Ford 4000 replacement instrument cluster

I have been working to replace broken parts on my new to me 1973 Ford 4000 and got an aftermarket instrument cluster to replace the old one which was shattered and nothing worked.

I was studying the diagrams and most of it is simple, but the voltage stabilizer (which Ford used for years) perplexed me. I removed the old one and dismantled it finding the burned out remnants of the wire wound element which is supposed to vibrate? forming a kind of voltage reducer.

I looked at the voltage stabilizer in the new cluster and it appeared crudely made compared the original. I measured the resistance across the two inputs and read zero ohms resistance. So I removed the stabilizer and opened it. There was nothing inside except a piece of wire bridging the two inputs. At first I thought that some parts suppliers scammed the manufacturer, but after removing the instrument cover and examining the temp and fuel gauges the answer became clear.

In the original instrument cluster the two gauges functioned as current meters using wire wrapped metal to heat the movement using thermal expansion to move the needle.

The new instrument cluster uses volt operated d'arsonval type movement operating a magnetic field to control the meter deflection. I had previously worried that I might mess up the instillation because of the stabilizer, but this type of setup I understand.

There is no need for the stabilizer so a dummy stabilizer was substituted to keep the layout the same. Now I can breath a sigh of relief.
 
Very interesting, I have always heard of
the voltage stabilizer but didn't know
what it really did. I never cared for
the original automotive style one piece
instrument panel, always seemed short
lived so converting mine to regular
gauges with the India market three
cylinder dashboard
a175208.jpg
 
On eBay it's a replacement for the Ford tractors originally built for the India market, in India they wanted to be able to use locally available standard gauges so all the Ford's built for that market were that way. They only cost around 20 bucks with shipping but take a few weeks. The two outer holes take 2" gauges and the center hole takes a standard 60mm tachometer
 
Rats. The word instillation should be changed to installation.

Markct,
I likes it. I think I may eventually do what you did and save the new one and use the old housing to make one like you have. I am considering switching to an alternator and the aftermarket uses a counter clockwise tach unless I go electronic.

What are you using tachometer/hour meter?
 
I'm using a tachometer I bought from
India, had to change the nut on the
tachometer cable but drive is the same,
haven't had a chance to install it all
yet last few weekends been hauling scrap
12 miles to the scrap yard and crushed
stone back from the quarry so didn't
want to tear it apart, temp gauge is
only thing working in my old cluster,
plan to put a volt meter on the left,
mechanical temperature on right and
buzzer and light for oil pressure,
already have an oil pressure gauge right
on the block by the oil light switch.
a175234.jpg
 

The conversion alternators on this site drive the tach in standard rotation to work with the factory gauges, I have them on two tractors but the tach's are fast by a few hundred rpm.
If you change to the tach drive coming from the oil pump drive you'll need a tack or complete gauge panel for the later 4600, 4610, 4630. The later clusters also take different senders.
I converted my 4000 to a Delco alternator and late model reverse tach many years ago, my 4000SU is going in the shop soon for major engine repairs (broken crank), I have a spare oil pump tach drive and will probably convert it as well.
 

I found them. Use the following search phrase: Ford tractor cluster tray.

Limit your price range to $15 low and $30 high.
 
Markct,

Thanks for the tachometer information for these cluster trays. I also found some David Brown tachometers, but they are 85mm rather than 60mm. One would have to make his own bezel for these or enlarge the hole if there is room.
These like the Mahindra Tachs don't have the gear/speed which I prefer. These DB tachs are $18-20 and are also from India.

In the mean time I have individually powered both the fuel gauge and water temperature gauge on the new cluster and both work without blowing the fuse or melting wires. I still have to check the calibration and I may disconnect the fuel gauge until it is not full since the needle goes to full and I want to make sure it is not pegging. These are much quicker to respond than the old gauges. It looks like I was correct about the voltage stabilizer not really being functional on these except as a common power junction.
 
It would be pretty tight to fit a bigger
tachometer don't think there's much
extra room. The mahindra tachometer from
India seemed nice and plain to me no
gear charts etc, it's interesting how
much more practical little things like
the gauges are for the India market
 
(quoted from post at 10:56:06 10/15/17)
Use the search phrase: Ford tractor cluster tray.

Thanks. This cluster tray will work well on my KD335 forklift built on a 3550. I don't like sitting on the steering gear so I'm moving the fuel tank down, the cowl forward and building a firewall between the engine and new seat. This cluster tray will give me more options for the tach and gauges.
 
To answer the original question.. The gauges in the aftermarket cluster do not need the voltage stabilizer as they are designed to work directly on 12volts. Guessing they put the little box on with a jumper just to make it look like the original.
 
I would guess that most of the original instrument clusters are worn out or broken like mine was. Someone suggested replacing broken or burned out voltage regulators with the solid state version such as an LM7805, LM7806 or equivalent.

If you are handy with a soldering iron all it takes is the requlator ($0.35-1.00)
2-4 filter caps (about $2-3 ) and maybe a resister and a heat sink. I have a bunch of LM317s which are variable with a few more passive components. If more current is required there are some that can carry three amps with a good heat sink.

Most people probably don't have the time or want to bother with this, but if someone wants to maintain or restore their original panel this is the way to go. I believe they have thermal shutdown protection so they won't char like my mechanical stabilizer did. I just don't know the exact voltage the original Ford stabilizer is supposed to maintain on the old tray.

By the way my aftermarket cluster is working fine and the fuel gauge needle floats around the full mark as I drive so it is not pegging. I have also added an electric oil pressure gauge outboard of the cluster. I don't like idiot lights because of the price of repairing engines today.
 
(quoted from post at 22:47:46 10/16/17) I would guess that most of the original instrument clusters are worn out or broken like mine was. Someone suggested replacing broken or burned out voltage regulators with the solid state version such as an LM7805, LM7806 or equivalent.

If you are handy with a soldering iron all it takes is the requlator ($0.35-1.00)
2-4 filter caps (about $2-3 ) and maybe a resister and a heat sink. I have a bunch of LM317s which are variable with a few more passive components. If more current is required there are some that can carry three amps with a good heat sink.

Most people probably don't have the time or want to bother with this, but if someone wants to maintain or restore their original panel this is the way to go. I believe they have thermal shutdown protection so they won't char like my mechanical stabilizer did. I just don't know the exact voltage the original Ford stabilizer is supposed to maintain on the old tray.

By the way my aftermarket cluster is working fine and the fuel gauge needle floats around the full mark as I drive so it is not pegging. I have also added an electric oil pressure gauge outboard of the cluster. I don't like idiot lights because of the price of repairing engines today.

The original voltage stabilizer switched the 12 volts on and off repeatedly so that the "average" output was somewhere in the 5 to 6 volt range, but folks have tried supplying a constant 6 volts to the original gauges and ended up burning up the gauges, so either the gauges need closer to 5 volts than 6, or the repeated on-off-on-off pattern of the voltage and current somehow kept the gauges cooler than a steady voltage does.
 
Sean,

Interesting reports regarding the constant voltage vs the original Ford chopper/voltage stabilizer. If I ever have time I might take a variable lm317 and set up a test bed with just the remnants of the fuel and temp gauges. I would start at around 4 volts and gradually raise it until something goes. If true there may be something related to the physical slower response time of the mechanical gauge which allows a cool down period. Although not exactly the same linear regulators are not nearly as efficient as efficient as switching regulators. This is Just a loose, but limited analogy.

The gauges also burn up if the contacts on the original stabilizer stick.
 
(quoted from post at 09:09:33 10/17/17) Sean,

Interesting reports regarding the constant voltage vs the original Ford chopper/voltage stabilizer. If I ever have time I might take a variable lm317 and set up a test bed with just the remnants of the fuel and temp gauges. I would start at around 4 volts and gradually raise it until something goes. If true there may be something related to the physical slower response time of the mechanical gauge which allows a cool down period. Although not exactly the same linear regulators are not nearly as efficient as efficient as switching regulators. This is Just a loose, but limited analogy.

The gauges also burn up if the contacts on the original stabilizer stick.
he reports of gauge failure when someone has tried the SS voltage regulators at around 5 volts are likely true. Why? Because the gauge (as has been said) functions on heat & the average value if the ICVR pulsed output is not 5 volts average, it is 5 volts rms, which equates to about 2.3 volts average. If you want the heating value, you need rms voltage, not average voltage.
 
Jmor,

That is a very intuitive observation. I am familiar with rms determination with sine waves, but did not consider it with regards to a square wave if that is what it is.
I have never seen an intact Ford stabilizer functioning or studied the wave form on an oscilloscope. I have two questions.

1. Does the frequency and duty cycle vary with the load? The load being the varying resistive response of the water temperature and fuel level sensors.
If it varies how do you calculate an RMS value on a non periodic function? I am just as rusty on this as the gauge components.

2. How does the mechanism being enclosed in a metal can affect the functioning with regards to heat buildup or does it really need to be considered in a non precision precision application? All I have seen is the charred remains so I don't know what the components look like or what they are made of.

.
 
(quoted from post at 11:39:19 10/17/17) Jmor,

That is a very intuitive observation. I am familiar with rms determination with sine waves, but did not consider it with regards to a square wave if that is what it is.[b:c8a0d9ea0b][color=red:c8a0d9ea0b]not square, more like 16% duty cycle.[/color:c8a0d9ea0b][/b:c8a0d9ea0b]
I have never seen an intact Ford stabilizer functioning or studied the wave form on an oscilloscope. I have two questions.

1. Does the frequency and duty cycle vary with the load? The load being the varying resistive response of the water temperature and fuel level sensors.[b:c8a0d9ea0b][color=red:c8a0d9ea0b]I say, not much if any detectable, since gauge & sensor current do not flow thru ICVR heating element.[/b:c8a0d9ea0b][/color:c8a0d9ea0b]
If it varies how do you calculate an RMS value on a non periodic function? [b:c8a0d9ea0b][color=red:c8a0d9ea0b] V-pk times the square root of (t-on/T-total)[/b:c8a0d9ea0b][/color:c8a0d9ea0b]I am just as rusty on this as the gauge components.

2. How does the mechanism being enclosed in a metal can affect the functioning with regards to heat buildup [b:c8a0d9ea0b][color=red:c8a0d9ea0b] In about the same way that cover on vs cover off affects the regulation in the old electromechanical VR used in generator charging systems.[/b:c8a0d9ea0b][/color:c8a0d9ea0b]or does it really need to be considered in a non precision precision application? All I have seen is the charred remains so I don't know what the components look like or what they are made of.

.
 
I just bought a brand new cluster on ebay for $79 and a cable for $11 and a VR for $30 with free shipping for my '65 3000. Unit fits most of
the thousand series fords with Zero on the right top side of the meter. Guy has lots of parts for sale and is a high volume, long time seller
with good feedback. We'll see how it works when it gets here. Neat thing about ebay is that you have a satisfaction guarantee on most if
not all sales and they do a good job handling your money.
 
Most of these instrument clusters look the same so they are all made by the same manufacturer or they copy the same photo. I saw only one that looked different on the backside. Interesting that they sell the mounting gasket separately. I may use some black silicone to make one in place. I think it will last longer if the mounting gasket material they use is the same as the sandwich seal that they use to the put housing and gauge together with.

I regret not getting an instrument cluster suitable for use with an alternator, but I am not sure whether to get one that has a tach drive on the alternator or getting one that uses the oil pump drive to operate the tach. At least with a an alternator I could dispense with the Lucas style voltage regulators which many people complain don't last long.

Unfortunately I have not seen an instrument cluster that employs an electronic tachometer which would solve the problem, but would require a magnetic or photo sensor to operate it.
The only way to employ one would be to use a tray which has separate gauges mounted the holes of a bezel.

The tach cables look like a good deal. I might get several as backups if you find them acceptable.
 
The unit is made for the alternator like was on my 4600, or the generator with the tach drive on the rear ( which I have on my '65 3000).
The OEM Lucas reg. is still working in my tractor at 5700 hours with 1 inframe I did because PO didn't replace hose from oil cleaner to
intake manifold. Otherwise no problems with the tractor, 8 speed Live PTO, after market PS I added. I just replaced the brushes in the gen
and figured for $30 and a reputable supplier, large quantity, I'd add it and a new cable to the really great price on the instrument cluster.

Add to that he was also selling 175/85D13, 6 ply tire and white spoke wheels for $61 with no shipping and in throwing that in the pot I got it
all for $187. That's what I'd expect to pay with shipping for the gauge cluster.
 

My first go round with the stabilizer (65 Ford Galaxy) I could not get it in my head how they worked so took the cluster to the table wired it up and tried to regulate it with a fixed resistor at 6V's the fuel gauge started smoking real fast. I them put the stabilizer back on and used a DSO to scope it. The original switched on/off smooth at a constant pattern I was using a gauge tester at a fixed value I am sure I adjust the resistance but did not pay much attention to the on/off time other it was a constant smooth switch pattern that changed with reistance . I then installed a cheap aftermarket stabilizer the pattern was all over the place switch on/off times varied a considerable amount at a fixed resistance. The gauge was very active and not stable at a fixed resistance.

My conclusion Ford went this rout to stabilize the gauge reading if not it does... Nothing to me is more aggravating that a active gauge that is sensitive to vehicle movement .

Back to my car I then went back to the factory repair manual and there it WUZZ in black and white a description on how the stabilizer worked :SHOCK:

Good post I enjoy reading Y'alls input even tho its out of my league...
 
Texasmark1,

Thanks for the clarification, but I don't know which tractor you bought the cluster for. If it is for an alternator equipped tractor why would you need a voltage regulator? You must have multiple tractors.

Hobo,NC,

Thanks for an actual explanation of your observed functioning of an original Ford voltage stabilizer and comparison with an aftermarket unit. Not everyone has access to a digital storage oscilloscope if that is what you meant by a DSO. Nothing is better than an actual report rather than all of the various comments from other websites. I doubt the other information is out of your league.
 
(quoted from post at 10:14:33 10/20/17) Texasmark1,

Thanks for the clarification, but I don't know which tractor you bought the cluster for. If it is for an alternator equipped tractor why would you need a separate voltage regulator? You must have multiple tractors.

Hobo,NC,

Thanks for an actual explanation of your observed testing of an original Ford voltage stabilizer and comparison with an aftermarket unit. Not everyone has access to a digital storage oscilloscope if that is what you meant by a DSO. Nothing is better than an actual report rather than all of the various comments from other websites. I doubt the other information is out of your league.

I had to go do a quick chore an ended the reply before I should have.

I meant to add that between Hobo,NC and JMOR I think we all have a much clearer understanding of how the Ford voltage stabilizer works and why they used it. These forums like on YDT are so much quicker than having to write individuals and companies years ago before the WWW. It also gives others access to see the same information that they may have wanted to know.

JMOR,
After your comments and input I finally went to your profile to see that you are a retired engineer. No wonder the thoroughness of you input. What kind of engineering did you do?
 
(quoted from post at 10:45:23 10/20/17)
(quoted from post at 10:14:33 10/20/17) Texasmark1,

Thanks for the clarification, but I don't know which tractor you bought the cluster for. If it is for an alternator equipped tractor why would you need a separate voltage regulator? You must have multiple tractors.

Hobo,NC,

Thanks for an actual explanation of your observed testing of an original Ford voltage stabilizer and comparison with an aftermarket unit. Not everyone has access to a digital storage oscilloscope if that is what you meant by a DSO. Nothing is better than an actual report rather than all of the various comments from other websites. I doubt the other information is out of your league.

I had to go do a quick chore an ended the reply before I should have.

I meant to add that between Hobo,NC and JMOR I think we all have a much clearer understanding of how the Ford voltage stabilizer works and why they used it. These forums like on YDT are so much quicker than having to write individuals and companies years ago before the WWW. It also gives others access to see the same information that they may have wanted to know.

JMOR,
After your comments and input I finally went to your profile to see that you are a retired engineer. No wonder the thoroughness of you input. What kind of engineering did you do?
ver 30 years, of design in military electronics, the type varied widely, but one of the fellows I worked with liked to say that 'we built better equipment to kill people with'. Much has saved our men's lives through lengthening their 'arms' reach, thus keeping them further from the bad guys.
 
Your thread title is "Re: Ford 4000 replacement instrument cluster". I was responding to that in offering a source for a replacement that
may save you a hundred bucks or whatever.

Doesn't matter the power source. If the device is in fact a voltage regulator be it a VDR (voltage dependent resistor) or a Zener diode, it
cares not the source of the voltage. It cares about protecting/regulating the circuit to which it is attached. I have one and my power
source is a DC generator with the tach drive on the rear.

The meters are wire wound resistors and apparently the deflection is controlled by current flow as a function of the resistance of the wire
(sensor plus meter) and applied voltage. If the applied voltage were allowed to roam all over the place as is the case with rpm driven power
sources, then your fuel and temp readings would be low at low rpms and high at high rpms.
 

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