1963 Ford 4000 power steering

Kevfulltilt

New User
A couple of weeks ago I posted about a problem I had with power steering on a 63 Ford 4000. This tractor will steer with power to left and hard to steer right (no power). I have replace both cylinders (one for each side), all lines and finally the $600 control valve. Still same problem. I have turned the control valve upside down and it will have power to right but no power to left. After turning control valve back to right way I am assuming I am not putting the control valve on right. Should I tighten nut until it bearing races reaches spool on control valve then back off 1/6 turn or tighten till it hits the plungers then off 1/6 turn. Also need to know where steering shaft needs to be. I have been tightening to plungers then back off 1/6 but when I di that I have to turn steering shaft counterclockwise in order to get threads. I am thinking now I should be going to the spool then off 1/6 but I don't want to get it too tight. Any help appreciated.
 
I did see your post below but didn't have an
answer for you.
I know you've been fighting this for a while
but don't remember all the details.
So I will ask you some questions here.
First thing, is the lower bearing - in the
very bottom of the box - allowing the
steering shaft to move up and down freely?
Not rusted or anything?
Do all your plungers slide freely in their
bores? No sticky spots?
Likewise the center spool?
Are your bearing races installed correctly
ie, with the larger race towards the control
valve?
Next, the center spool should be the same
height as the valve body or maybe a couple
thou short. Yes?
But the ordinary plungers should protrude
about 1/32" above the valve body. Yes?
When you install the spring washer are you
installing it convex side up?
Not trying to insult you here but google
convex/concave if you are not sure.
How tight are you tightening the nut?
You do not want the spring washer to be
completely flat. You tighten it just enough
to compress the springs in the ordinary
bores to be flush with the top of the valve
body.
The spring washer must flex to allow the
valve to operate. If you flatten it
completely the system will not work.
Beyond this I really have no more ideas but
have never seen one that wouldn't work if
assembled correctly.
 

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