question on radius rod and drag link assy

moday

Member
I'm about to remove the bolts between engine and transmission....plan to roll the back half away while supporting the front. I will have a cherry picker on the engine for support as well as some block underneath. I will wedge between the bolster and front axle as suggested in earlier post.

What I'm not sure about is the radius rod and drag link (steering)

1) I think that I can remove the radius rod from each side....is that correct and the tractor will still sit fine. The front pins are not even bolts at the center axle as there are no nuts on the bottom. Must have not ever worried about them popping out. I may replace with new heavy bolts. I think the back of the radius arm is just two bolts holding down the ball cap? I think that the third bolt can stay at that is behind the ball cap.

2) the drag link is not as clear to me and I don't find it yet in the shop manual. It looks like the "seal" near the steering arm is trashed on both sides. Do I need a puller or some kind of pitman arm tool to take these off and don't try to mess with the adjustment? The threads are pretty rusty (kind of not there) where you would thread the tapered shaft part onto the link. How do you use a tool near the drag link without just destroying the seal....

thanks in advance, Moday
 
yup, a 2 jaw PA puller usually works fine on the sector arms.

and yes, you can just pop the radius rob caps off.
 
If he is replacing the sector shaft seal, he will need the sector arm off as I instructed, not just the draglink end off the arm...
 
Jack up the front end front under the bolster to take the weight off the axle prior to releasing the rear of the radius rods. Doing so will keep the end of the RR from coming up out of the socket and contacting a hand or your face at a high rate of speed. When both are released, lower the jack.
 
I was off internet for a day....I'm talking about the rubber seal on the drag link near the steering arm...the end of the drag link below the steering wheel.

I didn't know about lifting the front of the tractor to release load off the radius rod. They will pop up if sitting flat? I didn't expect that condition but will do so if that is recommended. Service manual just says to remove the two bolts on the radius rod cap. let me know in advance, don't want any surprises. The axle side of the tractor has the radius rods held in place with bolts but the one has no nuts...They are bolts with worn out threads acting more as pins. I guess it's been like that a while but probably should put on nuts.

thanks, moday
 
The tractor will still sit fine with the radius arm and drag link removed, correct?

I can see how the engine would roll about the front axle once the engine is removed from the trans (whole back half, as I'm splitting to replace a clutch). I plan to put wood wedges between the axle and bolster to prevent roll while supporting the top with hoist at the corners of the cylinder head....Maybe it couldn't roll side to side anyhow but want to be safe as I plan to move the back half of the tractor away by just rolling the rear wheels with an addl floor jack under the trans. I think that the jack should roll with the back half. That is my plan anyhow. I guess that I could roll the front forward too with the cherry picker and front wheels. I just got to get a couple feet between engine/front axle and back half. I may eventually remove the bolster and plan to paint things but that may become a next time job....thanks in advance and any advice is appreciated.

I did a Ford 960 once but it was a different animal with the frame rails, so I'm just being cautious as I'm doing it with my 16 year old son to be his tractor when done.
 

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