Ford 4000 electrical help

redneckdiver

New User
A few years ago, some kind of short in my tractor (72 Ford 4000 diesel) caused the battery to melt down and burn up the whole engine compartment. I replaced all the fuel lines and have it running again with the battery going straight to the starter through a toggle switch. I've purchased an alternator, but it did not come with a wiring harness. The voltage regulator is all burned up. I've also purchased a new set of gauges for it as the old ones were burned/melted. I have a couple of questions around hooking up the alternator and gauges.

1. Is a separate voltage regulator required when your alternator already has one?

2. Does anyone have a schematic of how to run new wires with and/or without a separate regulator? I have a couple of service manuals, but neither cover electrical connections.

3. Does anyone have documentation of how all the sensors should be connected to the gauges?

Thanks!

Chad
 
If the alternator has an internal V.R. no need for another one. As for wiring it up we need to know what brand alternator it is. If it is the common 1 wire then you run the wire to the amp gauge and that is pretty much it. If you have a Delco 10SI you need the wire going to the amp gauge and then the 2 wire plug where the #1 wire will got to the switch the side that is hot when on and the #2 to the charge stud on the alternator
 
$30 for an I&T FO-31 manual from this
site. Get one.
I would also buy a new wiring harness from
this site and rewire it for an alternator.
When you get them post back and we'll help
you wire it.
 
(quoted from post at 11:55:18 09/28/17) $30 for an I&T FO-31 manual from this
site. Get one.
I would also buy a new wiring harness from
this site and rewire it for an alternator.
When you get them post back and we'll help
you wire it.

I have that I&T manual. Unless I somehow missed it, I didn't see any wiring diagram or explanation of where all the sensor wires go. As for the harness, somehow my conversion kit didn't have one, although the description says it should. I waited to long to find that out, so now YT isn't going to just send me one. For some reason the pre-1965 conversion wiring harness is sold separately, but not the post-1965. Does anyone know if that pre-1965 harness could be used, or if somebody else sells a post-1965? The conversion kit that I bought is PN 6X10300ALTH.
 
The I&T FO-31 manual has two schematic/wiring diagram drawings. Fig. 160 on page 56 is for US built "C" serial number tractors, and Fig. 161 on page 57 is for European built "A" and "B" serial number tractors. It doesn't show you where, physically, on the tractor the various sensors/senders are located, but the temperature sender is on the front of the head near the thermostat, the oil sender is on the left side of the engine block just forward of the oil filter, the fuel gauge sender is located on top of the fuel tank behind the instrument cluster, and the wire for the charge warning lamp originally went to the "WL" terminal on the voltage regulator, but since your generator and voltage regulator have been replaced with an alternator that has an internal voltage regulator you will have to determine how the charge lamp should be wired depending on which alternator it has.
 
(quoted from post at 15:45:04 09/29/17) The I&T FO-31 manual has two schematic/wiring diagram drawings. Fig. 160 on page 56 is for US built "C" serial number tractors, and Fig. 161 on page 57 is for European built "A" and "B" serial number tractors. It doesn't show you where, physically, on the tractor the various sensors/senders are located, but the temperature sender is on the front of the head near the thermostat, the oil sender is on the left side of the engine block just forward of the oil filter, the fuel gauge sender is located on top of the fuel tank behind the instrument cluster, and the wire for the charge warning lamp originally went to the "WL" terminal on the voltage regulator, but since your generator and voltage regulator have been replaced with an alternator that has an internal voltage regulator you will have to determine how the charge lamp should be wired depending on which alternator it has.
s Sean says, & without generator & VR, you will probably want to buy wire, terminal & crimper tool and make your own. I can provide you with one of the schematics that Sean reference which has been marked-up/modified for an internally regulated alternator, for a diesel thousand series 3 cyl tractor. It looks good, but I have never applied it, so no guarantee.
 
If your harness is in decent shape it is
very easy to eliminate the original vreg.
I suggested a new one because so many of
them are all boogered up, cut, spliced, etc.
Here is how to rewire an original harness:
There are 5 wires plus a black ground going
to your regulator. Three big fat ones and
two little ones. Connect the 3 big ones
together. Then connect the two little ones
together. Reconnect the ground to the body
somewhere.
That is it in a nutshell.
I cut the tape off the harness and solder
those connections. Then I put heat shrink on
my solder joints and rewrap with old
fashioned black friction tape. Makes a nice
clean job of it.
Follow the link below to hook them to your
alternator.
There is a easy diagram to hook it up and
some good info on delco alternators there.
Just make a short pigtail to go from #2
terminal on the alt to the big terminal. It
doesn't have to go all the way back as
shown.
Click here
 

Since the tractor burnt similar to my 72 4000SU there's probably nothing left of the wiring harness.

One would be better off purchasing a harness from this site than to try and make up a wiring harness.
Harness C9NN14A103B for $47.35 is the correct harness, then make up the connections needed for the alternator conversion.

The alternator conversion kit does not come with a conversion harness for these models nor does it need one, it should have came with some crimp connectors to make up the connections needed.
A 3-4 post terminal block located where the old regular was makes a nicer looking conversion.

Old: these models didn't have amp gauges.

Ultradog: that's a good link and photo of the wiring digram, like you I simply jump the #2 wire back to the big post on the alternator
 
DS,
Here is a photo of that same wiring harness
from YT. The close-up shows where I cut into
it to eliminate the connections for the
vreg.
Then taped it with friction tape.
I think it makes a nice job of it.
a173382.jpg

a173383.jpg
 

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