Putting split back together

OK, how hard is it to get everything back together. I understand about using long bolts as guide pins and the importance of having both halves lined up in both plains but what about the clutch and PTO shafts.

The PTO shaft can be turned to align it with the disk from the PTO with it engaged but don't see any way to be able to turn the transmission shaft.

Also when you are dealing with two halves that weigh over 1000 pounds how can you tell if everything is going together as it should.

About a day away from being ready to put my 3600 back together and any tips will be appreciated.

I have done too many splits to count from my days in the Ford dealership, some
times using the special trolleys but many times fitting engines out of the back
of my service van.

The trick I use is to have guide studs as you say to help keep everything in line
then use two long bolts, either side, to just hold the two halves together with a
little pressure on them. DO NOT TRY AND PULL THE TWO HALVES TOGETHER WITH THEM,
they are only to just hold things together whilst you push, wriggle and turn.

You can get the PTO splines engaged by turning the shaft with the PTO in gear and
you will feel it click in and start turning the engine, then push the two halves
together up to the transmission splines. Put the tractor in any gear with the
brakes on and the rear wheels blocked, then, with wriggling, turning and pushing
the two halves will go together.

You can turn the engine with a screwdriver in the starter ring through the
starter hole, turning on the fan works too but you can get belt slip.

Do not try and force the two halves together, everything will line up OK with a
wriggle and a push!

Thank you...
So the PTO splines engage before the drive splines, right?

Installed the clutch this morning, centered the clutch plates in the hole in the clutch cover within 1/32 of an inch. hope that is close enough. If I can locate measurements will check the PP to see how well it was adjusted.

All I have left is finding a couple long bolts with nuts per your instructions, measuring the PP and replacing the O-ring for the pick up tube on the hydraulic pump. Have a couple friends lined up to help for the big day.

As my grandpappy used to say, "take your time for a more harmonious outcome".

Success, it's now in one piece, well except the stuff I removed to get ready for the split. Can take my time cleaning up and putting everything back on.

It was a bit of a challenge but we finally worked and wiggled till it went back together. Took all 3 of us measuring, feeling, adjusting, wiggling and pushing plus all the help I received here.

Next two projects are to rebuild the front end and new brakes but those can wait till after the next mowing.

Thanks gang...

Im doing the clutch in my 3600 alone tho. Curious if you used a level at all to line up the tractor pieces heights at all

I use a level. I put it at the bottom of the block where the oil pan bolts on, and shim under the front tires and adjust air pressure to get it level front to back. Then block under the front. You always block the front and roll the rear. It is very difficult to get it to come back together when the rear is rising or falling as you are drawing it together.

I split my 4500 industrial by myself as well, but I rolled the front and supported the rear. I had the loader off though. I didn't use a level; just rolled it back with a heavy duty hydraulic floor jack. Had to wiggle it a couple of times, but went together quite nicely.


This post was edited by TomD62 on 12/21/2021 at 04:08 am.

(quoted from post at 16:27:35 12/20/21) I split my 4500 industrial by myself as well, but I rolled the front and supported the rear. I had the loader off though. I didn't use a level; just rolled it back with a heavy duty hydraulic floor jack. Had to wiggle it a couple of times, but went together quit nicely.

Click to expand...

Tom, usually a level is not needed but changes in tires can put it way out of level, providing an unnecessary challenge.

(reply to post at 19:27:35 12/20/21)

Click to expand...

I blocked the front because the balance on that end seems like I'd knock it over. On a 3600 there isn't a good lift point on the front, it baffling. I made a fixture hold her up without resting on the oil pan but the oil pan flange, It rested on a scissor jack. I move the back end using the diameter of the tires as a lever, but you really need two guys, one on each tire. I agree that engaging the PTO and rotating it to get the first spine in is a good tip. I also coated the mating surfaces of the spline with anti seize.

Remember adjusting the clutch fingers? No? Well anyway you should be finding that first big spline at 2 to 2.5 inches gap between the mating surfaces. That's the easy.

Next, The input shaft goes into the pilot bearing with 1/2 - 3/4 inch to go.

If these things don't work, stop and measure the distance between the mating surfaces and adjust but no mechanical force should be necessary. Take a break if needed. Finesse not force.

"Said, woman, take it slow and it'll work itself out fine
All we need is just a little patience
Said, sugar, make it slow and we'll come together fine
All we need is just a little patience"
- Guns n'Roses