NAA 12 volt conversion

phil(va)

Well-known Member
Thinking of changing my NAA over to 12 volts. I have changed TO-30 Ferguson's using the kit from this site and it worked pretty well. Wondering if anyone has hands on experience with the conversion kit for NAA from this site? The Alternator and bracket for the TO-30 worked well, but I know sometimes the kits don't match up like they advertise. Any 'gotchas' for the NAA? Thanks.
 
The brackets work well. I didn't buy the whole kit because I like
the three wire alternators. I've done a few NAA's without issue.
Not to mention several other models.

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I have yet to ever use a kit and many time you can simply flip the gen bracket and make it work. Then a bit of wire and an alternator made for a 1980 Chev pick up and a diode or light bulb or resister and the 2 wire plug and you have every thing you need other then instructions as to how to wire it
 
I used to make my own brackets too.
Time and material for me added up to more than buying them.
 
Why do you prefer the three wire alternator over the one wire that comes with the kit? I have used the one wire alternator from the
kits on two Fergusons, and so far I'm very happy with them. Just wondering ...? Is it just cost, or some other reason?
 
Control and options. They also tend to start charging at
a lower RPM because they have an external excitation wire.
Also, the 3 wire alternators are cheap here. ~$40

I have a couple with the one wire alternators.
They work fine and are simple to wire.
 
There are a number of reasons why a 3 wire is better then a 1 wire.
#1 many 1 wires alternator take a high RPM to self excite.
#2 many over a long period of time will drain a battery.
#3 they tend not to work as reliable as a 3 wire does.
#4 cost is at least where I buy alternators is less then by more then 50% and also have a life time warranty. I.E. last alternator I got that was a 3 wire was around $45 and the last 1 wire I got cost around $80 and it had a 1 year warranty over the 3 wire life time warranty
 
a generator shop can modify your generator to 12v and provide an appropriate regulator that is a drop in replacement -

likely this will be more expensive than an alternator kit conversion, but there are a few reasons to prefer it -

no mounting/alignment/pulley/belt issues -

the generator is lower profile and more rugged than an alternator -

maintain stock wiring -

stock appearance, if that holds any importance to you -

I have three tractors with alternator conversions (purchased that way) and two with converted generators (I did those) - I've had to fuss with the alternators, replacing pulleys on two of them, shimming the mounting for alignment, and replacing diodes in one to keep the alternator from draining the battery - - two work quite well, with the other one the engine has to be revved before the light goes off indication charging, dunno what's going on with that - -

the converted generators have been trouble free for the most part (there was a broken wire associated with the wiring harness that was an issue until I figured it out)

arguments to be be made both ways, I just wanted to make sure you knew of an alternative -
 
a generator shop can modify your generator to 12v and provide an appropriate regulator that is a drop in replacement -

Or you could purchase a 12 volt generator and regulator made for the '01 series diesel engines which were 12 volt from the factory.
 
I agree with pomester. I've converted my MF 50 and NAA by having the generator rebuilt for 12v and adding the 12v regulator and solenoid. The coil on the 50 was bad so I put a 12 v coil on and didn't need an external resistor. The NAA 6v coil was good so it has a resistor ahead of the coil. Cost for rebuilding the generator (both were bad anyway) was $120.
 
I never use a kit.

I turn the generator bracket around and with a piece of all thread rod and a few nuts mount the alternator.
Buy a 3 wire alternator locally that way I get a life time warranty with a face to face person so no shipping back if something goes wrong.
Use a belt for the alternator pulley width. Yes it rides a little low in the crank and water pump pulley but it works.
Wire it up and never have to worry again.


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never bought a kit, but the aftermarket brackets for Fords are very good.
I have cobbled my own when money is tight, but the bracket prices are getting so cheap lately...ya just can't beat em.

I usually run 3-wire, cheaper and they used to be as common as dirt at about $5-10 apiece off junk cars.....but most of that era cars have went into the melting pot.
I do have a few tractors that came with 1 wires, they work fine.
(I don't know if they drain.....batteries here get dis-connected when parked....I trust nothing electrical that doesn't have fusible links or master fuses)
 
Thanks everyone. Lots of good responses. I still have not made up my mind about converting. The tractor has a good 6 volt battery and doesn't discharge appreciably when running. An occasional trickle charge overnight keeps it working well. With mowing season here, I may wait until winter to take it apart and go one way or the other. One consideration is it has the original lights and they work!
 
The reason most convert to 12 volt is that an alternator system is more reliable and cheaper to keep working then the 6 volt gen system is. But even then a good battery be it 6 or 12 volts will run and engine for a long time with out a working charging system I ran my 841S for years with out a working charging system just because I did not want to spend the $$ to replace the alternator
 

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