Tractor won't stay running - electrical

kramttocs

Member
Ford 860
Was converted to 12v at some point
Alternator says 12V NEG

So...

The battery box was rusted out so bought a new one.
Replaced it and while I did, I swapped the red and black battery cables to actually be red +, black -. Also rotated the battery.

I hooked it back up but didn't tighten the battery cables to the terminals very tightly (here's were it all goes downhill). I turn the key on, press the button and nothing. Figure it was just due to the loose cables. I get down there and am about to start tightening them when I notice the white block next to the battery with two wires on it (one going to the solenoid the other to the coil) is smoking. Doesn't seem right. I turn the key off (since I had left it on) and unhook the battery - stops smoking.

I then start to think that maybe I messed up my cables and they should be positive ground so I do the stupid thing and swap them. No smoke but starter doesn't kick in.

Swap them back, tighten them down, turn on the key and start the tractor. Runs ok, doesn't seem quite as peppy, but then dies.

Try again, runs for 30 seconds, dies.

The white block only seems to smoke if the key is on but the tractor isn't running although maybe the fan is just blowing the smoke away?

Figure I may have shot the alternator but I would still think the tractor would run. It ran great prior to this hassle.

Ideas?
 
Swapping the cables may have smoked the alternator, but you
are right, it should run without it and not charge the battery.

Now that you have it hooked back up right, does it have EI?
If it has Electronic Ignition, that may have been damaged too.

I would make sure the coil is marked 12V for use [b:aedde4279f]without[/b:aedde4279f] an
external resistor (or similar) and remove the white block.
That resistor is only needed when using a 6V coil on a 12V system.
It is normal for them to get hot. Hot enough to smoke if you
got some oil or something on it would not surprise me.

I would also double check the wiring.
One of the wires from that resistor should go to the coil.
The other side should come from a key switched 12V source.
Not the solenoid unless you have non-standard wiring.
 

You're correct - I looked again and it doesn't go to the solenoid. It goes into a harness that goes somewhere (undoubtedly the switch like you said)

I took the coil off and it says: 29690 For Use WITH an external resister.

I don't have EI yet.

Would it make sense to get a 12v coil that doesn't need an external resister and then get rid of the white block?

I'd been planning on getting the PerTronix 40511 coil to go with the 1244A EI but would it be a problem to just get the coil for now and run it with the points (and no white resistor)?

A new (modern) coil is the only way to test whether the resistor is the problem right?
 
If you changed it form - ground to + ground yo have smoked the alternator the moment you hooked up the battery cables and that is turn can/will smoke other parts in the system.
As for going to an EI I can buy 10 sets of points for the cost of an EI and well on many of my tractor I have not replaced the point in 10 plus years and they just keep on keeping and and run just fine. When and if you mess with the wiring and do not really know what your doing it is easy to mess things up and let the smoke out of parts fast
 
I'd like to know where you can buy 10 sets of points for $94. You might get cheap china made points that don't last a month but you wont get Echlen or Blue Streak.
 
1. Is that Pertronix coil + removing the white resistor a good combo? And staying with the existing points for a little while.

2. For temp testing can I take the coil from my 85 F350, remove the white resistor and see if the tractor stays running?

3. I believe the numbers on my alternator read: 11 0946 55A 3b23 12v Neg. The Parts section on this site has a generic one wire 12v w/regulator part number: 8NE10305SE. Is that the best one? Any other models that I could get at a local store that are good?
 
Disregard question #1. Did some more checking and looks like using that coil for points is not only a waste of money but can also burn up the points. So would only go to that one when I switch to EI.
 
(quoted from post at 08:52:30 04/20/17) 3 cont.: Is the 10SI one that would work for this?
top worrying about the alternator until after you find & fix the not running problem. 40511 is a 3 Ohm coil & therefore will work on 12v without resistor. If you reversed polarity on alternator, some wires should have smoked.
 
Most sets of points cost me around $8 from O'Reilly's and last EI I priced was well over $100.
 
Ya and it is the only true auto parts store in town. Next nearest auto parts store is also an O'Reilly's and the next is again the same company. Nearest other company other then auto zone which is a joke for a auto parts store is 50 round trip so when that is all you have that is what you use so why don't you learn before popping off at he mouth. I have learned the only thing your good for is attacking me in some way when you do not have a clue about me or where I live. I bet yon cannot even tell me which branch of the military I was in and what I did or the years I was in. But yet you can judge me for what I say. Hope your right with God because he will judge you like you judges others as per the good book
 

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