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Ford 5000 clutch

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Robbz28

New User
I need help, I picked up a 74 ford 5000 with the 8 speed trans and two speed pto. The clutch pedal is out of adjustment and I can barely slip it into gear without grinding. I am assuming I need to replace the clutch and pressure plate and all that good stuff. I have seen multiple options for clutches and wanted to know if anyone knows which is the right setup? I'd like to have the right stuff on hand before I split the tractor.

Thanks
 
I thought I had the answer, until I went in and looked at the parts book. My answer before I did that was this: 25 spline without dual power,
and 10 spline with. Now then, after checking the parts book, they show two different input shafts, one for the straight 8-speed trans, and
one with dual power. Problem is, the part number for the dual power shaft does not match the part number for the input shaft when you go to
the dual power page. Can anyone else solve this mystery?
 
(quoted from post at 14:25:56 09/10/17) I thought I had the answer, until I went in and looked at the parts book. My answer before I did that was this: 25 spline without dual power,
and 10 spline with. Now then, after checking the parts book, they show two different input shafts, one for the straight 8-speed trans, and
one with dual power. Problem is, the part number for the dual power shaft does not match the part number for the input shaft when you go to
the dual power page. Can anyone else solve this mystery?
Click to expand...

Mine isn't the dual power just has the two speed PTO, so maybe year model there was a difference?
 
I don't believe the PTO should have anything to do with it.

I think the safest thing to do would be to roll the thing apart first and see what you have, because there's two other options to consider
and that is a 13" clutch versus the standard 12". In addition, it could even have a metallic clutch in it if someone in the past decided that
was the way to go (metallic disc was factory around 1970 or so for a couple of years). Also, depending on where you source the clutch from,
they might want the old one for a core anyway.

This would be easy if it were a 7600/7610 with dual power, but I'm afraid on a 5000, there's a few too many different options.
 
(quoted from post at 16:41:56 09/10/17) I don't believe the PTO should have anything to do with it.

I think the safest thing to do would be to roll the thing apart first and see what you have, because there's two other options to consider
and that is a 13" clutch versus the standard 12". In addition, it could even have a metallic clutch in it if someone in the past decided that
was the way to go (metallic disc was factory around 1970 or so for a couple of years). Also, depending on where you source the clutch from,
they might want the old one for a core anyway.

This would be easy if it were a 7600/7610 with dual power, but I'm afraid on a 5000, there's a few too many different options.
Click to expand...

Well it seems the only real issue is the splines, this tractor isn't going to be used very hard, bush hogging will be the heaviest task. So a rigid 12" clutch should fit. I can order both and send one back. That's my current thinking.
 

With the tractor being a 74 model it could have a 12" or 13" clutch.
My 67 5000 had a spring hub 12" clutch with 10 splines.
The only clutches I've seen for these tractor with 25 spline hubs was for SOS trans.

It's best to break the tractor apart and see what you have first verses ordering parts and having to send some back.

There's 12" sprung hub full face organic, 12" solid hub full face organic, 12" sprung hub metallic, 12" solid hub metallic all for 10 spline.
Same choices again for 13" 10 spline.
Plus the flywheel could be grooved and need refaced, so it's likely you won't save much time preordering a clutch.

Lucky for me there's a clutch rebuilder 45 miles from here, I can pull the tractor apart this afternoon, be at their place in the morning and be putting the tractor back together with the correct clutch tomorrow afternoon.
 
(quoted from post at 17:13:17 09/11/17) As I recall, most of the 5000s I worked on (which did not have dual power) used the fine spline (25) input shaft.
Click to expand...

If I was to lay odds this one is a 25 spline but who knows, my issue is time. The shop I have to use I kind of need to be in and out as fast as possible as to not be in their way. Put it in Friday night and have if out Sunday evening. So having the right parts on hand will save time. If the flywheel is grooved that's not an issue, there's local places that can slick that up.
 
It should be the 25 spline. However, I would prefer to split it first. Sheet of 1/4" plate under the engine and split it on any flat piece of
ground will do... Just situate the steel so you got 5' to roll the front ahead... 3 hours will do the job on that thing if you don't need to
cut the flywheel.

Rod
 

After doing some checking it looks like I got my clutches mixed up.
On my 4000 the small shaft goes to the clutch and the larger shaft drives the pto.
On a 5000 it's the opposite so the larger 25 spline shaft connects to the clutch disc.

Does anyone know if the flywheels are drilled for the different clutch sizes.
My manual says early models could have 12 or 13" clutch and late models with metallic clutches where 11".
 

After doing some checking it looks like I got my clutches mixed up.
On my 4000 the small shaft goes to the clutch and the larger shaft drives the pto.
On a 5000 it's the opposite so the larger 25 spline shaft connects to the clutch disc.

Does anyone know if the flywheels are drilled for the different clutch sizes.
My manual says early models could have 12 or 13" clutch and late models with metallic clutches where 11".
 
I've never seen a flywheel drilled for both 12 and 13" clutches. It's one or the other.

To the OP: What you could do is pull the starter out and look inside the hole with a strong flashlight and flexible mirror. A 13" flywheel
will have pressure plate attaching holes right near the edge. You should also be able to tell spline count (coarse vs fine), as well as rigid
vs dampened disc.

If I were a betting man, I'd guess that you have a 12", 25 spline, rigid organic disc.
 
Ok, so read this a bit... Looks like the 13" clutch ended in 69... so yours being a 74, it should have the 12" disc. For an 8 speed it should
have the 25 spline. Saying that, I bought a kit for mine last year and got the wrong disc in the kit... and I split it again 2 weeks ago for
a pilot bearing problem and can't remember what it has.... but I think it's the 25 spline, non dampened disc.
I would urge you to split it first or order both.... If I think of it in the morning I'll go see what broken parts I have laying around..

Rod
 

While you have it split, plan on a new rear main seal, Transmission input seal, PTO release bearing, and pilot bushing/bearing. These take very little more time.
 
(quoted from post at 04:33:11 09/12/17)
While you have it split, plan on a new rear main seal, Transmission input seal, PTO release bearing, and pilot bushing/bearing. These take very little more time.
Click to expand...

Been a long time since I was deep into my 5000 but IIRC isn't there a coolant freeze plug behind the clutch and block plate on the back of the block?
 
(quoted from post at 20:23:34 09/11/17) I've never seen a flywheel drilled for both 12 and 13" clutches. It's one or the other.

To the OP: What you could do is pull the starter out and look inside the hole with a strong flashlight and flexible mirror. A 13" flywheel
will have pressure plate attaching holes right near the edge. You should also be able to tell spline count (coarse vs fine), as well as rigid
vs dampened disc.

If I were a betting man, I'd guess that you have a 12", 25 spline, rigid organic disc.
Click to expand...

This is an excellent tip, thank you. Thank you all for the advice. I'll let you know what I end up with. Also thanks for the tip about changing the seals, I had read that in another post and planned on doing it all while I'm at it.
 
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