Ford 4000 power steering

Kevfulltilt

New User
A couple of weeks ago I posted about a problem I had with power steering on a 63 Ford 4000. This tractor will steer with power to left and hard to steer right (no power). I have replace both cylinders (one for each side), all lines and finally the $600 control valve. Still same problem. I have turned the control valve upside down and it will have power to right but no power to left. After turning control valve back to right way I am assuming I am not putting the control valve on right. Should I tighten nut until it bearing races reaches spool on control valve then back off 1/6 turn or tighten till it hits the plungers then off 1/6 turn. Also need to know where steering shaft needs to be. I have been tightening to plungers then back off 1/6 but when I di that I have to turn steering shaft counterclockwise in order to get threads. I am thinking now I should be going to the spool then off 1/6 but I don't want to get it too tight. Any help appreciated.
 
Just looked at the manual, it says to tighten the nut until the LARGE bearing race of the top bearing stack seats firmly against the top of the spool, then back off 1/6 turn and stake the nut. I believe that spring washer has to flex some for it to work properly. I believe I tightened mine too tight before I got the manual because it steered effortlessly before I replaced the bottom seal and now its harder than it was before I fixed it. If all else fails, follow instructions.
 
First thing, is the lower bearing - in the very bottom of the box - allowing the steering shaft to move up and down freely? Not rusted or anything?
Do all your plungers slide freely in their bores? No sticky spots?
Likewise the center spool?
Are your bearing races installed correctly ie, with the larger race towards the control valve?
Next, the center spool should be the same height as the valve body or maybe a couple thou short. Yes?
But the ordinary plungers should protrude about 1/32" above the valve body. Yes?
When you install the spring washer are you installing it convex side up?
Not trying to insult you here but google convex/concave if you are not sure.
How tight are you tightening the nut?
You do not want the spring washer to be completely flat. You tighten it just enough to compress the springs in the ordinary bores to be flush with the top of the valve body.
The spring washer must flex to allow the valve to operate. If you flatten it completely the system will not work.
Beyond this I really have no more ideas but have never seen one that wouldn't work if assembled correct I copied this from ultradog.mn post
 

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