Ford 600

Have a front end loader on a 600. The crank pulley wobbles pretty good/belt is rotted, needs changing (been sitting for 15 years) and the governor arm is gummy which makes the engine rev up too high, but PB Blaster seems to be breaking it loose. Question ? Do I have to remove the hydraulic pump from the front of the tractor to get the crank pulley off and will the governor unit come out without a major front end tear down? Looks like pretty close quarters for wrenching as it is.
Thanks for any answers.

there are 4 bolts holding the pulley on try to tighten them up before you go to far

To do things like change the pulley or belt yes your hyd pump has to come off but that is pretty easy on most since most use a spline shaft that will just pull out. Should have a couple of bolts holding the pump in place simply pull those bolts and then pull the pump back and out of the way. Then you have to pull the drive hub off to get to the crank shaft bolt.

(quoted from post at 06:09:31 04/03/17) there are 4 bolts holding the pulley on try to tighten them up before you go to far

Click to expand...

Thank you for your response.

(quoted from post at 08:42:47 04/03/17) To do things like change the pulley or belt yes your hyd pump has to come off but that is pretty easy on most since most use a spline shaft that will just pull out. Should have a couple of bolts holding the pump in place simply pull those bolts and then pull the pump back and out of the way. Then you have to pull the drive hub off to get to the crank shaft bolt.

Click to expand...

Thank you...hopefully when I get in there, there will be room to pull the governor out and clean it up ? Lot of issues with this old 620. The steering box full of water and rusted solid. Right front wheel spindle froze solid. Water pump froze solid. Water in the tranny case. Governor stuck. That's the bad. The good was after putting new parts in the distributor, it fired up on first try and sounds good with no oil burn evidence. The front end loader seems to work ok. Brakes are good. Oddball tractor 620 with no three point lift or pto. Why would Ford make such a tractor and who would buy one ? County or State for a cheap front end loader? Anyway, this one was headed to recla-metals, so thought I would save it... Thanks again...

There where a number of different models of the 600 series. The 620 was just one of many and no 3 point or PTO made it cheaper and for some stuff there was no need for either one. Or as you said could have been one that was set up from the get go with a loader and that was all it did. But 3 point and PTO can be added to them

(quoted from post at 12:29:40 04/03/17) There where a number of different models of the 600 series. The 620 was just one of many and no 3 point or PTO made it cheaper and for some stuff there was no need for either one. Or as you said could have been one that was set up from the get go with a loader and that was all it did. But 3 point and PTO can be added to them

Click to expand...

The crankshaft pulley was loose enough to damage the splines on the front loader hydraulic shaft and the coupler which made it REALLY hard to pull the shaft out. Once I got the shaft out, and removed the four bolts from the coupler, the pulley basically just fell off the crankshaft. So what was holding the pulley on to the crank? The splines on the crankshaft don't seem to be too bad. The slotted center bolt at the end of the crankshaft does nothing?
(I hope my pictures show up here) I put a mirror in front of the crankshaft to show the threads where the slotted bolt goes. Had to use vise grips to get the bolt out as there was no other way to wrench it. Is there supposed to be a large flat washer on the bolt that would then hold the pulley to the crankshaft? I see no other way for the pulley to fasten on to the crankshaft.
Seems I could weld a 9/16 nut to that slotted bolt and still have enough clearance into the coupler.
Thanks for any answers.

I have been into the governor on both of my gas row crops and found nothing wrong with either. Be sure that you go through the linkage thoroughly before diving into the governor. The adjustment procedure is in your owner's manual.

(quoted from post at 07:26:00 04/08/17)
I have been into the governor on both of my gas row crops and found nothing wrong with either. Be sure that you go through the linkage thoroughly before diving into the governor. The adjustment procedure is in your owner's manual.

Click to expand...

Thank you. Was being skeptical about going into the governor anyway. The governor arm was stuck solid at first, but with scraping and PB blasting it seems to be working better and the tractor is idling down some. (was covered with Western Colo. dobie mud which is like concrete once it dries)

(quoted from post at 11:16:36 04/08/17)

(quoted from post at 07:26:00 04/08/17)
I have been into the governor on both of my gas row crops and found nothing wrong with either. Be sure that you go through the linkage thoroughly before diving into the governor. The adjustment procedure is in your owner's manual.

Click to expand...

Thank you. Was being skeptical about going into the governor anyway. The governor arm was stuck solid at first, but with scraping and PB blasting it seems to be working better and the tractor is idling down some. (was covered with Western Colo. dobie mud which is like concrete once it dries)

Click to expand...

There is an O-ring on the shaft inside the hole in the housing. Once you are set with freeing that shaft up I would give it some light oil to rinse the blaster off.

(quoted from post at 13:42:57 04/08/17)

(quoted from post at 11:16:36 04/08/17)

(quoted from post at 07:26:00 04/08/17)
I have been into the governor on both of my gas row crops and found nothing wrong with either. Be sure that you go through the linkage thoroughly before diving into the governor. The adjustment procedure is in your owner's manual.

Click to expand...

Thank you. Was being skeptical about going into the governor anyway. The governor arm was stuck solid at first, but with scraping and PB blasting it seems to be working better and the tractor is idling down some. (was covered with Western Colo. dobie mud which is like concrete once it dries)

Click to expand...

There is an O-ring on the shaft inside the hole in the housing. Once you are set with freeing that shaft up I would give it some light oil to rinse the blaster off.

Click to expand...

Thank you...will do. Once I figure out how the pulley actually fastens hard on to the crankshaft and put on a new belt, I hope to not have to go back into that area.