Need Some Help Identifying a 4000 series please

Hello, I just acquired this tractor from a friend. He has has it for the past ten years and really hasn't used it. He got it from the school in town who used it to move snow so it has loaded rears and a concrete ballast on the 3pt. They got rid of it because number 3 cylinder has low compression but it had been sitting for over 12 years in their possession inside a garage. I am hoping it's a stuck valve or something easy but who knows. Plan is to get it cleaned up and bring it into the shop before I go crazy with anything. It runs now but obviously isn't making good power and needs a carb rebuild and the low compression problem to be diagnosed and fixed.

The tractor is labeled at a Ford 4110 Utility but it definitely has been painted, poorly I might add and I am having trouble decoding the model number.

I pulled the canopy off and will likely be getting rid of it becuase I dont need or want it, are these valuable, I don't want to scrap something that someone else may have a use for? It's a Curtis all metal top with fiberglass front.

Any help would be appreciated, it has 2200hrs and seems decent, brakes and clutch aren't bad and the loader is very tight with no broken or missing zerks.

Thanks for any insight!
Steve

Looks more like a 3400 with 730 loader. Has drum brakes and soft nose. From build date has lovered hood which we cant see.

well, if you blow up the picture it reads

34023C which is a 3400

C40 (340) 3400 Utility 1965-1975
2 ? Gasoline
3 ? Live 540 rpm
C - 8x2 speed manual (4x1 + hi/low)

unit number looks like 6D18B
which would be 1966 April 18 second shift

Upper grill says it has early wrap around lower grill - corresponds with 1966 build date.
Truno,
Welcome. Those are very good machines.
Hope you don't have to drop the pan. A bit of wrenching on those to do that.

I find it interesting how many people just stuck some model sticker on these tractors, thus labeling them WRONG.

Thank you all very much for the information and responses! it being a 3400 and not a 4000 series certainly makes the serial number far less confusing. I was hesitant to believe it was labeled correctly based on the quality of the brush on paint job.... But truly is funny how people just don't care what sticker they throw on after a rustoleum restoration.

Once I get it pressure washed and degreased I plan to drain the tires (they're leaking and rotting the wheels, but I won't replace until I know what's going on with the engine) I just don't want Calcium Chloride leaking all over the shop floor if she's in their for the winter.

From there I'll rebuild the carb, and pull the skins off to start taking a look at the motor. Start high and work my way low, really hoping I can get away with just pulling the head and that I don't have an issue with the rings/pistons something that would require dropping the pan but we'll see.

If I can get it back together and running nicely I just want to use it to pull a small hog and some other implements around my place, more of a leisure machine than anything else to be honest but we'll see.

Thank you again for the help, I'll post up more once I get it into the shop but this is a backburner project so it may be a few weeks.

One of my neighbor's bought a 4000 industrial that was actually a 641.

Sad to see, but seems common.

Definitely a 3400 front axle. Main differences between the 4110 and the 3400 were the front axle and the engine displacement/hp.

Ok just wanted to follow up. I had a little time today so I degreased and pressure washed the tractor a bit, and wow does that faded yellow brush on paint job look like garbage! I greased the machine and had a little time to piddle about with the engine but it was at my buddies shop so I didn't take it apart too far yet.

I pulled the valve-cover and everything was clean and nice, no sludge or abnormal wear.

When I first got the machine a few days ago we regapped the plugs and cleaned the points so it would fire. On the hood someone had written 30, 80, and 90 for corresponding cylinder compression so my assumption was the 3rd cylinder was dead, but that was written by a town employee over 22 years ago so I never should have trusted it from the get go.

I compression tested the machine dry and cold and got 112, 117, and 119. So my guess is back in the day a valve or ring got stuck and has since worked itself free.... or the town guys just didnt want to deal with a machine that had been sitting for 10 years and told their supervisor it was beyond repair.

In any case I was happy about that, next question was why it was running so terribly, it struggled to move up grades in anything but 1st and 2nd gear. I've got a carb kit ordered but it still seemed like something was up.

Started swapping plugs and wires around and turns out the number one cylinder plug was dead, ran to NAPA and got some plugs and she purred right up.

The carb is still gunked and will need to be gone through but for now I dumped some fuel treatment and marvel in the tank with some fresh fuel and put some additives in the oil.

Plan is to get it into my shop and this winter start going through it. I'll at the very least do carb rebuild, water pump, thermostat, hoses, all fluid and filters, and a new gauge cluster. In the spring I'll get some new tires for it, I drained the calcium chloride out but the inner rims are shot and the tires are severely dry rotted. This tractor will be used on my property for some light brush hogging and to run a 3pt chipper.

Two questions I still have are do the 3400s have parts interchangeability with all other 3000 series tractors as far as engine components are concerned?

And does anyone step up in rear tire size since I need new ones anyways?

Thanks again to everyone for the help this far, this forum is a wealth of knowledge.

Good post.
It sounds like you have a decent tractor
there.
In addition to doing the things you
mentioned I would go through the fuel
system. There are usually 4 (four) fuel
filters on those. First is a screen on top
of the fuel shut off at the bottom of the
tank. Second is under the cap on the fuel
pump - on the timing cover behind the fan.
Third is a brass screen in the sediment bowl
behind the carb and last but not always is a
screen in the brass fitting where the fuel
line goes into the carb.
Clean them all.
Put a new power steering filter in it and
replace the ps fluid by purging the old
stuff out as you add new. Use 134D oil -
Hytrans or UTF - in trans, rear end, loader
and ps system.
Yes, except for the front axle your tractor
is a 3000. What size tires do you have on
the rear now?
If you get rid of the fluid in your rears
your tractor will be essentially worthless
for no traction. Plan on adding ballast of
some type - washer fluid, used anti freeze,
more CaCl or beet juice. Or cast iron
weights.
If you have more questions start a new
thread as many will not see further replies
to this one.

(reply to post at 16:12:01 09/27/17)Two questions I still have are do the 3400s have parts interchangeability with all other 3000 series tractors as far as engine components are concerned?

And does anyone step up in rear tire size since I need new ones anyways?

Click to expand...

The 3400 uses the same engine, transmission and rear axle as the 3000 ag chassis tractor, as well as some other models in the 3000 series. The only thing that is really different is the front axle and steering linkage. The steering column itself is the same.

As for your question on rear tire sizes, you can generally go one size wider in rear tires than what is stock for any particular rim size and still have them work on the same rims. Anything more would require wider rims. A previous owner may have already done that though, so it would be best to measure the width of the rims before you order wider tires.