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Ford 5030 PTO Clutch and Seal

A

aldunn77

New User
I have a Ford 5030. I think it is a 1994 or 1995. The serial number is BD72638, Model DU41WX. It is a two wheel drive, diesel. My wife was bush-hogging and backed into a stump and locked up the PTO. I have a new bush-hog, but the PTO is running way too slow. I assume we burned up the clutches. Also, the seal around the PTO shaft has been leaking (slowly) for a while. Can someone answer the following questions:
1. Can the PTO shaft seal be replaced without fear of having to break the tractor in half?
2. Does the PTO and rear differential use a separate hydraulic system from the transmission? Different fill points?
3. I have been told the PTO can be removed without splitting the tractor in half, by removing the seat and taking the top off the differential. True? If so, assuming I'm mechanically inclined, is replacing the PTO clutches something a mediocre mechanic can do?
 
The PTO shaft seal can be changed from the rear with everything in place except for the oil that is in the rear axle/hydraulic system. The transmission is separate from the rear axle/hydraulic reservoir. The PTO clutch cannot be serviced without splitting the rear axle center section from the transmission.
 
What Rick said...
In addition, the tractor can be split quite easily if it's an open station. If it's got a cab.............. not so much...

That said, from what you describe.. why would you assume the PTO is bad? Those plates don't burn up from a one time shock load. You'd break a
shaft first. What exactly are the symptoms? Or what have you checked so far? I'd be more inclined to look at the shaft on the bushhog for a
slip clutch or broken shear bolt. If the tractor PTO clutch is actually slipping then I'd be looking for a pressure leak in there somewhere,
and that is not something you want to leave without attention...

Rod
 
I've seen tractors with less HP than this shear the PTO driveshaft running thru the bottom of the transmission right behind the front driven gear.
 
Thanks for the replies.

The PTO is turning too slow, even with the engine at the required rpms. I was told by the mechanic at the Case dealer that the rear differential and the transmission share hydraulic fluid. That you add fluid under the seat, but check the dip stick by the shifters. However, I thought the rear end (with PTO) had different fill points and did not share fluid. If they don't share fluid, then it could just be low on fluid. I would need to know where to check the differential fluid.
 
The transmission and rear axle/hydraulics most definitely DO NOT share oil... unless someone has neglected to install the rear shaft seals on
the transmission.
Transmission has a dipstick/fill point in it's top cover. Hydraulics have a dipstick on the left side of the rear axle center housing, right
by the lift rocker.

Rod
 
I would definitely agree with that possibility, insofar as if something was to break, it would be that shaft, in that location. That is a long thin shaft. I just don't see one shock load taking out the plates? I'm also skeptical that there would be enough adhesion in a broken shaft to drive the PTO at all or even make the hydraulics work?

Rod
 
He is probably very low on oil in the rear axle.
Been getting bad advise and has no manual, or wont read it if it is available.
 
That's my prayer, low oil. My dad bought the tractor used and gave it to me when he bought a new tractor, so I don't have the owner's manual. I really wished I did. With the advice y'all have given me, I will check and fill the rear differential and pray that fixes it. If it does, then I may nose it down a very steep incline and pull the PTO shaft and replace that seal. I understand there are four bolts and it just pulls out. What is the best way to get the seal out and the replacement in? The only seals I have ever installed are real axle seals on F250&350s.
 

I see the dipstick and I assume either fill point under the seat is fine. Is there a specific hydraulic fluid I need to use?

Thanks again for all the help y'all have given. I'm just a dumb city boy (I use the term boy very loosely, 'cause I'm 56) that happened to fall in love with a country girl 39 years old, so I need all the help I can get.
 
Don't pull the shaft. It's not a cut and dried deal like the transmission driven and live PTO setups.
 
You can always order an operator's manual. They aren't free, but they are cheaper than a PTO clutch rebuild.
 
Is there a specific hydraulic fluid I need to use?
Click to expand...

Use a Universal Tractor/Transmission/Hydraulic Fluid (UTF) that says on the label that it meets or exceeds the Ford/New Holland M2C134D specification.
 
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