6610 Rear Main Seal Burned Up

Hurst

Member
With about 2 hours on all the work I did on this tractor last week, which included a new rear main seal and a crank sleeve, my tractor was
running oil out of the bell housing from the seal again (I had it split and the flywheel/clutch assembly off in less than 90 minutes, I'm
getting good at this!). I took it apart, and it appears the seal lip has basically burned off (see pictures) and burned onto the
speedisleeve (hopefully it will scrub off without damaging the sleeve, as they are a bit pricy!). Here is how I installed everything:

1) clean crank with brake cleaner, installed speedisleeve with loctite 515 anaerobic gasket maker per the instructions
2) Pressed in new seal into the seal housing until it bottomed out on the flange machined into the retainer housing (about 1/8 inch below
flush from the front face of the seal retainer) all done with a press and a flat board so as not to distort the seal. It went in straight
and easy
3) Lubed the seal with EP grease.
4) Put a plastic wrap over the crank
5) installed the retainer (with new gasket and silicone around the oil pan gasket on the bottom) and everything slid on easily. Pulled the
plastic out from between the seal and the crankshaft, and it came out smoothly.

Did I do something wrong? I used an aftermarket seal, is this a problem with them? I have never had one do this in this short of a time.
Would the speedisleeve be messing up oil flow to the seal to keep it lubricated? I thought that might be it, but if that was the case, how
would it pour oil from the rear seal after the seal burned up. I didn't remove the installation flange from the speedisleeve because it is
usually only removed if there is an interface issue, which there doesn't appear to be on this crank. Plus, I get nervous removing them on
these thin little sleeves.

Hurst
20170606_184233_zpso12glppm.jpg
 
A picture of the speedisleeve and how it is installed. Notice the ring of burnt rubber on the sleeve.

Hurst
20170606_184208_zpsgpyfsrvt.jpg
 
Depending on the condition of the crank flange, I probably would have skipped the Speedi Sleeve and repositioned the seal in the carrier. Also I have never used plastic as an installation aid between a sleeve and seal unless there is a purpose built protector that is part of a seal kit.
 

It looks to me like the installation flange could impede the oiling of the seal. There could be plenty getting by but perhaps not enough higher up on the crank.
 
I tried that on the last seal, and it didn't hold long, maybe a year, so that got me thinking the crank might have more than just a groove on the surface. I've had good luck with the sleeves on other applications, but both of those required the installation flange be removed due to interference. I'm thinking maybe a new seal and pulling the installation sleeve might be the most logical course of action here. Has anyone used one of these sleeves on a ford 256/268/401 and had any problems like this? Or did you remove the flange and it worked great?

Hurst
 
Please post back the results, I have a 6610 and it drips a little out rear main, so appreciate the info.
 
I have a John Deere 410 hoe I it has the 4cyl with turbo and it and it has this kind of setup. It has a thin sleeve that goes over the crankshaft and then the O-ring rides on the sleeve I've rebuilt that engine twice and never had a problem with the rear main seal.
Did the 6610 come with the sleeve and seal from the factory?

If this was added aftermarket to cover up a Groove in the crank I would definitely suspect interference issue with aftermarket seal or lack of lubricant as you have mentioned. Also you did not replace these as a set it is possible that the seal was made to run on the crankshaft and not on the sleeve which would have made it too tight for the sleeve. Hope you get this worked out
 
I agree with Rick. If it was mine, I'd remove the speedi sleeve and install a new seal at a depth such that the seal lip would ride on a virgin area of the shaft. In fact, if you read the repair manual, this is what Ford even suggests. They say to use the installation tool with varying thicknesses of flat washers between the tool and the crank to stagger the installation depth.
 
There's no good reason why that seal should be leaking after only one year if it was installed on a good surface of the crank. What did you use to install it with?
 
The SKF speedy seals I get the instructions say do not use any sealers on them, make sure everything is clean, and dry before installing. If the installation lip is up against the radius of the crank it shouldn't make a difference.
 
All I can tell you is I've never used a speedi-sleeve on one of those cranks. I just move the seal in or out as needed to get a smooth surface. Make sure the leak is not on the seal carrier tho... That did catch me once.

Rod
 

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