Ford 800 timing problem?

9njunkie

Member
Hey y'all , been working on and off between planting on the 820 we just got in last week and I can say that I am once again stumped. Tractor was bought non running and had been sitting over a year.

Here is where we are at so far.

Drained gas tank and cleaned, replaced non working fuel shutoff. New fuel line fabricated. Re install and re fill with fresh gas. Re built marvel carburetor. Pre set both adjusting screws one full turn out. Cranked tractor over with carb off and we have very good manifold suction.

Marvel mystery oil added to each cylinder prior to any attempt of turning the engine over. Wonderful compression verified on each cylinder. New sparkies gaped and installed, auto lite 437's.

Number one cylinder brought to TDC of its compression stroke(number 1 closest to radiator), set advance timing marks on fly wheel in inspection hole to 26 degrees. Installed distributor to where new point set is just beginning to open per ford manual. Installed new spark plug wires with rotor on number one in firing order 1,2,4,3 from radiator 1 to drivers seat 4 and wires set on new cap in firing sequence above in clockwise rotation.

New battery, starter switch tested good, coil tested good... Verified good strong blue spark to each cylinder. Verified points are opening and closing via test light.

Once in a rare while it will put put put for mabye 2 seconds after cranking with choke on just gas. Absoutly no reaction to starting fluid sprayed in carb.

Air cleaner tube is disconnected from carb. Tractor was converted to 12 volt negative ground.

Any ideas anyone??
 
(quoted from post at 21:44:41 05/24/17) Hey y'all , been working on and off between planting on the 820 we just got in last week and I can say that I am once again stumped. Tractor was bought non running and had been sitting over a year.

Here is where we are at so far.

Drained gas tank and cleaned, replaced non working fuel shutoff. New fuel line fabricated. Re install and re fill with fresh gas. Re built marvel carburetor. Pre set both adjusting screws one full turn out. Cranked tractor over with carb off and we have very good manifold suction.

Marvel mystery oil added to each cylinder prior to any attempt of turning the engine over. Wonderful compression verified on each cylinder. New sparkies gaped and installed, auto lite 437's.

Number one cylinder brought to TDC of its compression stroke(number 1 closest to radiator), set advance timing marks on fly wheel in inspection hole to 26 degrees. Installed distributor to where new point set is just beginning to open per ford manual. Installed new spark plug wires with rotor on number one in firing order 1,2,4,3 from radiator 1 to drivers seat 4 and wires set on new cap in firing sequence above in clockwise rotation.

New battery, starter switch tested good, coil tested good... Verified good strong blue spark to each cylinder. Verified points are opening and closing via test light.

Once in a rare while it will put put put for mabye 2 seconds after cranking with choke on just gas. Absoutly no reaction to starting fluid sprayed in carb.

Air cleaner tube is disconnected from carb. Tractor was converted to 12 volt negative ground.

Any ideas anyone??
6 static is not right, but not sure that would prevent running
 
Hmm...

So is it possible that the initial static timing should be set at like 4 or 5 degrees and mabye I mis read the shop manual and 26 degrees is once running at max rpm of 2200?
 
(quoted from post at 00:13:52 05/25/17) Hmm...

So is it possible that the initial static timing should be set at like 4 or 5 degrees and mabye I mis read the shop manual and 26 degrees is once running at max rpm of 2200?
ounds about right without me looking it up.
 
Ok thanks ... I'll give it a try first thing tomrrow. It makes sense if it's off by over 20 degrees that it would not run.
 
Update:

Tried setting it at 4 degrees... No change.

Double checked shop manual FO-20

Page 63
"Crank engine until the number 1 piston is coming up on compression stroke; then using a screw driver as a pry bar on the flywheel teeth, turn flywheel in normal direction until the specified fully advanced timing mark on fly wheel is in register with the index mark at timing port. The fully advanced timing marks are as follows:

1955-57 models .......26 degrees
1958 and later models ....24 degrees"

Still at a loss here, was I right the first time and could be overlooking something else?
 
Points just opening,"use test light", cw rotating rotor pointing at number one cap with wire on number one plug at 4 degrees before TDC with number one cylinder (front) on compression stroke .If now reaction with starting fluid, you have not fire in the combustion chamber.
 
(quoted from post at 07:27:20 05/25/17) Update:

Tried setting it at 4 degrees... No change.

Double checked shop manual FO-20

Page 63
"Crank engine until the number 1 piston is coming up on compression stroke; then using a screw driver as a pry bar on the flywheel teeth, turn flywheel in normal direction until the specified fully advanced timing mark on fly wheel is in register with the index mark at timing port. The fully advanced timing marks are as follows:

1955-57 models .......26 degrees
1958 and later models ....24 degrees"

Still at a loss here, was I right the first time and could be overlooking something else?
f you are going to set it up fully advanced as that procedure specifies (vs static), then you need to follow ALL of their procedure, including the part of "rotate the breaker cam in the normal direction as far as it will go and ....." This places the centrifugal advance in the position that it will be in when running at those specified rpm.
 
Latest Update:

Hey y'all... Went back to square one and double checked EVERYTHING. Went through it all step by step with nobody around to interrupt me.

Everything was done correctly as initially I posted. Went and re set it to 26 degrees advance timing per the shop manual.

In the end the finial thing that ended up being what held up the works from getting started was that the distributor assembly needed to be rotated clockwise about 1/8 inch... That's it. I rotated the assembly until the points just begin to open as prescribed by the manual but it needed to go just 1/8 inch further.

One tiny little eighth of an inch adjustment and now runs like a dream.

Thanks all very much for the helpful advice.
 
(quoted from post at 19:16:08 05/28/17) Latest Update:

Hey y'all... Went back to square one and double checked EVERYTHING. Went through it all step by step with nobody around to interrupt me.

Everything was done correctly as initially I posted. Went and re set it to 26 degrees advance timing per the shop manual.

In the end the finial thing that ended up being what held up the works from getting started was that the distributor assembly needed to be rotated clockwise about 1/8 inch... That's it. I rotated the assembly until the points just begin to open as prescribed by the manual but it needed to go just 1/8 inch further.

One tiny little eighth of an inch adjustment and now runs like a dream.

Thanks all very much for the helpful advice.
ell,my friend, that right there ought to tell you that it was too far advanced and when you retarded it by 1/8" (unknown number of degrees), it suddenly runs. :idea:
 

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