Ford 2000 3 cylinder gas

2000Jake

New User
Found bad ignition coil and some bad wiring on a tractor I picked up last year. Current coil has two wires going to the + side. One goes back to the ignition switch and one goes to the starter solenoid. I disconnected the one going back to the ignition switch and has .7 ohms across it disconnected. Im assuming this is a resistive wire in place of an external resistor. In order to wire in a internally resisted coil I know I would have to remove that wire but what about the wire coming from the starter solenoid? Do away with it?
 
Always let us know if you have a 4 cylinder 2000 or a 3 cylinder model.
They are very different tractors with the same model #.
Im thinking you have a 3 cyl.
You are correct that it is a resistor wire.
There should be a bullet connector near the solenoid on that wire. Disconnect it at the bullet connector and eliminate the resister wire. Then connect it to the wire that was going from the solenoid to the coil and you should be good to go.
 
Yes it is a 3 cylinder and thanks for the response. So pull that wire that was coming off the solenoid and hook it up to where the resistor wire was? Was that wire connected to the solenoid to bypass the resistor wire on startup? Thanks again
 
the wire fromt he solenoid is a BYPASS wire for that resistor wire from the switch.

normally running current goes thru resistor wire to the 6v coil.

During starting, 12v is sent directly to the 6v coil, bypassing that resistor wire.

if you put in a native 12v coil, like a napa IC14SB, remove the resistor wire, and the bypass is not needed.

PS.. that's not an internally resisted coil.. I challenge you to find a commercially available coil with a resistive element in it. Coils today are made with the correct number of windings of the correct diameter wire to arrive at the correct resistance for the application it was designed for.
 
Once you switch to a 12 volt coil with no external resistance required then the wire from the solenoid can be eliminated. All that does is bypass the external resistor or resistance wire during starting to give you a hotter spark. Once the external resistance wire is no longer there it will have the same voltage as the wire coming from the key switch.
 
I understand that it doesn't have a resistor internally it's just how "they" refer to them due to having a higher resistance winding and not requiring an external resistive device. But my next question is does an "internally resisted" or true 12v coil have any effect on performance?
 
Who is labeling their coil 'internally resisted' ?

I have seen many say 'with serial / series resistance'

or

'no external resistance/resistor needed'

Effect on performance? no negative impact. Technically it's a couple less connections in the circuit, and mechanical connections are locations for corrosion and other problems with oxidation.
 
Not saying labeling just a common misconception among many people.

Ok thanks was just curious have always heard they run better.
 
Spark mystifies most people.

There is a big green zone, where once you have enough high voltage to jump the gap, you are good.

For instance say you have a gap that needs 14kv to jump.

You have 2 ignitions, one that in best case can make 20, and another that can make 40

Applied to that same test gap.. Both sparks occur at 14kv.

Add in wear and corrosion on the primary and secondary circuit and start degrading the kb both test circuits make.

Everything is still green till a circuit drops under 14k .

The circuit with more fault tolerance stands up better in the less optimal conditions.

That's why I like to pull 6v coils and ignition resistors on systems running 12v, and go to a 12v coil.

Less connections, more room to stay in that optimal range.

However, as said.. Once you are making enough kv to jump the gap it dont matter if its a 4v coil and resistor like a n frontmount, or a n sidemount with a 6v coil, or a n sidemount on 12v with 6v coil and resistor, or n sidemount on 12v with 12v coil.

Its going to run the same.

From a cost, maintenance, and reliability perspective, more parts require more maintenance, have more cost, and are more places for problems. Less parts, less cost, less maintenance, less areas for problems.

I'll take a native voltage coil and no resistor any day over a ballasted coil ignition for those reasons.

Less wire connections due to less components, thus less maintenance and less areas for corrosion, and finally, Las I looked, a 12v coil was cheaper than a 6v coil and resistor.

Not to mention the much greater 12v battery options vs 6v
 
I believe you still need the wire going to the solenoid as when on start some of the factory ford switches has no fire going to the coil. and they only start when you release the key from the start pos without the wire from the solenoid.
 
Thanks for all the responses, I need to throw a starter and replace the some of the wiring once I get all that done I'll let y'all know how she fires.
 
At least she's a gasser.. the diesels are harder to change the starter on due tot he location of the injector pump and fuel filter head/heads.
 
Update: got all my wiring, starter and coil replaced. Turns over fast as can be now. Still wouldn't fire. Pull started it before the new starter went in and ran terrible. So after getting the new starter in and still wouldn't start I pulled the plugs and they were sooted up. Cleaned the plugs up and now it barely fires but won't stay running back fires and carb spits out smoke.
 
(quoted from post at 19:47:32 02/03/17) Update: got all my wiring, starter and coil replaced. Turns over fast as can be now. Still wouldn't fire. Pull started it before the new starter went in and ran terrible. So after getting the new starter in and still wouldn't start I pulled the plugs and they were sooted up. Cleaned the plugs up and now it barely fires but won't stay running back fires and carb spits out smoke.

Has it ever run good since you got it? If not I would go through all of the basics, adjust the valves and points, check timing, plug wire order, etc.
 

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