7710 II alternator

edhOH

Member
Can anyone tell me the proper alternator for a late model 7710 series II tractor? I finally got the time to take off the alternator and have it tested, it is bad. After seeing the wire cluster on the tractor and talking the guy at the electrical shop, I am wondering if I have the correct one? It does mate up to the existing bolt pattern on the tractor, but there are several wires that were not hooked up, with a couple of them looking like factory wires coming out of the pig tail.

The only connections were to the batt terminal and a small spade connector, right next to two larger spade connectors, all three were recessed into the alternator.

He had multiple different numbers in his book, one of which did match up to the alternator in the picture. However, I am fairly certain I have a later model tractor based on some other parts I have replaced. the picture he could find for the last 4 years the model was produced in no way matched the alternator I had.

Also discussed the option of going to a 1 wire Delco set up. It looks like I may need to fab up a bracket if I go that route. Opinions on this welcomed.

thanks,

Evan
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should have mentioned....the two wires I am holding were the only two hooked up. the others were hanging loose and never appeared to be hooked up anywhere.
 
I have a 5610 with alternator that looks just like that.

Mine has a 3 wire plug that connects to the recessed area with retainer clip. 2 larger brown wires that are charge output and a smaller wire (brown with yellow stripe) that connects to the smaller tab. It comes from the charge indicator light on the dash.

Mine also has a wire (brown with green stripe) that connects to the spade in the plastic protector. It comes from a battery temp sensing resistor under the battery tray. My system will not charge if this wire is not intact. If this was not connected on your tractor or when alternator was tested that would make it show no charge.

Do not get a one wire Delco, get the 3 wire. If you use a one wire you will lose the charge indicator function on your instrument panel.

On Delco 3 wire, Charge wire to output stud of alternator, #1 pin on edge plug to wire from charge light, and loop #2 wire on edge plug to charge output.
 
I use the Delco 10si.... basically an alt for a 1980 chevy pickup...

You will probably have to take a grinder to the mounting bracket and relieve it enough to fit the Delco into it since it's slightly larger than what you have. Otherwise the mounting holes and alignment are OK.

The large wire in your pic is the battery wire and that goes to the BAT terminal on the Delco. The black one with the red terminal is likely the indicator wire... although that could be the one in your fingers. To find the indicator wire... turn the key on and ground the wires one at a time (but NOT the BAT wire). Whichever one causes the light to come on is the indicator wire. That goes to terminal 1 on the Delco. Terminal 2 on the Delco gets doubled back to the BAT terminal as it's a charge voltage sensor wire unless you want to run it to the starter + which may not be a bad idea if you have huge electrical loads on the tractor. Otherwise the BAT terminal will be ok. Get the proper pigtail for the alt, heat shrink all the connections and you're good to go...

Rod
 
OK....should also have mentioned this after searching the topic in the archives:

the battery temp sensor has been gone long before I bought the tractor. Someone has done a number on the wiring of the tractor, but up until the no-charge indicator light came on a few months back, everything was working fine. Somehow, the previous owner had wired it to charge and bypass the batt temp sensor.

it is a bit of mess, but it isn't too bad. I just want it to work, I'm not concerned about originality.
 
Somewhere in the archives within the past few months, I posted a pic of the wiring for this alternator. I'd look it up myself if the search feature on this forum was a little bit more user friendly.

If you wish to retain the OEM alternator, the battery temp circuit has to be present, either with an actual temp sensor in the circuit, or else a resistor substituted in its place.
 

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