Ford 2600 electrical wiring

Fiveflat

Member
Before anyone tells me to just go buy a shop manual, I already did but I'm waiting for it to arrive.
I've seen some of the wiring diagrams posted in the forum here. I don't have much of a wiring harness at all on this tractor. I'm wondering how important it would be to spend the $220 on a Sparex harness or if it would be easy enough to just get the tach, oil pressure, and temp gauge working and call it good?

I just noticed the other day that the motorola voltage regulator is unplugged and just hanging under the hood...
Opinions would be appreciated!

Thank you!
 
It would appear that I'll also need to get
rid if this single wire alternator as well
if I want everything to work right?
 
Other than the charging circuit.. there on not that many wires. and you can simply build/ repair your own harness. I do it all the time.

AS to the alternator, I AWAYS remove the defective lucas and motorola alternators and convert to a delco 10 si... and rehook up the warning lamp lead on the dash. In some cases I have to replace the belt tension bracket on the alternator as it is cut to too small of a curve for the fatter 10si. Particularly on the rowcrop series. Not so much on the all purpose models. summit racing sells the bracket for about 7 bucks.... but its chrome and I have to paint it black. yuckk!!!!
 
You say that it's been converted a 1 wire
alternator on it already? What brand is
it?
$220 is pretty steep and it probably
wouldn't work unless you went back to a
Motorola and solid state VR = $$.
All 3 cylinder harnesses come in two
halves - front and rear. They plug
together by the fuel tank.
How good a shape is the back half? All
those wires for the lights, etc in the
gsuge cluster would be hard to duplicate.
If those were good then I would just
rewire the front half of the harness to
work with your alternator.
If both halves were bad I would buy a
harness for a 3000 ~$50 and convert it to
work as a 3 wire alternator setup.
Tractor electrics are not my forte but
even I can convert a 3000 from a generator
to a 3 wire 10 SI. It is child's play.
Even if you had to buy a new 10-SI plus
the 3000 harness you'd still have less
than $100 in it - and have a reliable,
long lasting system.
 
I usually just make my own wiring harness.... since I've generally changed the alt out already, plus added lights and whatnot that are stuck
on there... buying a factory made harness is a waste because it's only going to get hacked up anyhow. It will probably cost just as much to
build one from scratch, but if you're fussy you can make a better job of it and install a fuse block at the same time.

Rod
 
Ha, well there is no front or back half. I don't have a harness whatsoever. There is a single wire from the delco to the solenoid and a wire to the key. ( which also reminds me, I guess we don't have glow plugs on these motors?)
I know Electronics very well but I've never rewired a tractor harness, I guess I'll just need to get the shop manual and look at the schematics because most importantly I need to bring 12 volts to the dashboard so that the lights work and I don't know where the 12 volts need to go. I'm only concerned about the oil pressure light, temp and fuel gauges.
 
Looks like that is what I will do. I need to
see the schematic once I get my manual to
know where to bring my 12 volts to the dash.
Like I replied in Ultradog's post, I don't
have a harness whatsoever so I need to start
from scratch. Does YT have the lamp clips
that snap into the cluster?
Or does anyone know where I can Source
those?
 
I have had a July 1980 2600 diesel Ford bought new and never had to replaced the wiring harness. Also never changed out parts other than what it needed. The only thing I have replaced are two seals on the fuel put , one piece of fuel return hose and I am on my third battery. Growing up in the depression we learned to replace only what was necessary to make it work properly.
 
( which also reminds me, I guess we don't have glow plugs on these motors?)

There was an optional manifold pre-heater called the Therm-O-Start. It's a plug that, if yours has one, would be threaded into the intake manifold. It looks sort of like a spark plug and would normally have an electrical connection and a fuel line going to it. Since your wiring harness is missing the wire for the Therm-O-Start is probably not there even if your tractor has it. The schematic in the manual should include the wire for the Therm-O-Start.

The Therm-O-Start has spring loaded valve that is normally closed by the spring, and an electrical heating element, and when a voltage is applied to the electrical connector via a special "heat" position on the key switch, the heating element gets red hot. The spring loaded valve opens from the heat and allows some fuel to dribble into the manifold and onto the hot heating element and it catches fire inside the manifold and heats it up. Then when you turn the key to the start position the burning fuel gets sucked into the cylinders to heat them up as well during the intake stroke.
 
Open up email or better yet, use modern view & send me an e-mail & I will send you a gas schematic for 2600 & marked up for diesel & 10SI alt.
 
If you are good at electronics you could probably source the clips for the dash lights and make your own harness.
That said, you'd be working for peanuts while you did it.
The 3000 harness has the clips for the dash lights, all the spade clips for the key switch, lights, solenoid, temp and oil senders, fuel gauge, transmission safety lockout, the whole shebang - and even cut the right length and assembled for ya, for $50. You would just have to rewire the front half for the 10SI which takes an hour.
But it's your call...
Click Here
 

I work for peanuts on a daily basis around my place, thank goodness for a W-2!
How in Sam Hill can the 3000 harness be 1/4 the cost of a 2600? This is probably a great idea Ultradog! I'm digging it more and more!
Thanks!
 
If you know electrics fairly well I'd just make the harness.... you'll have it done before you get one you have to butcher... and you can redesign it a bit so it works better anyway. I did my 5000 last summer. I just use a 8 slot ATO fuse/terminal bus mounted in place where the regulator used to be. From there you supply 12v to the key, various lights, and a cube relay for the starter control circuit. The key supplies acc power to the instruments, the thermostart and the starter control circuit through the transmission switch (which then controls the relay).
The instruments are fused inline with mabey a 5 amp fuse... with the indicator lights and cluster in parallel. Each gauge is supplied power from the cluster terminus and the signal wires go to the respective senders where they achieve ground. The cluster is also grounded. If you do it right and use a bulkhead connector in the right place at the firewall you can split the tractor easier without retracting a stupid wire harness.
It's simple enough. Again, if you don't mind wiring... a few hours will do most of it given you have it yanked out already. I also ended up using a 60 amp Maxi fuse for the alt/fuse terminal primary. That should work provided you wire appropriately and don't use anything larger than a 63 amp 10si...
Personally I would be cautious about using a harness intended for a 22 amp gen in a situation where you have a 60 amp Delco pushing back... Nobody needs a fire that badly.


Rod
 

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