It's beautiful....

pomester

Member
and runs as good as it looks!

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original(?) Holley carb running at the tested half-choke configuration -

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apparently original generator and canister oil filter -

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I did not find as many numbers as I expected, nor are they the ones I anticipated - would someone decipher them for me?

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broken exhaust manifold, straight pipe setting on top = loud - - need to do a little body work, looks like a lot of wind resistance, might slow me down -



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built like a tank, loader/hydraulics seem to work well, steering operates as it should - king pins are shaky, literally, but I hope they get me thru the spring - I do plan to put this to light/moderate use for a couple of days next month - appearance is consistent with all the other lost puppies I have adopted in the past - rode hard and put away wet -



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I like it so far -

David
 
Looks a lot like the stuff I drag home! Congrats!
Are you looking for numbers aft of the starter?
Kinda looks like you should check the other side in the same place.
 
here's most of the numbers above the starter - I didn't realize these were here, I'm used to seeing all the numbers on the left side of my 9xx's

the 'rare' 'G' transmission - two forward, two reverse, high/low range -

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I'm working on getting the paint off the other series of numbers - it's real nice today for February, but weather is suppose to go wet tomorrow - I've been cleaning shops and will hopefully get everything inside by tomorrow - I'll park this beast in position and drain some fluids - need to decide what I want to do - find every zerk, make a list - once I start there it will be difficult to stop and I need to use this machine, not spend all spring working on it - just wire brushing these numbers I noticed corrosion at the battery/solinoid cable post - everywhere I look I see something that needs massaged - OTOH, it starts and runs, if I'm not careful I can make it worse....
 
The "G" code 4x4 manual reversing transmission is only rare because they were only made from 1/1/65 through 3/31/68. It looks like yours was made on August 17, 1965 (5H17). C110812 is a 1965 serial number.

On 4/1/68 (April Fools Day), they changed the manual reversing transmission from the 4x4 to the 6x4, which is the same day that they changed the sheet metal style to remove the louvers from the sides of the hood and made a number of other changes.
 
so - a question about the exhaust on this tractor - the exhaust manifold is cracked/broken and looking at possible replacements, the manifold sold by this site says "the exhaust pipe fits inside manifold outlet" - other parts providers don't say anything and the pictures associated with their manifolds suggest that the pipe fits over the outside of the manifold outlet -

If the pipe goes around the outside I could see it being clamped - how is the pipe held if it's the style that fits inside?

Is there more than one style of manifold across the 3 cylinder line? I know there's a vertical outlet and also one where the exhaust exits downward, but other than that, are there different models to fit different engines?
 
The proper pipe for a vertical muffler on a 3 cylinder thousand series tractor has an outer and an inner piece on the bottom end of the pipe. See the picture at the link below to see what I mean:

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Ford-3000_Pipe_D0NN5B255D.html

The inner part goes inside the port on vertical part of the manifold and the outer part goes on the outside. It is the inner part that seals with the manifold and the outer part acts to keep rain water from getting into the joint. There is no clamp used. It is a friction fit and the muffler shouldn't have enough back pressure to blow the pipe off of the manifold under normal conditions. This is so you can remove the hood to work on the tractor without having to remove a clamp every time. Also, a muffler clamp deforms the metal such that you would have to replace the pipe every time you removed the hood to work on anything.
 
Thanks - I have a CD of the service manuals on the way along with a hard copy (original) owner's manual - but it'll be a few days before they arrive -

I just spent the last 2 hours pressure washing the machine in preparation to moving it onto the shop floor when it dries out - hope it'll start now....

I'll post some pictures tonight maybe - there is a modification where the crankcase ventilation is plumbed into the exhaust right above the manifold - that's a new one to me - guess that's why there's a straight pipe on it, otherwise I'd guess it might pressurize the crankcase...
 
So - nice day today, I brought the pressure washer out of storage and blasted the first level of oily filth off the beast - I also ordered a carburetor, an exhaust manifold, muffler pipe adapter, muffler, and rain cap -

The front frame was full of nasty, all the drain holes were clogged and the steering mechanism existed in sediment layer -

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here's a new feature that I've not seen before, the crankcase ventilation is plumbed to a nipple attached to the exhaust pipe - I kinda like the idea of getting the blow-by routed away from my lungs, but it would seem like the this set-up would likely pressurize the crankcase -

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another situation that appeared after a wash was a blue differential case under a different shade of yellow - I'd guess it's been changed sometime -

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after two sessions with the pressure washer the afternoon was wearing on and I spent the rest of daylight shuffling machines around so I could park the beast on the shop floor - first item is fixing a leaky front tire, which also allowed a good look at the kingpins/spindles - not very good shape -
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it's a start - I'll get a tune-up kit tomorrow, plug wires, oil and filter, maybe take the exhaust off, those bolts look scary like they'll twist off - - I need to think about this kingpin thing, I'd rather not this season, but it surely needs done -

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If they did it right they should have angle cut the small pipe going into the exhaust it should create a vacuum.
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It would create even more vacuum if they would have also angled the small pipe as much as they could.
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It's a old racecar trick to provide vacuum to get rid of any crankcase vapors, and help with piston ring seal.
 
Thanks for the diagrams, something I didn't know - I was ready to give some previous owner props for knowing that trick, but then I disassembled the exhaust and saw this -

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so no, not so much -

I think I will arrange to use your mechanism on the crankcase ventilation - get it up and away from me -
 
I think I'll post here to kinda wrap-up this chapter of what will be an ongoing saga -

I got this beast on delivered February 4th - purchased thru an ad here at YT - I've had 9XX Ford tractors and this is my first direct experience with the 3 cylinder series - as I've had questions I've started threads - foot throttle: http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1305979 - - spindles and so much more: http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1302707

I thank all of you who contributed knowledge to this project - - the resource and collective knowledge here is remarkable -

anyway - I've been using the machine for the last week or so, cleaning my plantings of brush -

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...I've replaced the lift pump, new belt on generator (I did a superficial cleaning of the generator - it works unlike several other systems), new crankcase ventilation tube, used OEM exhaust manifold, new pipe, muffler, cap - sandblasted/painted the air cleaner sheet metal/exhaust heat shield, and misc parts - oil filter, air filter - valve cover gasket -

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new carburetor (ouch), cleaned settling bowl and associated, rebuilt distributor, all new ignition parts, refurbished some wiring, new throttle linkage/spring/refurb the control assembly - replaced the ground wire (had a nice unit in stock), cleaned terminals/solenoid - removed block heater, replaced upper radiator hose/coolant (aftermarket lower hoses do not fit this app, I got one from NH that looks like it'll work, but now I'll wait until another session to replace unless the current one fails - it's pretty soft...)

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new hydraulic filter, top off fluid, but didn't change entirely - one new hydraulic hose, clean and fill the clutch bearing grease cup, sandblast and paint the platforms and refurbish the foot throttle assembly/make new rod - change transmission and rear end oil, replace brake seals, adjust brakes, new brake return springs, refurbish/adjust clutch linkage -

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refurbish steering spindles/wheel bearings etc - get every grease zerk working and lubricated 2X

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new seat...new neutral safety switch (still need to find terminals that will fit it) - did the minimum to get the sheet metal secure - got the low (loaded) tire to take/maintain air -

dunno - this machine has the manual reversing transmission with hi/lo range and two forward and two reverse gears - not a very good transmission (working gears are lo/2 and hi/1 so have to shift gear and range both to make the speed jump), I understand why they went to the improved models pretty quickly -

The engine, which should be a 192 gas, a bit of an oddball since they went to the 201 fairly quickly, is pretty tired - #3 exhaust valve tappet/rocker is noisy, to get it quiet I have to take nearly all the lash out, dunno what's going on with that, visual inspection doesn't reveal anything obvious - lots of blow-by, I attached a hose to dump it out behind the tractor, exhausting where it does stock the fan stirs it and sends it back over the operator - this is a loud motor, but I've seen it mentioned that it's kinda known for that - anyway, it needs to be rebuilt and I anticipate that a 'light' overhaul (rings and bearings and seals) will not be enough, I'd be surprised if it didn't need bored at least - a big job for another time, hopefully it'll hold together - - it does start easily and once warmed to operating temperature it runs smoothly, governor works great - - I do need to re-bush the front axle, likely I'll do that this warm season - -

bottom line, from an 'investment' standpoint, this is a disaster - I've got more $$ in it than I could sell it for and overhauling the motor and painting the beast will similarly not return a net, and this is not considering my time being worth anything -

but it's paid for and doing a job that needs to be done - I nearly always operate this way, the accountant just shakes his head - unfinished projects and lost causes are a specialty -
 

Like you I have more invested in fixing up my 4500 than it will sell for, but it's paid for and most of the work has been done over time as funds and time allowed.
It needs more work because I let it set too long, engine stuck and got water in the trans, so now it needs some transmission bearings replaced and probably a new set of rings because compression seems a little low.
Most all of my tractors have been bought was repairable junk and have more invested in them than a used one would cost, but with the work I done on them I consider the completed ones to be in better condition than most used ones you'll find, plus the personal pride in fixing up and maintaining my equipment.

FYI, I had to replace the bottom hose on my 4500 recently, it takes the same bottom hose as a 5000. The radiator sets lower in the front booster than a standard 4000 which makes a 4000 hose to short.

That a heck of a brush rack you have on there, something you made?
 
R.E. Brush rake -

it comes from Phil Brown Welding out of MI - they've built a lot of them and it's superior to anything I'd make and well worth the $ -

I had another fellow do this job the past few years - he built his own rake - it spent a lot of time as represented by this picture -

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a great tractor tho - I'd trade -
 
I always hated picking brush as a kid. Still do. By the time we got a brush rake I was away at school. What kind of trees are those, apples??

The way I look at it, you may have more in a piece of equipment this way, but at least you know what's right about it and if you use it for years to come, the extra cost amortizes out. You could spend $35-40K on a new tractor, it might work faster, but it won't do more than that old Ford and when it breaks, it won't be cheap to repair. When my uncle passed, I got his 285 Massey running and took a liking to it. Unfortunately it was needed on the farm so I bought a 95hp Kubota. Discovered a 2WD 30 year old 85hp Massey could run circles around a 4WD 95hp Kubota. A $33K disappointment. I use my old Fords more than the Kubota.

Like you said, it's paid for I'll bet whatever you invest in it every year will be less than the depreciation would be on a new tractor and if you have a crop failure one year you won't have a new tractor generating a loss.

If you re-bush the front axle, let us know how that goes. I enjoy the pictures you post and they're going to help someone else with a similar problem. Last but not least, I'm going to steal your quote and turn it into a sign, "Specializing in unfinished projects and lost causes." Kind of sums up my life.
 

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