Slow Hydraulics

Hi everyone. I am new to this forum so this question might have been answered already. I have a 1974 Ford 4000 (might be a '73) three cylinder diesel tractor. 2wd no front loader. The rear lift is real strong and will even lift up super heavy implements like a 4 bottom plow. The only thing that concerns me is that even on light implements the lift motion seems slow and doesn't move until I have moved the lever a good ways. Not sure if this is normal or not. I would figure the lift would be pretty quick and snappy. The lift will raise and I will have to push back down on the lever to find the stopping point. Also even on the light implements once I turn the tractor off it will slowly leak down within a few minutes and when I start the tractor back up it pulls the implement right back to the upper position. Any thoughts on what I should check. I changed the fluids and this did not help any. Thanks a lot!! [/b]

Sounds like it could be a sticking valve on the lift cover. Just had similar issue with my 3000. My unload valve was sticking. Took it apart, cleaned with scotch brite and put in a new seal. Be sure if you
tear into the top cover to get the RIGHT seals. Those one size fits all kits have o-rings that fit in most but NOT ALL places. The unload valve is one of these places. If you go into the top cover, be sure
to check the cam follower pin. It could cause the issue with the quadrant lever having to be moved so far before the lift starts moving. They are frequently worn, sometimes nearly in half. It's a 5 buck
part. There could also be a flow control valve on the outside of the tractor, by the left foot board. It will have a black knob on it. This will affect speed of the lift too. That would be the first place
I checked.

There could also be a flow control valve on the outside of the tractor, by the left foot board.

Click to expand...

Slight correction... flow control valve is on right side of tractor, not left.

Thanks, my brain is off today...PTO is clearly on the left of these guys....flow control on right. Thanks for keeping me honest!

Also might want to check the draft control lever to make sure it flipped up to position control.
Turn the flow control knob in for faster flow (quicker lifting).

Thanks a lot for the fast response!!! As soon as the ground dries so I can get my tire fixed I will definitely check into these. The draft control is off and it is in position control. I tried that before just to make sure. I will try checking the valve to make sure it does not need cleaned as ya'll mentioned. I hope to get this fixed as it seems it is really hard to beat these old touch tractors!! I will update you all as soon as I get a chance to check it out....btw are all those parts able to be checked without any major tear down?? Also when I turn the control knob that is below the seat it seems to just spin. I can turn it both directions what seems like forever and it never stops. Is this normal??

Thanks Destroked 450. The lever is in the position control and still leaks down when in both positions

The knob should not spin indefinitely. The knob should turn several turns in both directions but stop. The valves and cam follower pin will have to be checked after removing the top cover that the seat is
mounted to. Unless you are Popeye or Hercules in stature, that is a 2 man job (or 1 man with a cherry picker). Be careful to lift straight up when you remove it so that you don't bend anything. With respect
to the leaking down, you probably need a new seal and backup washer on the lift piston. Easy to fix while it's apart. I had the top cover off my 3000D a while back for the same issue you are having. I found
that the leather backup washer was completely missing and the rubber o-ring was broken in half. I'm still not sure how it was working as good as it was in the shape it was in. Either way, you can get a lift
cover gasket set for less than 10 bucks from this site. If you do take out the unloading valve, it will have to be driven out as the plug is pressed in. The book says to use a 5/16" fine thread bolt screwed
into the plug from memory. You can use a pin punch and drive it out from the back side too. Clean up the bore with as best as you can and clean the valve itself with a scotch brite pad. The 3000s I know had
2 different pistons, one with a steel ring and one with a rubber o-ring, 4000s may be the same. Usually the steel one can be reused, the rubber needs to be replaced with the right o-ring from a dealer. That
one specific o-ring is NOT in the kit below.
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I was able to get the tire fixed so for now back in business. I think since it is working good enough then I might just let it be until I can get help with the lift. Thanks for the response. I was able to turn the flow control knob and this time it turned out. That was the first time ever!! I turned it back in to check it again an it spun but would not come out. After a few more tries I came out so I left it. If I keep spinning it how far out should it come and if it comes all the way out for some reason and the lift is down do I have to worry about any fluid spraying out and hitting someone? Just curious to see how far out it will go but also am not wanting anyone to get hit with pressurized fluid lol