Replacing injection pump on a 4000 ford tracttor


Nothing has to be set, when you put it back on align the notch in the pumps shaft with the pin in the gear, then align the scribed line on the pump flange with the zero mark on the back of the block plate.
The marks on the pump and block plate are at the outer most mounting flange.
Very simple pump to install.
 
(quoted from post at 09:04:13 10/12/17) Which 4000?
4 cylinder or 3 cylinder?

Ok not sure if your getting this But the pump is installed all bleed out of air but seems I have to push pump all the way clock ways to try even to get a almost start out of it Battery fully charged and new cables and starter
 
Several questions:

1. So this is a replacement pump?

2. Where did you get it?

3. Was it known to be from a good running tractor?

4. Was the tractor running with the old pump?
 
The only important question is below; three or four cylinder. The rest is covered well by others too.
 
(quoted from post at 11:21:11 10/12/17)
(quoted from post at 09:04:13 10/12/17) Which 4000?
4 cylinder or 3 cylinder?

Ok not sure if your getting this But the pump is installed all bleed out of air but seems I have to push pump all the way clock ways to try even to get a almost start out of it Battery fully charged and new cables and starter

Your initial post says that you are preparing to remove it.
 
(quoted from post at 18:58:54 10/12/17)
(quoted from post at 11:21:11 10/12/17)
(quoted from post at 09:04:13 10/12/17) Which 4000?
4 cylinder or 3 cylinder?

Ok not sure if your getting this But the pump is installed all bleed out of air but seems I have to push pump all the way clock ways to try even to get a almost start out of it Battery fully charged and new cables and starter

Your initial post says that you are preparing to remove it.

I thought so too, but that second post led me to believe that he had already replaced the pump and it wasn't working right so he was asking what he might have missed when he removed the old one, but I'm not 100% sure, but that is why I asked the questions that I did. Maybe he'll post back and clarify things for us.
 
Qkp
Let me try to clear this up Yes pump was already changed at the time of first post my friend ask me to check to see if I could of missed something on installing the used pump but as you guys had posted it was pretty cut and dry This unit only runs after you pull start it it will not start with just cranking it When my friend check into it he was told the problem was in the pump so that why it was changed
 
(quoted from post at 21:41:07 10/13/17) Qkp
Let me try to clear this up Yes pump was already changed at the time of first post my friend ask me to check to see if I could of missed something on installing the used pump but as you guys had posted it was pretty cut and dry This unit only runs after you pull start it it will not start with just cranking it When my friend check into it he was told the problem was in the pump so that why it was changed

OK, OK, what are you getting for cranking RPMs. A diesel will crank all day at just below the required RPMs without starting.
 
OK, pull starting will spin the engine faster than a starter can, even when the electrical system is at its peak operating conditions. So if it starts when pulling it and will not start via the starter either the compression is down enough that the starter will never be able to start it, or the electrical system is not operating at its peak... either marginal battery or starter, or dirty/corroded electrical connections somewhere in the circuit, or maybe even just the wrong gauge cables.

Have you tried jumping the tractor's battery directly to the starter? Have you tried jump starting it from a vehicle that has a good strong battery? Try both of these suggestions with a set of heavy duty jumper cables that can handle very high current loads and MAKE SURE THAT THE TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL. If it still won't spin the engine fast enough to start it with either of these tests then do a compression test.
 

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