Ford 3000 question

Hi all,

I decided to move my front wheels out on my 69 Ford 3000 to try to keep from driving on the windrow when raking hay. Problem I am having is, as the wheels go out, they also move back which causes toe out. I have moved them about half way out but the adjustment on both wheels drag links is completely bottomed and they are still quite a bit toed out. Has anyone dealt with this before or know a solution. I was going to move splines on the steering box arms but they are keyed (4 wider splines)
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You have to remove the bolt in the sleeve on both drag links and adjust them out also. They are treaded for adjusting. Add penetrating oil and use a wrench to turn them. A place is provided on the sleeve for placement of a wrench. Loosen the bolt in the clamp at both ends. Tires should be adjusted to 1/8 inch toe in at the front. An operators manual would helpful for you.

(quoted from post at 12:09:48 07/10/17) Hi all,

I decided to move my front wheels out on my 69 Ford 3000 to try to keep from driving on the windrow when raking hay. Problem I am having is, as the wheels go out, they also move back which causes toe out. I have moved them about half way out but the adjustment on both wheels drag links is completely bottomed and they are still quite a bit toed out. Has anyone dealt with this before or know a solution. I was going to move splines on the steering box arms but they are keyed (4 wider splines)
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Move the radius arms back to the inside holes, that will move the axle forward and should cause some toe in that you can adjust the tie rods out to correct.

Thanks for the replies guys. Old Ford Mechanic the bolts are loose and the sleeves turn quite freely. The problem is both ends of both sleeves are adjusted right up (no visible threads on the tie rod end or drag link) and I still have a small amount of toe out. Both wheels are about the same, It is 4 turns lock to lock, so if I turn to one lock then back two turns both tires are turned slightly out. I thought maybe the kingpin could be worn letting the axle move rearward, but the radius arms are still reasonably tight. Is there anything in the steering box that could be out of adjustment or one tooth out? I don't think it has ever been apart, but with the big front tires I have hit dead furrows and it seemed at the time that one wheel was turned way sharper than the other. It always seemed to spring back though.

Destroked 450 I tried moving the radius rods back but they were actually slightly better in the outer holes.

I moved the axle halves in one notch and with the adjusters tight I can get zero toe in. I do think something is still off. There is about 2 inches of thread on the tie rod ends and drag links, doesn't make sense to me that it needs to be all the way one way,

Don't know if the box can go together out of time but it's simple to check, with the steering centered both arms should been pointing pretty much straight down from the box.
How much adjustment did you have with the axles closed up in they normal position.

Also what type of rake are you using that has you running over the windrow at standard thread width.

Are you positive the radius arms in the outer position is better? Pythagorous and Geometry indicate that the axle would be swept back less with the arms attached at the inboard mount.

However, this wouldn't be the first time math notes on paper didn't match the real world.

Toe in or toe out.. set at 1/8... either way should stop the wobble... and with the radias rods out,, it pushes the axle forwards... and the bell crank on the spindles actually helps pull the wheels back to center.. so your probably right... but if you cant get the toe-in.. .set a toe-out.. it will work just as well to stop the dreaded wobble of no toe adjustment. sometimes due to excessive wear, you have to set 1/4 inch to actually stop the wobble/excessive hunting of the steering.

(quoted from post at 05:14:48 07/12/17) Are you positive the radius arms in the outer position is better? Pythagorous and Geometry indicate that the axle would be swept back less with the arms attached at the inboard mount.

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Not according to Ford.

I really never noticed, I am thinking about a 1/2" of threads. I took the sleeves off, wire brushed everything and then used never seize on the threads, then put it back togeather in the new position. The guy I work for has a 11' 635 JD moco that he sets to produce a 5' swath to dry. I then use the 3000 with a Keverneland rotary rake to bring 2 swaths together. The Firestone field and road that were on the back had been there since the mid 80's and were badly weather checked, so I decided when they were apart to paint the rims and put them back together so I wasn't driving on the windrow, then set the front to match. We have had a very wet spring and haying season and I have been fixing little things on it, but trying to keep it ready to go at a moments notice if the sun does come out.

Pythagoras would be right if the front axle were straight, but it sweeps back, so the curvature of the radius rod arc almost matches the 2 hole positions.

(quoted from post at 15:16:05 07/12/17) Pythagoras would be right if the front axle were straight, but it sweeps back, so the curvature of the radius rod arc almost matches the 2 hole positions.

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Bingo.... and you can actually see the axle get pushed to a different spot on the pivot pin.

Another rainy day so I decided to investigate my toe in issue a little further. It seems that even though they are partially keyed the arms can be incorrectly installed on the splines. Problem is we bought the tractor as a demonstrator in 1970, and I have pretty much been its only mechanic so I have no one to blame but myself. So I will replace the seals in the box and the leaky one on the power steering and I will be good to go.

Thanks for your help everyone

Alf

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