Ford 3000 Rear Rims

I used to be on here when I had my 8N, but the last time it broke down, I sold it. Recently I purchased a 3000 thinking it was similar but more HP. It is way different than the 8N and I need to ask a lot of questions, but #1 the rear wheels are different....is that supposed to be? Every tire on it is a different brand (haven't looked to see if they're all the same/correct size yet)! So, why does it have two different rims on it and can you tell me why the one is really different??? Any and all help would be appreciated!!! I haven't been on here since 2010 or so, and have never uploaded a picture, so here goes....
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I run the PowerMark 13.6-28s on my '63 2000 and '65 3000. Other option in the serv. manual is 12.4 but I like wide tires and bought what I bought when I bought my tractors used years ago.

The Top picture is the standard wheel and there are several variations you can play with to get your desired wheel spacing. The center dish can be reversed to extend the tires farther. The wheel is currently set inside the dish. The bolts can be removed where the wheel attaches to the dish and the wheel can be moved to the outside of the dish. Doing both things I mentioned will get you max wheel spacing. Doing as the PO did gets you min spacing. The 4 empty holes on the dish are for attachment of wheel weights.

The wheel at the bottom has wheel weights and is designed for fast changing of wheel width. Probably at some time CaCl that a lot of folks used with water to fill their tires ate up one wheel and required a new one and the only one available was probably the one in the lower picture. Just a guess on that.
 
"...so why does....?"

Money, the answer is always money -

the second picture is of a power adjust rim - - it's relatively easy to adjust in and out from the tractor for different jobs or to suit a specific row spacing in a crop - - if I had to guess, I'd guess that originally the tractor had a pair of PA rims that were loaded with calcium chloride and one leaked and ruined the rim and the owner priced rims and said 'I don't need to spend that much money, I never adjust the rims anyway, give me the cheap set up"- - "and by the way, do you have a cheaper brand of tire too?" - - and there ya go - mixed rims and mixed tires -

not a big deal and rather common - go ahead and use it - -
 
Top picture is of a manual adjust wheel. You unbolt the center from the rim and re-bolt them together in various configurations to change the width of the wheel track. You can turn the dish in or out for the center, turn the rim so the eyelets are in or out, mount the eyelets of the center to either the inside or outside of the eyelets of the rim to give you a wide variety of wheel track widths.

Bottom picture is of a power adjust wheel. You loosen the bolts where the clamps meet the rim and then drive the tractor forward or rearward to let the clamp slide on the tracks to change the wheel track width.

Both types were available for that model tractor, but it should have the same kind on both sides, not one of each.

As Texasmark1 has said, one of the original wheel was probably replaced at some point due to damage and the easiest one to find, or the cheapest, at the time was the opposite kind of what it came with, so now it has a mismatched pair. I don't see any wheel weights on the second one that Texasmark1 mentioned though. The 4 square holes near the outer edge of the wheel center, between the clamps, would be where you would put the carriage bolts to attach the weights to the wheel, and those holes are empty as far as I can see.

It does look like there is something behind both wheel centers, harder to see in the first picture but it looks like it's the same as the second picture when you zoom in... maybe spacers to set them out wider than normal.

Power adjust wheels are getting harder to find from what I understand, and more expensive, so if you want a pair of matched wheels, I would replace the power adjust with a manual adjust wheel and then sell the power adjust and probably make more on selling it used than you would pay for the new manual adjust wheel. Or you could sell the manual adjust wheel and use that money as a down payment on a power adjust wheel.

The Operator's Manual covers both kinds of wheels and how to adjust them.
 

I think I see adaptors on both sides.. meaning they bolted on wheel adaptors to allow a larger lug pattern wheel to fit.

If so that would mean both rims are WRONG...

now what do you do???

either way the spin out rim is worth more money and maybe you could trade them for the correct ones if lucky and find a source...

if not... as the old song goes... "love the one your with"
 

Not necessarily the wrong wheels.
I've seen a few 3000 models over the years with those adapters, best I can remember it seems they where only on later models with power adjust wheels.
My MIL's 72 model 3000 has power adjust wheels with that type spacer, my late FIL bought the tractor in 74 that way.
The 13.6x28 tire on the power adjust wheel is the size you see on most 3000's
 
I had an early 3000 with those spinouts and adapters. I sold the adapters to a fellow on this board. The wheels and centers I gave to another guy for parts though they are still here at my place.
Some of the Allis Chalmers tractors used those same spinouts. But on the ACs the lug pattern was already 8 on 8" with 5/8" studs so no adapters were needed.
Don't know what that other center is off of but it might be AC as well.
I wouldn't worry a whole lot about them not matching as long as they do the job.
If they bother you a whole lot you could start watching for a deal on some used ones. Ford started putting the scalloped centers on in about 1955 and used the same ones till about 1983 so correct centers shouldn't be hard to find.
I also went from an N to a 3 cyl 2000 which is the same as a 3000 and didn't find the transition to be too difficult at all.
PS, I think I sold my adapters for $150 and he was happy to get them for that.
So you shouldnt have much trouble selling yours to offset some of the cost of changing over.
 
That old song was a good one! In the process of getting a tractor to use, I of course, want to restore this somewhat and if both wheels are wrong, I'd like to acquire the right ones. I also noticed they're painted two different ways!
 
I did pick up a manual off ebay at the time I bought the tractor. I didn't get the whole thing
gone through and didn't know they discuss the wheels in there, but I'm going to check it out now.
 
I just don't see me changing the width on this tractor front or rear as I'm just going to use it to brush hog and disc an arena. So, I think I'm going to look for a buyer for the rims and get two that probably came with it. Thanks for feedback!
 
If you're looking to sell the current rims and spacers, you
shouldn't have any trouble finding centers to fit.
8N/NAA/Jubilee centers will fit, although they aren't scalloped.
6xx and up also fit, as would Ferguson TO-20/30 etc that are
scalloped. Outer rims all interchangeable on those Ford models,
Ferguson original outer rims will fit with the right bolts and
aftermarket six loop rims are readily available.
Congrats on the new tractor!
 
(quoted from post at 01:20:31 03/16/17) If you're looking to sell the current rims and spacers, you
shouldn't have any trouble finding centers to fit.
8N/NAA/Jubilee centers will fit, although they aren't scalloped.
6xx and up also fit, as would Ferguson TO-20/30 etc that are
scalloped. Outer rims all interchangeable on those Ford models,
Ferguson original outer rims will fit with the right bolts and
aftermarket six loop rims are readily available.
Congrats on the new tractor!

Good thing to know!
 
One other adjusting mechanism I forgot was that you can turn the wheels around as the mounting sockets are off center deliberately adding yet another adjustment. Turning the tire around will put your tread pattern in the wrong direction so you will need to swap sides of the tractor with the tire wheel assys if you do that.
 
(quoted from post at 15:15:31 03/14/17) I had an early 3000 with those spinouts and adapters. I sold the adapters to a fellow on this board. The wheels and centers I gave to another guy for parts though they are still here at my place.
Some of the Allis Chalmers tractors used those same spinouts. But on the ACs the lug pattern was already 8 on 8" with 5/8" studs so no adapters were needed.
Don't know what that other center is off of but it might be AC as well.
I wouldn't worry a whole lot about them not matching as long as they do the job.
If they bother you a whole lot you could start watching for a deal on some used ones. Ford started putting the scalloped centers on in about 1955 and used the same ones till about 1983 so correct centers shouldn't be hard to find.
I also went from an N to a 3 cyl 2000 which is the same as a 3000 and didn't find the transition to be too difficult at all.
PS, I think I sold my adapters for $150 and he was happy to get them for that.
So you shouldnt have much trouble selling yours to offset some of the cost of changing over.

I just bought an early 3000 myself, and it has the power adjust wheels with those adapters. I get that they are there for clearance, but what I don't get is, if they adapt to a wheel with and 8" pattern, why aren't the wheel centers the same as the 8" pattern ones that go on a Ford with a planetary rear? It's like they made a special center for a special adapter that doesn't work on anything else.
 

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