Ford 4500 kingpin replacement mystery shims

yolner

New User
Hi all,

First of all I wanted to share something I found while looking for replacement king pins for my 4500. Instead of paying 100 each per side for tractor specific parts you can get Moog part number 8459B which gives you both pins, bushings, bearings, bolts, and rubber o-rings for just $65 shipped for the whole kit from amazon! It was even made in the US.

Now here's my actual question. In the kit I got 4 shims (picture attached) and I don't see them anywhere on the parts diagram. Anyone know where they're supposed to go?

Thanks,
mvphoto2835.jpg
 
my guess is to take up the wear space in between the axle and the spindle. Since the bottom has the thrust bearing
I would think they would go in the top gap
 
I'm thinking they're for whatever automotive application that kingpin kit is actually for. How'd you manage to find a cross reference? Wish I could've found one like that for my 3400!
 
They come just about all kingpin sets. They are used to take up/down play of spindle. Used on top of axle cause they are soft. or not worry about them. The biggest problem I have with the out in weather is the orings seem to detiorete quickly.
 
(quoted from post at 17:41:59 08/30/17) I'm thinking they're for whatever automotive application that kingpin kit is actually for. How'd you manage to find a cross reference? Wish I could've found one like that for my 3400!

I was looking for the ford part number (DEPN3115A) and a very helpful guy on amazon reviewed the part and pointed out that there was a much cheaper option. Nice of him to save people $140 on this job.
 
(quoted from post at 17:38:33 08/30/17) my guess is to take up the wear space in between the axle and the spindle. Since the bottom has the thrust bearing
I would think they would go in the top gap

That makes sense. Thanks.
 
Just a heads up. My old 4500 had wear in the axle end holes that allowed some slight movement of the new kingpin with the lock installed. Sort of hourglass shaped. I found information on old car forums about how to shrink the kingpin eye and ream it to spec.
The new bushings go in the knuckle and won't fix the looseness in the eye.
 
(quoted from post at 17:44:23 08/30/17) The biggest problem I have with the out in weather is the orings seem to detiorete quickly.

Cover the o-rings with grease when you're lubing the front end. The grease will dry and stay on the o-ring for a long time. This prevents UV damage which destroys the o-ring. You'll be amazed how many years you get with grease compared to less than a year without.
 
(quoted from post at 05:54:46 08/31/17) Just a heads up. My old 4500 had wear in the axle end holes that allowed some slight movement of the new kingpin with the lock installed. Sort of hourglass shaped. I found information on old car forums about how to shrink the kingpin eye and ream it to spec.
The new bushings go in the knuckle and won't fix the looseness in the eye.

I will keep that in mind. Thanks.
 
(quoted from post at 01:14:51 08/31/17) Hi all,

First of all I wanted to share something I found while looking for replacement king pins for my 4500. Instead of paying 100 each per side for tractor specific parts you can get Moog part number 8459B which gives you both pins, bushings, bearings, bolts, and rubber o-rings for just $65 shipped for the whole kit from amazon! It was even made in the US.

Now here's my actual question. In the kit I got 4 shims (picture attached) and I don't see them anywhere on the parts diagram. Anyone know where they're supposed to go?

Thanks,
mvphoto2835.jpg


Hi,
I need to replace the King Pins and Bushings in my 1971 Ford 4500 and I did see a note on the Amazon site about using the Moog 8459B kit as a less expensive option to the DEPN3115A kit.
Has anyone tried using the Moog 8459B kit and did it work without any problems or modifications?

On the Amazon site it noted the following comment for the DEPN3115A kit.
“You can order the MOOG 8459B kit for about half the price and it contains everything for BOTH pins. (2 pins, 2 bearings, 4 O-rings, 4 sleeves, both lock bolts) Plus shims, just not the zerk fittings. My tractor is a 1964 ford 4140 industrial, and the MOOG kit fit perfectly. You can research it yourself: download the Spicer heavy axle catalog and look up kit # KPK1017. It is for a 1957-62 B500/B600 trucks with the 5000# front axle. The pin sizes are 1.129" x 7.67". The sleeves come undersized, just like this kit, and must be reamed to fit.”

I am not sure what is meant by the last comment and what needs to be done. “ The sleeves come undersized, just like this kit, and must be reamed to fit.” Can anyone explain what this comment might mean? Are the sleeves the new Bushings? Would they need to be drilled out for the new pins to fit in them?
 
when the bushings are pressed into the spindles they deform and must be sized to end up with the proper clearance around the kingpins - a reamer is used which is not a common home/farm shop tool, you'll need to find a machine shop or tractor/truck shop that has the appropriate tool -

here's a link to a thread about 4500 spindle rebuild that you may find helpful - on the third page is a few pictures about sizing/reaming the bushings http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1302707&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
 
(quoted from post at 15:26:56 11/28/17) when the bushings are pressed into the spindles they deform and must be sized to end up with the proper clearance around the kingpins - a reamer is used which is not a common home/farm shop tool, you'll need to find a machine shop or tractor/truck shop that has the appropriate tool -

here's a link to a thread about 4500 spindle rebuild that you may find helpful - on the third page is a few pictures about sizing/reaming the bushings http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1302707&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0


Thanks pomester; that clears up what the reaming is needed for and thanks for the link on the spindle rebuild on a Ford 4500. Based on the information I saw in the link it looks like this could be a challenging job.
So far I haven’t even be able to remove the Spindle Lock Pins. I have tried rust penetrant, mild heat and a hammer with no movement. The Lock Pin appears to be hardened so I don’t think I could drill them out. So for now I’ll keep trying more penetrant, heat and hammering. Does anyone have a better suggestion?
 

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