1963 FORD 2000 Diesel 3 point Hitch

BENDB

Member
I have searched as much as I possibly can and can't find anything about my issue. I just purchased a 1963 Ford 2000 Diesel. The 3 point lift lever sits right about in the middle and will only move about an inch. The gannon will lift up if I move the lever but the lever pulls back down that one inch and lowers the gannon back down. The draft lever does not change the operation. I have looked through the manual and can not find anything to help me with the issue. I pulled the lift cover off and do not see anything that is binding!! I am lost and need some advise. Thanks in advance!!!
 
Would have been a good idea to take some pics while off. Are you saying the position control lever only moves about an inch and no more either way?
 
(quoted from post at 18:18:17 10/03/17) Would have been a good idea to take some pics while off. Are you saying the position control lever only moves about an inch and no more either way?

I still have it off. I can post some pics. Yes, it moves an inch either way. It wants to stay down and you have to pull hard to get it up that inch but then the hitch comes up and stays up if there is something holding the lever up.
 
/Users/Buchanan/Desktop/IMG_1760 2.JPG/Users/Buchanan/Desktop/IMG_1763 2.JPG/Users/Buchanan/Desktop/IMG_1761 2.JPG/Users/Buchanan/Desktop/IMG_1762 6.44.44 PM.JPG
 
Okay... I cant figure out how to post a picture. But yes, the lever only moves one inch (about). It wants to be down so you have to move the adjuster to "lock" the lever in the up position to hold an implement up and the back down that inch to lower it. The lever is very stiff and hard to pull but the implement does move up and down, just no in between!!
 
The lever should move all the way thru the quadrant. Can you move it all the way with the engine shut down. I have one that the lever seems to stiffen up at times while the engine is running. Did you check the dowel pin that rides against the cam on the rockshaft?
 

No, it won't even move with the lift cover off of the tractor. It sits pretty much right in the middle and only moves that inch.
 
Someone else might chime in tomorrow. Did you inspect every moving part good. I lifted a post hole digger one time and forgot I had a pin in the top hole. It put a lot of pressure against the big spring and it was hard to move the lever then. You could check to see if the spring draft control plunger is stuck. If it is a heatgun or a blow dryer might loosen it up a little.
 

I unscrewed the yoke (which was really easy) and pulled all of that out. I couldn't get the spring plate off of the plunger and that pin on it was corroded with rust. I don't know if all of that is supposed to slide on the plunger? Frustrating that I can't figure out how it is supposed to all work!! I'm a fool when it comes to hydraulics I guess!!
 
Box blade.
Gannon was/is? a Calif company that built a
lot of them. Maybe pioneered them. They also
sold a hydraulic setup - a pair of cylinders
and brackets - to give your 3 point down
pressure.
 
(quoted from post at 22:55:36 10/03/17)
No, it won't even move with the lift cover off of the tractor. It sits pretty much right in the middle and only moves that inch.

If it won't move with the lift cover off of the tractor and you can't see anything on the linkage on the underside of the top cover that is causing it to bind, then it sounds like the shaft and the tube that it passes through have rusted. You can start by trying to get as much penetrating oils as you can into the tube and work the handle back and forth over several days while adding more penetrating oil as you go. If that doesn't work then you will need to take things apart to free it up.
 

Did these pictures work?
a173803.jpg

a173804.jpg

a173805.jpg
 
The part that is circled moves down and hits that plate at the piston and that is the full movement of the lever!! Is something not hooked up correctly?? Any other pics I could take that would help everyone see good enough??
a173806.jpg
 
The circled part, I believe, normally has a spring over it. If so, then I don't see it as being something that would now stop valve movement any more so than if the spring were present.
My 2¢
 
The pics look good. You should be able to tell whats moving and whats not. Dont forget to check the dowel pin that rubs against the cam on the rockshaft. As to the lever movement a heatgun or blow dryer will loosen it some. Ive seen the lever broke off before so dont force anything.
 
While you have the cover off look at the pressure relief valve in the bottom of the case. It should be good as long as the weld bead at the top is still in place. No guarantee on that guess.
 
(quoted from post at 16:03:46 10/04/17) The pics look good. You should be able to tell whats moving and whats not. Dont forget to check the dowel pin that rubs against the cam on the rockshaft. As to the lever movement a heatgun or blow dryer will loosen it some. Ive seen the lever broke off before so dont force anything.

Okay, I tore all of the linkage out today and found nothing that appeared bent or misplaced. I put it all back together and same issue. That part circled in blue goes down and hits that plate to the right of it. It looks like it is supposed to so you don't push down on the shaft inside that cylinder. I need a pic of a different one to see if all the linkage is in there correctly!! My manuals do not show it good enough to tell! With that hydraulic cylinder removed, the lever moves freely. It is that circled part that hits and stops everything!!
 
Count the threads that are on the adjustment part that pushes that valve (lift control valve) in, write it down. Theres no spring there. Then adjust it some and see if it will get full movement. I think its supposed to bottom out just a little and still let the lever move through. Someone on here might be able to tell you the adjustment procedure. i know that the arms are supposed to be in a certain position before you start. I also know you can adjust that same threaded part thru the pto shift lever cover if its off some. Dont put too much oil in it. I put a new cam pin in mine and it changed the lever so that the arms wont go all the way down and if I raise lever all the way up I can hear the pump groaning. thats not good for the pump and its easy to forget when your minds on something besides the lever.
 
(quoted from post at 20:29:21 10/04/17) Count the threads that are on the adjustment part that pushes that valve (lift control valve) in, write it down. Theres no spring there. Then adjust it some and see if it will get full movement. I think its supposed to bottom out just a little and still let the lever move through. Someone on here might be able to tell you the adjustment procedure. i know that the arms are supposed to be in a certain position before you start. I also know you can adjust that same threaded part thru the pto shift lever cover if its off some. Dont put too much oil in it. I put a new cam pin in mine and it changed the lever so that the arms wont go all the way down and if I raise lever all the way up I can hear the pump groaning. thats not good for the pump and its easy to forget when your minds on something besides the lever.

I adjusted it all the way up and al the way down and no change in the lever!!! I found an adjustment procedure and the lever is supposed to be in certain positions and it won't go where it is supposed to be!!!! This is HORRIBLE! :twisted:
 
It has? to be the lever binding. Theres a half moon key in the position control lever shaft, Wondering if it fell out and causing binding. Previous owner may have given up. When you move the lever can you tell if its starts tightening but will still move a little? I didnt check my manual one time before tearing into that lever and quadrant assembly and about beat it to death. I finally found out the key was holding it. Its supposed to come out by taking the nut off from the inside. you could take that Quadrant assembly out and then you would know if thats the problem. I think you can take out the four bolts that hold the quadrant to the case and then you would be able to see if it will move. Not being bolted down you could see if that is indeed the problem. You might want to get your gaskets and felt washer for the big spring first. I dont know if you leave it out in the weather or not but cover is good for everything.
 
It has? to be the lever binding. Theres a half moon key in the position control lever shaft, Wondering if it fell out and causing binding. Previous owner may have given up. When you move the lever can you tell if its starts tightening but will still move a little? I didnt check my manual one time before tearing into that lever and quadrant assembly and about beat it to death. I finally found out the key was holding it. Its supposed to come out by taking the nut off from the inside. you could take that Quadrant assembly out and then you would know if thats the problem. I think you can take out the four bolts that hold the quadrant to the case and then you would be able to see if it will move. Not being bolted down you could see if that is indeed the problem. You might want to get your gaskets and felt washer for the big spring first. I dont know if you leave it out in the weather or not but cover is good for everything.
 
(quoted from post at 23:52:01 10/04/17)
Does that inner part hit the metal plate?
an't give an absolute answer of no, but I say highly unlikely. Since parts are missing (so it appears), I expect that it was assembled/adjusted incorrectly by previous owner/mechanic. To help you isolate your binding, removing the 4 quadrant bolts is a good plan. Further, simply remove that pin (~2 inches left of your blue circle) and operate linkage & observe. I expect that adjustments are not right if that sleeve is hitting plate at control valve.
 
I am still trying to upload video but it is impossible. The file is to big on a 10 second video!! I had the lever assembly off and it is not binding. It is like there is something wrong with the "workings" of the linkage. Is that circled part supposed to come in contact with that metal plate? If it is.....Is there supposed to be a breakover at some other part of the linkage for the lever to continue to move?
 
(quoted from post at 06:45:09 10/05/17)
(quoted from post at 23:52:01 10/04/17)
Does that inner part hit the metal plate?
an't give an absolute answer of no, but I say highly unlikely. Since parts are missing (so it appears), I expect that it was assembled/adjusted incorrectly by previous owner/mechanic. To help you isolate your binding, removing the 4 quadrant bolts is a good plan. Further, simply remove that pin (~2 inches left of your blue circle) and operate linkage & observe. I expect that adjustments are not right if that sleeve is hitting plate at control valve.

With the Valve out of there I can operate the linkage full motion. I will try and get a few more pics and load them on here.
 
With that little shaft out this part circled in yellow hits
the cylinder housing!!! So.... the blue circles part hits
first, with that removed this little rod hits!!!
a173887.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 14:45:09 10/05/17)
(quoted from post at 23:52:01 10/04/17)
Does that inner part hit the metal plate?
an't give an absolute answer of no, but I say highly unlikely. Since parts are missing (so it appears), I expect that it was assembled/adjusted incorrectly by previous owner/mechanic. To help you isolate your binding, removing the 4 quadrant bolts is a good plan. Further, simply remove that pin (~2 inches left of your blue circle) and operate linkage & observe. I expect that adjustments are not right if that sleeve is hitting plate at control valve.
JMOR, I think hes working on a different model than the one in your pic. I dont see any parts missing. If you look at everything moving it slowly you should see whats is stopping it. Its possible that square thing that slides on the round shaft could be binding. You could take a big screwdriver and move the spring mechanisms and see if they are binding but dont scratsh any smooth surfaces. Did you put the yoke back on ? It might need to be on.
 
(quoted from post at 10:30:52 10/05/17)
(quoted from post at 14:45:09 10/05/17)
(quoted from post at 23:52:01 10/04/17)
Does that inner part hit the metal plate?
an't give an absolute answer of no, but I say highly unlikely. Since parts are missing (so it appears), I expect that it was assembled/adjusted incorrectly by previous owner/mechanic. To help you isolate your binding, removing the 4 quadrant bolts is a good plan. Further, simply remove that pin (~2 inches left of your blue circle) and operate linkage & observe. I expect that adjustments are not right if that sleeve is hitting plate at control valve.
JMOR, I think hes working on a different model than the one in your pic. I dont see any parts missing. If you look at everything moving it slowly you should see whats is stopping it. Its possible that square thing that slides on the round shaft could be binding. You could take a big screwdriver and move the spring mechanisms and see if they are binding but dont scratsh any smooth surfaces. Did you put the yoke back on ? It might need to be on.
won't say as an absolute, but earlier model such as NAA, that have no spring in that position, also have no sleeve as he has circled in blue. So, I ask, what is purpose of that sleeve? Also, you might want to look at CNH parts site for the exploded view of parts.
 
What is the external link? I cant find anything relating to it. I found a youtube video of a lady taking the lift plate off a 9n but the linkage is just slightly different.
 
The yellow circled pin senses piston leakdown. When the piston pushes it enough it will correct position. That action is the jump that you see when it leaks down enough to make a correction. The faster it leaks down the more corrections it makes. That circled blue hollow end of the position control valve just keeps the ball-ended shaft in place. You might want to start a new thread, so a pro can get you on the straight and narrow. Steiners has a video on repair of this system I read somewhere here.
 
I see the yoke is still off you might want to temporarily screw it back on till you get a felt washer. you might need that triangle washer with the pin also. The yellow circled pin senses piston position and corrects leakdown when the piston pushes it. I think my emails been blocked about a repair video. It starts with ste. You might want to start a new thread on this so you get fresh input. These are pretty simple systems when you know them well. I'm pretty green on this. I think someone on here knows these pretty good. Theres a good post by ZANE in the archives on this. put it in the search bar, click and then when it resets click again.
 
(quoted from post at 10:30:11 10/05/17) With that little shaft out this part circled in yellow hits
the cylinder housing!!! So.... the blue circles part hits
first, with that removed this little rod hits!!!
a173887.jpg
everal things in the photo look wrong!
Sorry I didn't see photo earlier. Reference my marks on your photo as you read.
7mf5mk7.jpg

Toggle "T" is in the Position-control position, yet, the swivel "SW" is clearly in control of the linkage circled. This should not be the case. This may indicate that spring/bolt is adjusted such that length "P" is too long. Measure & compare with specified length. If that length is ok, then the draft link between the big spring plunger and the part at top of "P" arrow may be bent (very hard to detect & verify). When in position control the "SW" should be free on the sleeve sliding thru it, with not contact at either end of "SW". Clearly not the case now. If this were correct, then the gap between the control arm pad and position control spring (upper right corner of your circle) would be closed & nothing like the 1/4 inch or more pictured. "P" appears so lone as to move the "SW" and the control are too far toward the cylinder. You need to find out why. Make measurement as a start.
 

I might have figured it out. Yesterday when I took the quadrant lever shaft out i had to pull it through the inside if the case because one of the linkage arms was "permanently" attached to it. I am thinking now that the "permanently" was rust holding it on there and making it unable to rotate! Should I have been able to take the one castle nut off the inside and slide the shaft out? If so, W-D 40 and some heat could cure the issue???!!
 
" Should I have been able to take the one castle nut off the inside and slide the shaft out?" No, item 84 would need to be removed as well. My dwg is 8N, but the difference in this area is length of 84, so so should get the idea.
Q1McgQ9.jpg

This is NAA, also very similar in this linkage.
Kjho1Yr.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 17:20:28 10/05/17)
So the part I circled stays on the shaft and does not have to move freely?
4384.jpg
o, the shaft will slide out of it & it does need to move freely.
 

So if it is not moving freely then that is most likely my biggest issue??? Free that and then move to adjusting it all?? I can't thank you guys enough on here for helping me out on all this!!!
 

If I remember right 84 came off but 70 stayed on and was rust welded to it. Both of them should turn freely? I am at work until tomorrow morning so I can't re-disassemble right now!!
 
I took the castle nut off and that first shaft came off but the next one over to the right is the one that doesn't budge!!
a173918.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 17:49:50 10/05/17) I took the castle nut off and that first shaft came off but the next one over to the right is the one that doesn't budge!!
a173918.jpg
rm 70 is not going to slip off the shaft toward the inside. Look at the picture & see the flange on the shaft. Shaft will have to slip out of 70 arm , pulling shaft toward inside of cover casting.
 
(quoted from post at 14:55:14 10/05/17)
(quoted from post at 17:49:50 10/05/17) I took the castle nut off and that first shaft came off but the next one over to the right is the one that doesn't budge!!
a173918.jpg
rm 70 is not going to slip off the shaft toward the inside. Look at the picture & see the flange on the shaft. Shaft will have to slip out of 70 arm , pulling shaft toward inside of cover casting.

But it should rotate freely on the shaft .... correct?
 
All right, nothing like teaming up on it. Dont forget to screw your yoke backon before adjusting. I also dont know how important that rusted pin is. The felt washer keeps condensation out. how good are those rockshaft bushings?
 
(quoted from post at 17:55:21 10/05/17) All right, nothing like teaming up on it. Dont forget to screw your yoke backon before adjusting. I also dont know how important that rusted pin is. The felt washer keeps condensation out. how good are those rockshaft bushings?

Which rusted pin are you talking about and which ones are the rock shaft bushings? I ordered a plunger, and the spring plate and spring seat.
 
The bushings are the ones that the rockshaft ride on in the case. I cant remember how hard they are to come out. The rusted pin is the one you referred to at the beginning of the post where the yoke spring goes against the case. In one of your last pics it looked to me like you had the spring yoke off but I didnt see the end that it screws to in the pic. Am I just missing it in the pic?
 
(quoted from post at 17:55:21 10/05/17) All right, nothing like teaming up on it. Dont forget to screw your yoke backon before adjusting. I also dont know how important that rusted pin is. The felt washer keeps condensation out. how good are those rockshaft bushings?

That felt washer will reduce the amount of water that can run in but won't stop any condensation.
 
I knew it was for something like that. moist air gets in somewhere, probably rockshaft bushings. Whats the best way for him to get those bushings out showcrop? BENDB, as long as they arent too bad you can run em. I just dont like to come back to something when its right there in front.
 
(quoted from post at 08:29:34 10/06/17) I knew it was for something like that. moist air gets in somewhere, probably rockshaft bushings. Whats the best way for him to get those bushings out showcrop? BENDB, as long as they arent too bad you can run em. I just dont like to come back to something when its right there in front.
f it were my tractor, knowing how big that job is, I wouldn't mess with the bushings unless I knew they were no longer usable. my 2¢
 
(quoted from post at 05:29:34 10/06/17) I knew it was for something like that. moist air gets in somewhere, probably rockshaft bushings. Whats the best way for him to get those bushings out showcrop? BENDB, as long as they arent too bad you can run em. I just dont like to come back to something when its right there in front.

Moist air gets in right through that felt washer. I would not advise replacing the bushings unless I had a lot of play in the rock shaft.
 
(quoted from post at 05:29:34 10/06/17) I knew it was for something like that. moist air gets in somewhere, probably rockshaft bushings. Whats the best way for him to get those bushings out showcrop? BENDB, as long as they arent too bad you can run em. I just dont like to come back to something when its right there in front.

Bushings seem fine...... The rust weld on this shaft is unbelievable though....Heat and PB Blaster hasn't touched it yet!!
 
(quoted from post at 15:54:26 10/06/17)
(quoted from post at 05:29:34 10/06/17) I knew it was for something like that. moist air gets in somewhere, probably rockshaft bushings. Whats the best way for him to get those bushings out showcrop? BENDB, as long as they arent too bad you can run em. I just dont like to come back to something when its right there in front.

Bushings seem fine...... The rust weld on this shaft is unbelievable though....Heat and PB Blaster hasn't touched it yet!!

I suppose that weld could be a good way to describe it. The build-up in pressure when steel and/or cast iron is tremendous when there is a confined space, because the volume that rust occupies is so much greater than the steel that is gone.
 
That part is still soaking in ATF/Acetone......One more question. Where are the hydraulic filters supposed to be located on this? I can find info on the 1965 and newer but this is a 1963 4 cyl. diesel. I see 2 tubes in the right side front portion under the lift cover but i do not see any filters??? Thanks again!!
 
(quoted from post at 16:47:46 10/07/17) That part is still soaking in ATF/Acetone......One more question. Where are the hydraulic filters supposed to be located on this? I can find info on the 1965 and newer but this is a 1963 4 cyl. diesel. I see 2 tubes in the right side front portion under the lift cover but i do not see any filters??? Thanks again!!

To ALL that helped.........Thank you very much!!!! Son of a Gun works like a champ now!!!!
 
(quoted from post at 19:52:15 10/08/17)
(quoted from post at 16:47:46 10/07/17) That part is still soaking in ATF/Acetone......One more question. Where are the hydraulic filters supposed to be located on this? I can find info on the 1965 and newer but this is a 1963 4 cyl. diesel. I see 2 tubes in the right side front portion under the lift cover but i do not see any filters??? Thanks again!!

To ALL that helped.........Thank you very much!!!! Son of a Gun works like a champ now!!!!
reat! No filters.
 
(quoted from post at 17:10:06 10/08/17)
(quoted from post at 19:52:15 10/08/17)
(quoted from post at 16:47:46 10/07/17) That part is still soaking in ATF/Acetone......One more question. Where are the hydraulic filters supposed to be located on this? I can find info on the 1965 and newer but this is a 1963 4 cyl. diesel. I see 2 tubes in the right side front portion under the lift cover but i do not see any filters??? Thanks again!!

To ALL that helped.........Thank you very much!!!! Son of a Gun works like a champ now!!!!
reat! No filters.


Awesome THANKS again!!
 

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