Ford 600, couple more questions

moday

Member
The Ford 600 tractor will still sit fine with the radius arm and drag link removed, correct?

I can see how the engine would roll about the front axle once the engine is removed from the trans (whole back half, as I'm splitting to replace a clutch). I plan to put wood wedges between the axle and bolster to prevent roll while supporting the top with hoist at the corners of the cylinder head....Maybe it couldn't roll side to side anyhow but want to be safe as I plan to move the back half of the tractor away by just rolling the rear wheels with an addl floor jack under the trans. I think that the jack should roll with the back half. That is my plan anyhow.

I guess that I could roll the front forward too with the cherry picker and front wheels. I just got to get a couple feet between engine/front axle and back half. I may eventually remove the bolster and plan to paint things but that may become a next time job....thanks in advance and any advice is appreciated.

I did a Ford 960 once but it was a different animal with the frame rails, so I'm just being cautious as I'm doing it with my 16 year old son to be his tractor when done.
 
When I do one I remove the front axle assembly and then the engine. That makes lining thing back up so much easier when putting the engine back on the bell housing
 
(quoted from post at 14:30:25 03/22/17) When I do one I remove the front axle assembly and then the engine. That makes lining thing back up so much easier when putting the engine back on the bell housing

Seems like lots of unnecessary work to me. But to each his own. I do it the way moday has stated he intends to.
 
(quoted from post at 23:18:33 03/22/17) Lots of clutches get replaced with just the engine and trans split. Link is of a clutch job in an 850. Just dont hang the front half from the steering wheel!
850 clutch job

That link takes me to a bunch of eBay ads. I don't see an 850 or a clutch job anywhere.
 

Use Hobo's trailer jack set up!!!! It is by far the safest!! You are correct about rolling the rear part. to support the front, just jack it up a little and support it under the oil pan, and with the wedges in the pivot as you planned. A tip: get it level front to back before splitting. It will go back together so much easier if on the same plane. Check level at engine block.
 
I got a feeling that the front end will roll away rather easy once the drag links and the radius arms are off the "trans" half of the tractor. I may do that first as OLD recommends as it sure would give me more room to work about the tractor. It looks like a few bolts to the bolster and we are free and the engine can sit on the oil pan with no risk of bending?
 
Yep and after the new clutch is in it is so much easier to put only the engine back instead of having to move the whole engine/front end to line things up
 

Front end rolls like crap, nothing to hold the tires straight, we used to pull the front forward, taking the front loose from the engine required draining coolant, removing hoses, ect.
After we got our first floor jack and learned to roll the rear end back, we've never went back to rolling the front.
Only time the front comes loose from the engine is when the block has to go to the machine show.

One does need a good wide base floor jack or adapted trailer jack like HoboNC made.
 
(quoted from post at 06:19:13 03/23/17) I got a feeling that the front end will roll away rather easy once the drag links and the radius arms are off the "trans" half of the tractor. I may do that first as OLD recommends as it sure would give me more room to work about the tractor. It looks like a few bolts to the bolster and we are free and the engine can sit on the oil pan with no risk of bending?

Moday, I expect that you get that "feeling" because standing back and looking the front looks smaller right? When you take Hobo's trailer jack arrangement RIGIDLY attached to the rear housing, your rear part is totally controllable and SAFE on three wheels, and your front stays immobile chocked and blocked. It helps if you firm up the tires a little in advance, but the big tires roll soooo much easier than the small ones, PLUS you get the added advantage of the leverage of the larger tire when pushing it. I have split larger heavier tractors with 38 inch rubber a number of times and pushing the rear is the only way to go. There will probably more guys chiming in adding to the consensus. Pretty much all the guys that actually do them do it this way.
 

I've only had to split 2 tractors, a Ford 8N and a IH 340, both of them for a clutch job. Hobo's solution is really neat. FWIW, I used a motorcycle jack as pictured because I already had one. As I recall, it took two pieces of 6" X 6" to shim up to the transmission. I used a ratcheting motorcycle strap around the transmission and through the jack for safety.
47033.jpg
 

Like most things you do you do them arse backwards if you have a tip you did not dream it up but want other's to believe you did.

Alignment pins have been around forever and can also make the job much harder to align all you need is a about 2" are shorter at the most even then sometimes you have to remove them to get it to go home.

There is one big tip to using alignment pins seeing as you are the master of disaster what is it... Crying is not a option...
 

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