Power steering seal

Bigh429

Member
Thanks to this forum I've ordered kit and filter. I don't have a shop manual. I have searched for a shop manual but can't find one that has the diesel electric. Some are advertised with only ninety something pages and a wide range in price. I digress. Now I'll have the kit and filter, do I need to remove the pump? Or can I install the seal with just reservoir removed? Any help is deeply appreciated! Also any recommendations for shop manual, even one I can download! Thanks,
 

There's several service manuals listed on eBay, three volume set for around $130 or just get a CD version for around $20 and print off the pages you need.

The pump has to be removed along with the front gear, best to completely disassemble the entire pump and check all parts for wear, the seals go in from the front with the gear removed.
 

There's several service manuals listed on eBay, three volume set for around $130 or just get a CD version for around $20 and print off the pages you need.

The pump has to be removed along with the front gear, best to completely disassemble the entire pump and check all parts for wear, the seals go in from the front with the gear removed.
 
Thanks, do you know how good the download versions are? I pulled the reservoir off today and can see I need to go further. With the reservoir off looks like four bolts behind the fan holds the pump in place. Once off what kind of puzzle will I find after disassembling? Better have the manual! Thanks!!
 
Somehow my post got tortured by the site. I was trying to quote this part of the original post so as to make a joke:

can't find one that has the [b:72564c1943]diesel electric[/b:72564c1943]

So my joking question about a hybrid tractor would have the proper context.... oh well, you win some and you lose some...
 
I got a cd for my 4500 project - - visually it's a very good scan - - browsing is not very enjoyable, lots of scrolling to get to where you want - - it's all there - this cd had some 'bonus material' scans of related paper, I haven't really explored it fully -

you should expect the full Ford shop manual material associated with your pump (and any other piece of the machine) - -

I'd guess the I&T manual covers it too and you might find it a little friendlier -
 
(quoted from post at 19:54:00 03/16/17) Somehow my post got tortured by the site. I was trying to quote this part of the original post so as to make a joke:

can't find one that has the [b:9b431285d7]diesel electric[/b:9b431285d7]

So my joking question about a hybrid tractor would have the proper context.... oh well, you win some and you lose some...

Sounds like something I would do. Next is the no driver electric tractor!
 
Oops, only three bolts holding the p/s pump. Anyway got it off,
removed the reservoir, removed the four bolts, looked at the gear
and not sure how to remove it. Looks like it has a lock. I'm not
familiar with it. I'm sure the nut is locked to prevent it from getting
loose, or tighter. I'm familiar with a cotter pin being used on castle
nut. At first look this appears different, sure don't want to damage
that nut or those threads.
 
Don't know yet, but I ordered a Cd manual found a couple on ebay and ordered one that is advertised to bookmarks. How you doing on the neighbors pump?
 

Got it fixed yesterday, going to remount it today.
Kind of embarrassing, I put seals in this pump two years ago working off the bed of my truck at his shed.
The two shaft seals go in facing each other, the first one faces out and the second one faces in, I mistakingly put them in backwards which moved the outer seal out onto the pump shafts taper which lead to seal failure.
My mistake so it's on me, I won't charge him for the redo.

The lock on your gear prevents the nut from backing off, use a small screw driver or chisel to flatten the tabs back against the gear, use a 11/16 socket and impact gun to remove the nut.
The gear is press fit on a taper, I use a three jaw puller to remove the gear, then remove the key from the shaft. When you reinstall the gear don't get crazy tightening the nut, I use a small 3/8 impact and only let it rattle a few times after the nut gets tight, then bend the tabs back against the nut.
After that the pump comes apart pretty easily but pay close attention how each piece comes apart, it can be reassembled different from how it came apart, but will only work properly one way.
A little late now but did you mark the canister and pump in order to clock the canister back to it's correct position when you reinstall it.
Also FYI there's only two bolts that hold the pump to the gear housing, they take a 9/16 wrench, the third bolt you took loose probably takes a 1/2 wrench, that bolt holds the gear housing to the block plate.
 

I did find just two bolts held the pump. Nope didn't mark anything! I have to wait on the kit. Probably be Wednesday before I have it. May try getting the gear off bu won't disassemble until I have the kit. That way I'll be able to reassemble, maybe without getting it wrong. Sounds I may have already gone wrong. Is there a fix for not marking?
 

Since your waiting on the kit, install the four bolts to hold everything back together, remove the canister seal and slide the canister back on the pump leaving the rear bolt loose so you can rotate the can.
Reinstall the pump and snug the bolts, now rotate the canister until the return line fitting on the back of the can aligns with the return line and snug up the line nut on the fitting.
Now scratch a mark on the front of the canister and pump housing to give yourself a alignment point when reassembling the pump and canister.
A close reference is there's a casting bump on the edge of pump that the canisters vent valve aligns with.
 

Thanks for the heads-up! Got the pump back on the tractor only needs all the new parts. Since I had power steering fluid in the oil I drained the oil and with the filter removed makes removal and reinstall much easier. I reinstalled the old filter and will leave the pump in place until i have the kit ,keep dust and bugs out. Only thing I didn't get off was the old seal.
It does knockout toward the gear? I did remove the snap ring, guessing all I need to do is use a socket and tap the old out then reverse the new in?
 

Got the reservoir marked, (used wifes pink nail polish) received my kit and the o rings appears too large. Anyone have a hint I can use to get and keep them in place. Also wanted to use a socket to knock out the old seals, can't. Anyone know a easy way to remove the old seals.
 

I used a screw driver and hammer thru the back side to knock them out, then a socket that just fits in the hole to drive them back in one at a time.
Make sure the inside seal is facing out and the outside seal is facing in.
The orings in my kit worked but I had to work with them a bit to get them to stay in place, one probably took eight or ten tries before it stayed in the groove without popping out.
 
(quoted from post at 22:15:10 03/20/17)
I used a screw driver and hammer thru the back side to knock them out, then a socket that just fits in the hole to drive them back in one at a time.
Make sure the inside seal is facing out and the outside seal is facing in.
The orings in my kit worked but I had to work with them a bit to get them to stay in place, one probably took eight or ten tries before it stayed in the groove without popping out.

I've gotten pretty good at removing the ps pump! The fist, then after marking the reservoir, I thought I had it fixed. Put it on, installed the oil filter, filled it up with oil started the tractor and the pump was leaking bad. Removed it again this morning and fighting with all those o rings I had left out those small that the bolts go through. Destroked I sure appreciate all your help. I Got it on this morning and filled it with ps fluid. Started the tractor and no leaks!! Used all the fluid I had left. I turned the wheel and but didn't do a full left to right because I need more fluid.
 

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