Help. Loader issue

Jyatesmp

Member
I have a ford 7710 with a woods dual 215 front bucket added. One hydraulic cylinders was leaking on the lift and one on the bucket. I removed the two cylinders, rebuilt them and replaced them. I also replaced the short hoses on the lift side for the two replaced cylinders. All hydraulic fluid was drained and replaced.

Now i have no function at my lift. From what i can tell im getting fluid to the short hoses on the lift end but no up, down or tilt.

The transmission engages and rear lift works.

Any ideas?
 

Did you reverse the hoses, so that they fight the other side?? If so they will not work...



DId the quick connects pop out??

Did the cut-off levers on the quick connects get turned on by accident?

Did the acs valve get pulled out?
 

Ill check and let ya know. Maybe next weekend before I get back out to it. Just brainstorming now.

What is the acs valve and where is it?

Also, it could be the hoses mixed up. I had them off and marked but the weather damaged my markings. Any idea what goes to what?

Thanks for the reply.
 
The ACS valve should be down/in.... but I doubt that's the problem. IIRC, if it was out the lift arms would not lift.. or would at very least
you would hear the engine labor because it would open the main system relief.
How do you have the loader plumbed? Is it run directly off the rear remotes or does it have a mid mount loader valve? If it has a loader
valve is that hard plumbed or through the remotes?

I would wager that if you haven't changed anything other than what you described... you either have a rear coupler popped loose or the
shutoff kicked up on it.... or you simply haven't flowed enough oil to the cylinders yet to fill them?

Rod
 
(quoted from post at 12:11:18 02/06/17) The ACS valve should be down/in.... but I doubt that's the problem. IIRC, if it was out the lift arms would not lift.. or would at very least
you would hear the engine labor because it would open the main system relief.
How do you have the loader plumbed? Is it run directly off the rear remotes or does it have a mid mount loader valve? If it has a loader
valve is that hard plumbed or through the remotes?

I would wager that if you haven't changed anything other than what you described... you either have a rear coupler popped loose or the
shutoff kicked up on it.... or you simply haven't flowed enough oil to the cylinders yet to fill them?

Rod

Thanks for the info. I am plumbed through the remotes.

I am thinking I have my hoses mixed up. Just looking for other ideas as the tractor is an hour away.

How long should it take to fill the cylinders? I
 

The hoses are paired, follow a hose from a cylinder you didn't remove around to the other side and see if the connects to the matching cylinder in the same location. Do that to all four lines.
After you've comforted that all of the lines are connected in the correct places if it still doesn't work, check to see that one or more of the levers on the sides of the valves hasn't flipped up shutting off the flow. I've had mine to flip up for no reason at times.
 
Might take 15 seconds or more depending on how fast you've got it running...

Even if they're mixed up... you can float one lever and see if the other function makes something work.

Rod
 
(quoted from post at 21:04:53 02/06/17) Might take 15 seconds or more depending on how fast you've got it running...

Even if they're mixed up... you can float one lever and see if the other function makes something work.

Rod

Thanks. Ill check and see
 
(quoted from post at 22:12:22 02/06/17)
(quoted from post at 21:04:53 02/06/17) Might take 15 seconds or more depending on how fast you've got it running...

Even if they're mixed up... you can float one lever and see if the other function makes something work.

Rod

Thanks. Ill check and see

Just a thought. Would i need to prime the hoses or cylinders?
 
(quoted from post at 04:46:43 02/08/17)
Just a thought. Would i need to prime the hoses or cylinders?

No, just operating all of the cylinders full stroke in both directions a few times should bleed the air out.

Thanks. I hope to get to it this or next weekend.
 
(quoted from post at 15:39:39 02/08/17)
(quoted from post at 04:46:43 02/08/17)
Just a thought. Would i need to prime the hoses or cylinders?

No, just operating all of the cylinders full stroke in both directions a few times should bleed the air out.

Thanks. I hope to get to it this or next weekend.

Do i check the hydro fluid with tractor running or tractor off. Off its full, running its not shiwing on dipstick. I have the rear lift up.
 
(quoted from post at 12:37:59 02/11/17)
(quoted from post at 15:39:39 02/08/17)
(quoted from post at 04:46:43 02/08/17)
Just a thought. Would i need to prime the hoses or cylinders?

No, just operating all of the cylinders full stroke in both directions a few times should bleed the air out.

Thanks. I hope to get to it this or next weekend.

Do i check the hydro fluid with tractor running or tractor off. Off its full, running its not shiwing on dipstick. I have the rear lift up.

Think i got my issue figured out. Traced my lines and made sure i have them running to correct remote.

I discovered my drop piston port on the right maybe damaged inside. All other ports are flowing fine but this one acts like its stopped up. Spitsvand spurts. Looks like i need to rebuild it.

Anyone have instructions on removal, tear down, rebuild and replacement?.
 
(quoted from post at 12:37:59 02/11/17)
(quoted from post at 15:39:39 02/08/17)
(quoted from post at 04:46:43 02/08/17)
Just a thought. Would i need to prime the hoses or cylinders?

No, just operating all of the cylinders full stroke in both directions a few times should bleed the air out.

Thanks. I hope to get to it this or next weekend.

Do i check the hydro fluid with tractor running or tractor off. Off its full, running its not shiwing on dipstick. I have the rear lift up.

Think i got my issue figured out. Traced my lines and made sure i have them running to correct remote.

I discovered my drop piston port on the right maybe damaged inside. All other ports are flowing fine but this one acts like its stopped up. Spitsvand spurts. Looks like i need to rebuild it.

Anyone have instructions on removal, tear down, rebuild and replacement?.
 
(quoted from post at 12:18:26 02/12/17)
(quoted from post at 12:37:59 02/11/17)
(quoted from post at 15:39:39 02/08/17)
(quoted from post at 04:46:43 02/08/17)
Just a thought. Would i need to prime the hoses or cylinders?

No, just operating all of the cylinders full stroke in both directions a few times should bleed the air out.

Thanks. I hope to get to it this or next weekend.

Do i check the hydro fluid with tractor running or tractor off. Off its full, running its not shiwing on dipstick. I have the rear lift up.

Think i got my issue figured out. Traced my lines and made sure i have them running to correct remote.

I discovered my drop piston port on the right maybe damaged inside. All other ports are flowing fine but this one acts like its stopped up. Spitsvand spurts. Looks like i need to rebuild it.

Anyone have instructions on removal, tear down, rebuild and replacement?.

Going down this weekend to try and get her. Any other ideas i should be looking at???
 
(quoted from post at 06:00:20 02/17/17)
(quoted from post at 12:18:26 02/12/17)
(quoted from post at 12:37:59 02/11/17)
(quoted from post at 15:39:39 02/08/17)
(quoted from post at 04:46:43 02/08/17)
Just a thought. Would i need to prime the hoses or cylinders?

No, just operating all of the cylinders full stroke in both directions a few times should bleed the air out.

Thanks. I hope to get to it this or next weekend.

Do i check the hydro fluid with tractor running or tractor off. Off its full, running its not shiwing on dipstick. I have the rear lift up.

Think i got my issue figured out. Traced my lines and made sure i have them running to correct remote.

I discovered my drop piston port on the right maybe damaged inside. All other ports are flowing fine but this one acts like its stopped up. Spitsvand spurts. Looks like i need to rebuild it.

Anyone have instructions on removal, tear down, rebuild and replacement?.

Going down this weekend to try and get her. Any other ideas i should be looking at???

Ok. We are at a loss. We completely drained the system and replaced filters. We are getting fluid at all remotes. Getting fluid to the pistons, but nothing at the lift or bucket. ANY IDEAS?????
 

What do you mean by drop piston port?
Are you talking about one of the cylinders or back at the remote outlets.

I'm assuming it all worked before you rebuilt the cylinders and replaced the hoses. If it was ether the cylinders are plumbed wrong or one of the remotes is shut off.

If the loader is plumbed into the rear remotes there should be four lines coming from the remotes going to the loader, each line will supply two lines going to two cylinders.
One will supply lines going to the bottom lift cylinder ports
One will supply lines going to the top lift cylinder ports
These two lines are connected to the top and bottom ports of one of the rear remotes.
Another line will supply lines going to the lower till cylinder ports and the last line will supply lines going to the top till cylinder ports
These two lines connect to the top and bottom ports of a second remote.

7710 remotes have flip levers on the sides of the remote for each outlet, these levers must be turned down with the levers pointed straight back, if a lever is pointed up that outlet is shut off.
At the top of the valve is a knob with pics of a turtle on one side and a ribbit on the other, the more the knob is turned toward the ribbit side the faster the hydraulics work.
 
(quoted from post at 18:00:12 02/18/17)
What do you mean by drop piston port?
Are you talking about one of the cylinders or back at the remote outlets.

I'm assuming it all worked before you rebuilt the cylinders and replaced the hoses. If it was ether the cylinders are plumbed wrong or one of the remotes is shut off.

If the loader is plumbed into the rear remotes there should be four lines coming from the remotes going to the loader, each line will supply two lines going to two cylinders.
One will supply lines going to the bottom lift cylinder ports
One will supply lines going to the top lift cylinder ports
These two lines are connected to the top and bottom ports of one of the rear remotes.
Another line will supply lines going to the lower till cylinder ports and the last line will supply lines going to the top till cylinder ports
These two lines connect to the top and bottom ports of a second remote.

7710 remotes have flip levers on the sides of the remote for each outlet, these levers must be turned down with the levers pointed straight back, if a lever is pointed up that outlet is shut off.
At the top of the valve is a knob with pics of a turtle on one side and a ribbit on the other, the more the knob is turned toward the ribbit side the faster the hydraulics work.

Think we narrowed it down to pressure. We get fluid at the remites, we get fluid at the hoses hefore they go into the pistons, (all lines are properly plumbed) but i think a garden hose has more pressure. We could not find a pressure guage in our local town....

As it looks now I need to replace the hydraulic pump (up by the oil filter). Anyone know if there is a difference in the england or us version?
 
(quoted from post at 18:19:56 02/18/17)
(quoted from post at 18:00:12 02/18/17)
What do you mean by drop piston port?
Are you talking about one of the cylinders or back at the remote outlets.

I'm assuming it all worked before you rebuilt the cylinders and replaced the hoses. If it was ether the cylinders are plumbed wrong or one of the remotes is shut off.

If the loader is plumbed into the rear remotes there should be four lines coming from the remotes going to the loader, each line will supply two lines going to two cylinders.
One will supply lines going to the bottom lift cylinder ports
One will supply lines going to the top lift cylinder ports
These two lines are connected to the top and bottom ports of one of the rear remotes.
Another line will supply lines going to the lower till cylinder ports and the last line will supply lines going to the top till cylinder ports
These two lines connect to the top and bottom ports of a second remote.

7710 remotes have flip levers on the sides of the remote for each outlet, these levers must be turned down with the levers pointed straight back, if a lever is pointed up that outlet is shut off.
At the top of the valve is a knob with pics of a turtle on one side and a ribbit on the other, the more the knob is turned toward the ribbit side the faster the hydraulics work.

Think we narrowed it down to pressure. We get fluid at the remites, we get fluid at the hoses hefore they go into the pistons, (all lines are properly plumbed) but i think a garden hose has more pressure. We could not find a pressure guage in our local town....

As it looks now I need to replace the hydraulic pump (up by the oil filter). Anyone know if there is a difference in the england or us version?

Well after looking at the manual to see how to check the pressure, their steps seem like a huge pita... my questions... is there a easier way to check my pressure?

I have two pumps and I am reading mixed reports on what pump does what. Some say the lower pump runs the rear lift, the pto and the transmission. And the upper pump runs the remotes. Some report the lower pump also runs on the remotes.

Im thinking my pump is bad, but my pto, rear lift and transmission are all fine. So if the upper pump only runs the remotes, that would tell me that it needs to be replaced. But if the lower pump also runs the remotes... i have no idea
 
(quoted from post at 05:48:00 02/21/17) Was it working before you changed the lines? If so, then I doubt that the pump is the problem.

What else could it be? It did sit for almost a year with the pistons off.
 
(quoted from post at 07:56:22 02/21/17)
(quoted from post at 05:48:00 02/21/17) Was it working before you changed the lines? If so, then I doubt that the pump is the problem.

What else could it be? It did sit for almost a year with the pistons off.

if i understand your setup.....

priority valve pack could be messed up, sense line could be clogged, filters could be plugged up,, (went through this with a contaminated fluid last year)... you need to put a guage on a male hydraulic fitting, and plug it into the remote, and test hydraulic pressure...Order a fluid filled 3000 lb gauge off of ebay or northern tools.. about 13-23 bucks... test pressure and decide what is happening.
 
(quoted from post at 07:18:44 02/21/17)
(quoted from post at 07:56:22 02/21/17)
(quoted from post at 05:48:00 02/21/17) Was it working before you changed the lines? If so, then I doubt that the pump is the problem.

What else could it be? It did sit for almost a year with the pistons off.

if i understand your setup.....

priority valve pack could be messed up, sense line could be clogged, filters could be plugged up,, (went through this with a contaminated fluid last year)... you need to put a guage on a male hydraulic fitting, and plug it into the remote, and test hydraulic pressure...Order a fluid filled 3000 lb gauge off of ebay or northern tools.. about 13-23 bucks... test pressure and decide what is happening.

Fluid and filters are new. Ill check the priority valve, but would that not affect my 3 point lift as well?
 
(quoted from post at 16:30:12 02/21/17)
(quoted from post at 07:18:44 02/21/17)
(quoted from post at 07:56:22 02/21/17)
(quoted from post at 05:48:00 02/21/17) Was it working before you changed the lines? If so, then I doubt that the pump is the problem.

What else could it be? It did sit for almost a year with the pistons off.

if i understand your setup.....

priority valve pack could be messed up, sense line could be clogged, filters could be plugged up,, (went through this with a contaminated fluid last year)... you need to put a guage on a male hydraulic fitting, and plug it into the remote, and test hydraulic pressure...Order a fluid filled 3000 lb gauge off of ebay or northern tools.. about 13-23 bucks... test pressure and decide what is happening.

Fluid and filters are new. Ill check the priority valve, but would that not affect my 3 point lift as well?
Anyone?
 
(quoted from post at 17:28:01 02/26/17)
(quoted from post at 16:30:12 02/21/17)
(quoted from post at 07:18:44 02/21/17)
(quoted from post at 07:56:22 02/21/17)
(quoted from post at 05:48:00 02/21/17) Was it working before you changed the lines? If so, then I doubt that the pump is the problem.

What else could it be? It did sit for almost a year with the pistons off.

if i understand your setup.....

priority valve pack could be messed up, sense line could be clogged, filters could be plugged up,, (went through this with a contaminated fluid last year)... you need to put a guage on a male hydraulic fitting, and plug it into the remote, and test hydraulic pressure...Order a fluid filled 3000 lb gauge off of ebay or northern tools.. about 13-23 bucks... test pressure and decide what is happening.

Fluid and filters are new. Ill check the priority valve, but would that not affect my 3 point lift as well?
Anyone?

Nothing?
 
I asked you previously:

Was it working before you changed the lines? If it was then I doubt it is the pump

You never answered my question, all you said was "what else could it be?" We can't help you if you don't provide us with the answers to our questions...

With that being said your response also said that it sat for almost a year with the pistons off. By that I take it that you mean the cylinders were disconnected. The pistons are inside the cylinders. If the cylinders were disconnected for a long time then anything could have gotten into the lines and could be clogging things up.

We are not mind readers, could you please tell us step-by-step what you did when you tried to get things working after it sat for that long. Did you connect the cylinders back up and try to run it before anything else? If so then whatever crud got into the lines while they were disconnected probably got circulated through the system and is clogging up something, possibly inside the pump and possibly in the control valve, or at any point where there is a connection for a line or any other place in the circuit where the passageway gets narrower.

Another question that you never answered was this one from Destroked 450:

What do you mean by drop piston port?
Are you talking about one of the cylinders or back at the remote outlets.

If you don't use the proper terminology then we don't know what you're referring to, so we ask questions like this to try to figure out what you are referring to, and once we determine what it is we will tell you the proper name for whatever it is so that we can communicate on the same page going forward. If there is something connected to the hydraulics on your tractor that you are calling a "drop port" and we don't know what it is, then we are working blind and will probably not be able to help you. If you don't know what it is and can't describe it well enough for us to determine what it is, post a picture of it and we can usually figure it out.

We are here to help, but we need proper information from you sf we are going to be able to provide that help.

Maybe the best place to start would be for you to go back to the very beginning and tell us why the cylinders were disconnected in the first place before it sat for almost a year and then tell us what was done when you tried to get things working again.
 
(quoted from post at 06:58:26 03/10/17) I asked you previously:

Was it working before you changed the lines? If it was then I doubt it is the pump

You never answered my question, all you said was "what else could it be?" We can't help you if you don't provide us with the answers to our questions...

With that being said your response also said that it sat for almost a year with the pistons off. By that I take it that you mean the cylinders were disconnected. The pistons are inside the cylinders. If the cylinders were disconnected for a long time then anything could have gotten into the lines and could be clogging things up.

We are not mind readers, could you please tell us step-by-step what you did when you tried to get things working after it sat for that long. Did you connect the cylinders back up and try to run it before anything else? If so then whatever crud got into the lines while they were disconnected probably got circulated through the system and is clogging up something, possibly inside the pump and possibly in the control valve, or at any point where there is a connection for a line or any other place in the circuit where the passageway gets narrower.

Another question that you never answered was this one from Destroked 450:

What do you mean by drop piston port?
Are you talking about one of the cylinders or back at the remote outlets.

If you don't use the proper terminology then we don't know what you're referring to, so we ask questions like this to try to figure out what you are referring to, and once we determine what it is we will tell you the proper name for whatever it is so that we can communicate on the same page going forward. If there is something connected to the hydraulics on your tractor that you are calling a "drop port" and we don't know what it is, then we are working blind and will probably not be able to help you. If you don't know what it is and can't describe it well enough for us to determine what it is, post a picture of it and we can usually figure it out.

We are here to help, but we need proper information from you sf we are going to be able to provide that help.

Maybe the best place to start would be for you to go back to the very beginning and tell us why the cylinders were disconnected in the first place before it sat for almost a year and then tell us what was done when you tried to get things working again.

We bought the ford 7710 about this time last year. The place we bought it from added the woods dual 215 loader for us. We got it home and two cylinders onthe lift began leaking (very bad). One cylinder on the lift, one cylinder on the bucket. We decided to remove and rebuild the leaking cylinders. Other than the leaks everything worked great. We took the lines out of the remotes and capped them. We removed the lines from the cylinders and caped them. We also marked the lines on each end.

Due to weather and unforeseen circumstances we were delayed in getting the cylinders rebuilt until I posted this post. By then the markings had come up due to weather but the caps on the hoses were fine.

When we placed the rebuilt cylinders on we drained and replaced the hydro fluid and replaced both filters. With the help from you all and a little line folliwing we got all hoses hooked up correct. We also replaced the hoses on the lift and bucket.

I did use the incorect term (pistons) off. I was referring to the cylinders being off.

Drop piston term i got from my 7710 service manual.

We now have the hoses hooked up correctly and are getting fluid to the cylinders, but the fluid has very little pressurr going to them. I dint have a pressure guage, but its more the pressure of a water hose, not 2500 psi.

I hope this clears up my issue. I cant thank you enough for helping me work through this issue.
 

OK, so with this being a recent purchase you haven't used much, I'm going to assume you don't have a full working knowledge of that hydraulic system.
Min pressure from the outlets indicates the valves are turned off, I mentioned this in a earlier post.
On the sides of the valve where you plugged the hoses in is a small flat flip lever for each port. These levers should point straight back, if any of these levers is pointed up flow to that port is turned off, If you operate the tractors hydraulic controls with the port turned off some oil will flow from the ports but there will be little to no pressure.
My 6610 has the same hydraulic valves as your 7710, sometimes when unplugging or plugging in a hose one or more of the levers will turn off on it's own.
I have learned that anytime I loose a hydraulic function the first thing to check is to see if one of the levers has turned off.
I don't have a pic of the valve or levers I can post but there should be some mention of them and maybe a pic in your service manual.
 
Quick connects connected, hoses traced and marked
correctly, cut off valve in flow position.

What and where is the acs valve?
 
(quoted from post at 11:09:17 04/01/17) Quick connects connected, hoses traced and marked
correctly, cut off valve in flow position.

What and where is the acs valve?


Well we think it may be the small upper pump or the priority valve. What would be the more likely suspect?
 

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