I need...

...some 1" steel tubing such as used in the crankcase ventilation system of the X000 series Fords - this is what remains of mine from a 4500 - it had a hose attached that routed the blowby to the exhaust pipe - I'm going to do something similar and need some tubing of the same size to work with - it wouldn't need to be from a 4500 as long as it's the same diameter - does anyone have something in their scrap pile they would part with for $$?

thanks - David

Are you planning on running a muffler?
If so that type system won't work, the back pressure caused by the muffler will cancel the venturi effect and under heavy load the added back pressure will force exhaust gases back into the crank case.
I seen the pics of how it was setup before, that may be part of the reason for all of the gunk that engine was coated with. A pressurized crank case will leak oil everywhere.

Here is how you would set it up on a racecar with mufflers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LzaBV1DUnb0

race car with "mufflers", maybe, and if when I saw that color I didn't need a title to tell me that it was a Barracuda...

interesting tho, googling 'crankcase evacuation' sends one down a wormhole of claims and designs - there is controversy about the design and how to install the venturi tube -







I know how the analogous tube in a carburetor is positioned...

yes, Destroked, I have the classic FO-17 muffler setting in the box waiting for me to figure out how to get the old manifold off the engine -

I agree with you on the issues of a pressurized crankcase - oil will exit from places you didn't know existed - and I'm sure this engine will have plenty of blow-by -

crankcase ventilation is an issue I'm aware of, my 9XX's envelope the operator in the contaminated crankcase air - I've modified them with a hose over to the air cleaner that routes the blow-by into the intake air - it does clean up the air around the operator, but I think it causes my continuing problems with spark plug malfunction - plugs don't look that bad, but they just stop jumping spark -

I am likely to try something into the exhaust with this unit and evaluate - I don't know of a better option -

thanks - David

Just a few questions since this tractor is new to you:

Do you even know if it has excessive blow-by yet? Maybe you don't need to alleviate a problem that's not really there.

If it does, then why not deal with the cause of the blow-by rather than adding a workaround that may or may not do what you want?

If you don't want to do anything to cure the blow-by and just want to divert it, then what about mimicking what the car manufacturers did and put a PCV valve into the fitting on the valve cover and route it to the intake instead of the exhaust?

That's the better muffler to run, it has less back pressure than the small oval FO-5.
I have poultry barns and am limited on height, I tried using the FO-5 with the pipe shortened in the barns and switch to a taller setup for field work, after a couple of swaps the mufflers fit loosely on the extension pipe.
When working the tractor hard the exhaust back pressure would push the FO-5 up the extension pipe a inch or more and a couple of times it pushed the muffler up high enough that it fell off.
I shortened both ends of a FO-17 and thou it was a few inches taller it worked much better and would only dance around on the extension pipe under heavy load, but the dancing around still told me there was a fair amount of back pressure in the manifold.
As a side note I tried a horizontal exhaust and the dust cloud it make in the buildings made them impossible to work in.

I am well aware off the evac system used on race and high performance street cars but they must have free flowing mufflers and the evac correctly located in order for it to work properly. They also have anti backfire valves to prevent the exhaust system from pressurizing the crank case.

Just my .02 but I feel trying to vent the crank case into the exhaust on these tractors will create more problems than it will fix.
Not bashing you but if your intake setup is causing plug firing problems or a the standard vent is enveloping the operator with fumes then it sounds like it's time for an overhaul.

If you get an OEM tube and put it back down in behind the fan it will mostly disperse the fumes until the blow gets so bad it just envelops
you...
Then you do a rebuild.

Rod

No offense taken - my observation is that any
engine, no matter how fresh, has blow-by - the
hundred series Fords by their design with the
breather on the valve cover and oil cap has this
excretment stirred by the radiator fan and blown
toward the operator to inhale - certainly the
condition of the engine influences the volume, but
even a small amount of unburned fuel mix/exhaust
products/atomized engine oil should not be inhaled,
particularly on a long term basis

I've modified my hundred series tractors by
plugging the oil filler tube and running a hose from
the valve cover to the air cleaner - not the best, but I
do not detect blow-by - - I have troubles with
spark plugs ceasing to spark- they are not
encrusted in oil like from leaky valve guides, but are
dark colored - cleaning them generally doesn't help,
they are just dead - dunno- even if my crankcase
ventilation is the cause a couple sets of plugs is a
small price for not breathing blow-by