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1970s Ford 3000 knock*UPDATE*

A

AlanBarrett

Member
Found this in the combustion chamber>

Would you run the piston? Rings are not pinched. I can see no damage to the rest of the piston/ rod.


What caused this damage to the rod bearing? Only the rod-side of the bearing was damaged this way. The cap-side bearing was ok.
 
If this was a turboed engine that had the snot worked out of it every day, I'd say no way, replace that piston, because if you don't, you're inviting a crack later on down the road. On the other hand, if this engine is seeing mostly light duty, it might be just fine. It's a tough call for sure, especially considering what NH will ask for a new one. My only concern with using the old one would be to make sure that the top of the piston crown is not swelled, which could cause a seizure after it heats up. Carefully check the top of the piston with an outside mic to make sure it's not out of round.

As for the bearing, it would sure appear to be an installation problem to me. I'm guessing that bearing insert was installed in the wrong half initially and then torqued. Then, when whoever installed it realized the engine was locked up, took it back apart and swapped it around without completely straightening out the tab. As good as that bearing looks otherwise (i.e. it's not starting to seize), I can see no other reasonable explanation for that bent tab.
 
(quoted from post at 21:29:27 02/02/17) For what a piston costs, and given you have it apart already, why chance it?
Click to expand...
I am going to order a new piston. I have a spare engine so I will use a different rod. I think I will install a new set of rod bearings for all 3 rods, since they are cheap. Should I reuse the same rings for the single new piston, or just go ahead and buy all new rings as well? The rebuild has 107 hours(std. sleeves,new pistons, rings, bearings, head freshened, crank ground .010 under).
 
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