Ford 6610 cold starting issue

Hi all, I'm new to the forum but have been trolling around for a while and found lots of great information. I've been running Ford tractors for several years but just bought one of my own last year.

I picked up a 1986 Ford 6610 2wd factory cab tractor with 4800hrs. It has the minimec pump and has a new battery. Last winter it seemed to start fine, even in the cold (parked inside, outside plugged in, using thermostart and fuel button). I live in Canada so it can get quite cold here (down to -35c at times ). Recently it started acting up. It has a new fuel filter (it's the single filter model). The tractor starts fine but will only stay running for about 2-3 seconds then dies out. It does this several times before staying running. My first thought was the lift pump/transfer pump or air in the fuel system. So I replaced the lift pump and bled it, did not make a difference. I also changed the rubbers in the nuts on the steel fuel lines at the same time as I had a small leak which is now sealed up. So now it has me confused. I can park it inside my garage (usually around 0 to 2deg C with the heat off) and it will still do it. Is there another way to bleed this, could air still be in it somehow? I have straight fuel coming out the top bleeder on the filter. I've checked the timing and it's bang on 27deg btdc with #1 valves closed. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Hi Ian,

I have a 6610, it is real cold blooded.

I had the injection pump fixed, seems like timing was a little slow, how did you check timing?

For the timing check I removed the valve cover, turned it over by hand to get both valves closed on #1 cyl and push rods were loose. Removed inspection cover to view flywheel mark, it was right in the middle of the 26 and 28 mark. And with the front pump cover removed I could see the mark in there. That's as far as I went. I was debating playing with the 3 bolts a tiny amount as it does smoke a bit even when warmed up, and smells like raw fuel. I have not done a compression test on it but it seems to be fine because it does start easy enough just won't stay running. Thanks for the reply

It looks to me like there may be a compression problem. I think your next step should be a compression test if you're 100% sure there's no air getting into the fuel System anywhere. Also be sure you've got oil in the injector pump. Cold weather usually tells the tale on a compression issue. I've got a JD 410 that I used to have to put ether in to crank in the winter after rebuilding that engine it cranks fine in winter now good luck.

If you are using the cold start button on the Minimec pump it may be
sticking in. When she first starts, pull and release trhe stop control
quickly or gently tug the button with a pair of pliers.

This is a common problem with the Minimec, also check the oil in the
governor housing. If it has not been changed it may be a mixture of oil
and diesel. This is normal but the oil should be changed evey time you
change the engine oil.

Hey guys, thanks. I may have to do a compression test I'm just stumped as to why it starts so easy at first if it is low on compression. There is not much blow-by coming out the vent pipe either. I changed the oil in the injector pump last year and changed it again when I replaced the lift pump on the side of it last week. As for the cold start button, I don't always use it just when it's really cold but it seems to function as it should. The tractors been sitting for a few days in the garage with no heat on and I tried it today after work without pushing the button just using the thermostart for 30sec and it still fires and shuts down.

The tractor starts fine but will only stay running for about 2-3 seconds then dies out. It does this several times before staying running.

Click to expand...

If after several times it does stay running then I doubt air in the lines is the problem. I don't have any experience with the minimec pump, but it sounds like Majorman does and his explanation sounds reasonable.

Thanks Sean. What I meant by air in the system was it may be sucking air in from somewhere, because I've done the proper bleed procedure and got the air out. And as far as the cold start button goes, like I said I don't use it all the time and it will act the same either way. I also would like to add that this engine doesn't seem to use any oil, or very minimal because it hasn't dropped any on the dipstick in about 80-100hrs.

Something may be sticking inside the pump not related to the cold start button. How far back does your knowledge of the maintenance history go? If there was a long period of no oil changes in the pump, there could be gunk inside the pump causing things to stick that a regular oil change isn't going to clean out and free up.

As for maintenance history I don't have much for records. I bought it off an old man in Quebec, he had a little hobby deer farm. He always had it maintained at the new Holland dealer, and it shows because anything done to it are all OE parts, filters and such. He never worked on it himself. I drained the pump last year and like majorman said it was a mix of oil and diesel fuel, but I wouldn't say it was dirty by any means.

Hey guys, I played with the pump gear a bit tonight. It appears it was squirting a bit too advanced. I loosened the 3 bolts and tapped the pump hub counter-clockwise a C hair and tried it, made it a little better. Another small tap and tightened again (I scribed a mark where it was sitting when I started so I wouldn't lose it). Started great and is not smoking not smelling of raw fuel. Sounds much better idling as well, I found it was very clacky before. I ran into this same issue when setting pump timing on my vw diesel after changing the timing belt so I'm aware of the signs of too far ahead or back and this one seems spot on now. Took it for a small drive up the road to warm it up, has more power now and alot smoother running (It used to die out on me a bit shifting between 2nd to 3rd gear on the high side of the dual power, now it just chugs along. I parked it outdoors for the night it's supposed to be -14 so tomorrow will be a perfect trial. Crossing my fingers!

I believe I may have solved my own problem.

Tried it this morning at -15c, the block heater was not plugged in. Pushed the button on the pump and used thermostart for 30 seconds. It started right up, ran quite rough for about 5 seconds with lots of black smoke then cleared right up and stayed running!

Hi all,
My tractor starts/runs alot better now than it ever has.
That being said I was checking fluids and noticed the hyd/rearend oil was at the bottom of the safe line, so I added a gallon of Hyd 32 as I thought that's what it took. Then I got reading and realized I should have used a common sump THF. Would those two fluids mix well for just a top-up? The previous owner had the fluids/filters changed in it at the dealer before I bought it last year. [/img]

I'm not sure what "Hyd 32" is, but if it is just hydraulic fluid without any additives for wet brakes or clutches then I would drain the entire sump and replace with the proper fluid. There are brake disks and the PTO clutch pack immersed in the fluid in that rear end, and they need the proper additives in the fluid, or the brakes and PTO clutch can deteriorate prematurely, and the material from the deterioration may clog up the hydraulics.

I dont think 2 gals will do any harm. If its just hyd fluid and no additives, the additives in the rest of the fluid will mix. And additives get depleted over the life of the fluid anyway, extra are added to start with.

I would be worried if it was an AW hydrulic fluid as they have lots of additives and some that might make the dual power clutches and pto clutches slip as they make it TOOOOOOO slick. But again, two gallons in a 13 gallon sump would be dilluted down to a pretty low level and probably not harm it.


I would in the future... only add the appropriate rated fluids for wet clutches and brakes to make sure you have no problems.

Hydraulic 32 is just a lighter weight hydraulic fluid with no additives, I only added 1 gallon to top it up. The rest I'm assuming was filled with the correct stuff at the new Holland dealer. Probably next summer I will drain it again and refill with THF. Thanks

Also, I'm assuming you're supposed to check the level with fluid warm, engine off?