Clutch Adjustment

Trying to adjust a new clutch in the 3 cylinder diesel 3000 with dual clutch. Following the IT manual had no problem setting the "G" dimension for the PTO clutch. Setting the release fingers to the 2.110" dimension from the PTO hub face to the release finger adjusting bolts is not going well. I had to move the jam nuts from the back to the face of the fingers because I had no thread protruding from the back for them to thread on to. My concern is if I have enough thread engagement on the adjusting bolts. It is a new clutch assembly purchased from this site. Also the clutch disc that came out of the tractor had the long side of the splined hub towards the flywheel as is stamped on the face of the hub. The new disc is not stamped and the manual says to assemble with the long hub toward pressure plate except on the 4000 model,sort of confusing in that this same clutch assembly is listed for the 4000 as well as 3000. I am using a verneer caliper to measure the release finger dimension, anyone know a better way and how critical is this dimension? Any 1deas?

Are you trying to do this adjustment on the bench, or on the flywheel? If you're doing it on the bench, you're wasting your time, as the pressure plate is not compressed into its natural position.

I don't know how the IT manual assumes you're doing this, but a factory manual would assume you're doing this in a jig specially designed for this purpose. If you're trying to do it on the flywheel, I'd recommend that you take it off first and lay it flat on the bench.

As for clutch disc orientation, I suspect that what you read in the factory manual is correct. I do know that the transmission disc on a 4000 with IPTO is installed with the hub facing forward (learned that lesson the hard way). A 4000 uses a single disc clutch, which is a totally different animal. See attached image for a 3000 double clutch assembly.

As for the confusion in the parts book between 3000/4000, I suspect that the 4000SU model would have used the double clutch.

Finally, finger height is very important, for two reasons: 1) the height of the transmission fingers relative to the PTO fingers gives you the separation you want in your clutch pedal operation. 2) If the two sets of fingers are not all parallel to each other, you'll end up with a pulsating clutch pedal that WILL drive you bonkers (don't ask me how I know that).

Bern, thanks for thew info. I have it bolted to the flywheel on the engine. So,you think I should remove the flywheel and bolt the clutch to it laying flat on the work bench. Will do. What do you think about my having to move the jam nuts from the backside to the front of the release arms in order to have enough threads on the adjusting screws? Also thanks for the cut it doesn't appear in my manual and that clarifies the orientation of the clutch disc.

As for the confusion in the parts book between 3000/4000, I suspect that the 4000SU model would have used the double clutch.

Click to expand...

The 4000SU has the front axle and steering from the 3000 series, but it has the double reduction rear axle of the 4000 series, so it should have independent PTO and a single clutch.

If this clutch truly is new, then you shouldn't have to move the nuts around as you plan. If this is the case, I'd call the vendor and explain your issue.

If the pressure plate has been rebuilt, then I suspect that you have accumulated wear in the various pivot points (of which there are a lot of) which is causing your levers to sit lower than they normally would. That said, I don't see an issue with putting the jam nuts on the top side. If it gets your lever height where you need it to be, then do what you have to do.

As I said in my last post, the important thing is that they are all the same height relative to each other - that's more important than the actual height. One more thing, if you have a press available to you, preferably a small one, set the assembly in a press (or a big drill press would work even better) and use the press, along with the throwout bearing, to exercise the levers up and down to get everything to "seat in". Caution: Don't press too far - just enough to free the discs. After you do that, check your lever heights again. You might be surprised how much they move around.

The last one of these double clutch kits I got came pre adjusted, all I had to do was bolt it on and put the tractor back together.

Which should be the case with all new or reman clutches. However, that's not always done accurately, especially when they come back from a jippo rebuild place. I always double checked mine before the tractor went back together.

Understood! I get all of my clutches from a local rebuilder, he may be using some foreign materials but most time assembles them while I wait, normally about 30-45 minutes.