3400 oil pan removal

Sorry, I know the book calls it something besides an oil pan but I can't remember the technical name off memory. I started on the long path to put my 3400 puzzle together yesterday and have already run into a snag. The head is off so I figured I might as well replace the rod bearings and rings while it's torn down that far. I went to remove the oil pan and found at least 2 bolts hidden behind/above the casting in front of the oil pan that the front axle and radiator seems to be bolted to. (See pictures attached). Do I have to completely disconnect the front end from the motor to get the oil pan off? It seems crazy, more like something engineers would do these days, not in the 60's. I'm hoping you all will tell me another way because it seems like quite a bit more work than I was anticipating. Thanks for any help!

I'm having trouble uploading the pictures with my phone. I will try it from the computer tomorrow...

The front bolster has to be separated from the engine in order to drop the oil pan.

Sad but true; you have to completely remove
the front bolster in order to drop the oil
pan. There are two big (3/4") studs that
protrude from the front of the pan that
secure the pan to the bolster. The bolster
must slide forward about 3" in order to drop
the pan. I don't remember if you can just
support the bolster/axle with the tin and
radiator still attached and stretch the
radiator hoses that far. It's probably
easier to remove the nose and rad. I do
remember that the radius rods and tie rods
have to come off. And there are two 3/4"
bolts that secure the back of the pan to the
transmission that have to come out too.
I think originally Ford used a steel pan
gasket on those. You can get by with a paper
gasket but the thicker cork gasket will not
work. I think if I were to use the tractor
for heavy loader work I would use the steel
gasket or whatever CNH is recommending these
days. RickB can probably answer that.

(quoted from post at 03:40:07 02/17/17) The front bolster has to be separated from the engine in order to drop the oil pan.

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That's what I was afraid someone was going to tell me! Can you give me an idea how hard of a job that is? It looks like it's just four big bolts on the front of the block and maybe two to disconnect the steering from the front end? I assume it's best to block up the tractor behind the oil pan and then roll the front end away enough to get access to the oil pan bolts? Do I need to use a hoist to hold up the front end? I assume it's top heavy with the hood and radiator attached, just want an idea of how heavy it will be. I am a one man show for now. Thanks!

ah thanks. I posted before refreshing the page to see your reply. I will look at it a little more to make sure I understand what you are saying. The radiator is drained, hoses and hood has all been removed by previous owner if that helps me at all.

Buy some longer bolts for where the bolster
bolts to the engine block. About 4" longer
than the original ones. Install them in
place of the original ones then you could
slide the front end forward and it would
stay in place. Two of them would be
sufficient. That would let you leave the
nose and radiator in place. Grade 2 bolts
would be fine.
Yes, block up the tractor under the front of
the transmission - After you remove those 2
rear bolts
Remove the radius rods at the axle and tie
rods in front so you don't have to mess with
the power steering lines.
It's a bit of wrenching but nothing very
complicated. One man show for sure.
I would look closely at your front oil seal
for leakage while you're in it that far.
You would cry if you didn't replace it while
youre that close.

(quoted from post at 05:20:19 02/17/17) Buy some longer bolts for where the bolster
bolts to the engine block. About 4" longer
than the original ones. Install them in
place of the original ones then you could
slide the front end forward and it would
stay in place. Two of them would be
sufficient. That would let you leave the
nose and radiator in place. Grade 2 bolts
would be fine.
Yes, block up the tractor under the front of
the transmission - After you remove those 2
rear bolts
Remove the radius rods at the axle and tie
rods in front so you don't have to mess with
the power steering lines.
It's a bit of wrenching but nothing very
complicated. One man show for sure.
I would look closely at your front oil seal
for leakage while you're in it that far.
You would cry if you didn't replace it while
youre that close.

Click to expand...

Thanks Ultra, that longer bolt idea might just save me! I'll give it a shot and see how it goes.

CNH only had one gasket listed when I did mine. It was paper. That pan weighs close on 100 lbs. Seems like more when you're lying there trying to lift it into place.

(quoted from post at 18:14:08 02/17/17) CNH only had one gasket listed when I did mine. It was paper. That pan weighs close on 100 lbs. Seems like more when you're lying there trying to lift it into place.

Click to expand...

Thanks gears. I plan on using a floor jack to remove and reinstall the oil pan...