4610 Power Steering Pump Leak

LarryNY

New User
I'm new to YT's blog. I have a 1988 Ford 4610SU that I've had for about two years. I've been dealing with power steering leaks since I bought it. The one for which I'm asking your help is at the power steering pump. In the photo I've drawn an arrow pointing to the joint that leaks.
I tried and failed to print a copy of the pump parts breakdown from the New Holland website. It should be able to be opened by clicking on the link below:

http://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr59979ar259026

Studying the parts breakdown , I'm getting the impression that the filter shown in the parts breakdown(#24) must be accessible without too much hassle. First question: To do that, do you just remove the case off the end of the assembly by pulling the bolt(#36) in the center/end? That bolt on my unit looks like it holds a banjo fitting for the hydraulic line.

I'm reasonably mechanical, but I've taken things apart before where items spring out, or just fall out, leaving me wondering how to reassemble it properly. Are there any surprises to be had here?

All I want is to get the leak stopped at the junction of the flange(#7) and the body(#1). It appears that that connection must be made by the bolts(#13) and can only be accessed from the inside. Is that correct?

Finally, is the o-ring(#5) all that I need to seal it, or is the (#6)seal required also?

Thank You,

Larry
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changing the filter isn't hard, but a tad messy, your leak is at the seals for the rotating gears that build the pressure
for the steering. Any seal or o-ring you disturb should be replaced. Do it right the first time.I've never had a PS pump down that far, maybe another will give you more info

filter access info -
<a href="http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Joecdeere/media/tech%20pic/zzzzzzscan0001_zpsuwl4b9op.jpg.html" target="_blank">
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</a>
parts breakdown of pump
 

That is the last piece to come apart and the fruits to go back together, you'll need to pull the pump it fix it, take the lines loose and remove the two 3/8 bolts in the front cover with a 9/16 wrench or socket set.
They make a kit that has all of the grinds,seals to reseal the pump, put a new filter in while the tank is off.
You'll need a three jaw puller to get the gear off, other wise it's a pretty simple job.
A couple of other things, 1st, scribe a alignment mark on the tank and pump to have a reference for when you reinstall the tank.
2nd, the banjo fitting on the back of the tank is welded to the tank so don't try to pry it off.
 
I bet I've resealed over 100 of these pumps in my career, and never have I needed a puller to get the drive gear off. I simply straighten the lock tab and back off the nut until it's flush with the end of the shaft. I then grab the pump and hold it by only the gear, nut facing up. With a small ball peen hammer, a few light taps and the gear pops loose.
 
Joe,
Thanks for the very clear directions on getting to the filter. I haven't actually removed the filter yet. Since Destroked told me that it would be necessary to remove the pump in order to do the reseal, I did that before removing the tank. I suspect it was a lot less messy that way. And only two bolts and another line holding it. I noticed that the filter in mine is loose. Is that normal? Or should it be tight when I replace it? I assume that nut/bolt in the center has to be removed to get the filter out?

Larry
 
Destroked,

I really appreciate your tips, starting with confirming that it will be necessary to remove the pump to do the reseal. Knowing that, I removed it before removing the tank. Certainly reduced the mess I would have had, had I taken the can off first.

I couldn't help but wonder if you learned of the banjo fitting being welded to the can the hard way. You no doubt saved me from that process.

Thanks,
Larry
 
Bern,

Thanks for the tip.

I've been putting this off for quite a while now. I sure hope it works. This will, hopefully, get my power steering leaks down to just one, and that's in the column. I'll probably let that go for a while. I was told by a New Holland mechanic that one is probably smarter to buy a rebuilt column and just change it, than to tackle sealing it, only to have it still leak.

Larry
 
I strongly disagree with whoever told you that you need to get a rebuilt box instead of resealing it. I don't know if you have a money tree growing in your backyard or not, but you might wish to price a rebuilt box and then think that one over again.

I've resealed dozens of those boxes, and never had one leak on me. The trick is to replace ALL of the seals, not just the ones that are easy to get to. There's a hidden one that most people miss.
 

Any time, I've rebuilt a few and have a kit for my 4000SU's pump that went to leaking last time I used it.
First one I didn't mark the can and got it back on a little off so the line wouldn't start back on, figured I'd just turn to fitting to align it, I loosened the center bolt and luckily the can turned so it didn't break the fitting off.
I also need to reseal the column which I'll do while the engines off, removing the engine isn't necessary to fix the column, I have to pull the engine to replace the broken crank and will do the steering repairs while the tractors apart.
It's a bit of a bad design but the seal in the bottom of the column tube is a single sided seal that's designed to keep power steering fluid from leaking out, the bad part is there's nothing to prevent dirt, rust or other trash in the tube from falling into the seal causing it to leak.
My 4000SU had burnt causing paint an other trash to drop down the tube getting into the seal, I wiped the tube out the first time and the seal was back leaking in a few weeks, 2nd time we cleaned the tube pretty go and the seal has leaked a little a few times as soon as I start the engine then it would quit.
This time the tube is going to get a major cleaning and painted inside to stop the rust, I'm also going to look for some type of seal to go up in the column to prevent junk from getting into the pressure seal.

John
 
Hey, Bern,

Nope, no money tree here. I just don't know if that's within my capabilities. It's not a job I'd want to fail at. Where do you live? Maybe I can hire you to do mine.

Larry
 
West coast - zip code 98273. If you'd like to take the box off and ship it my way, figure the on the business rate (usually cheaper than a private home delivery rate), as I can receive it at my school.

If you're interested, respond back, open up your e-mail and we can communicate further.
 

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