1971 Ford 4500 tlb

ptfarmer · Jan 3, 2017

Got the engine out of my 4500 tlb, besides the number 1 rod bearing being toast the rest looks really good considering. I have been looking around the Ford section here, and noticed quite a few Fords have had a bearing failure of some sort. Seems like the cranks aren't isn't getting enough oil, I just wonder if they are putting too oil up top. The FE, and Cleveland engines used in Ford cars, and trucks have the same problem. We use oil restrictors in racing engines going to the cam which helps the crank bearings live much longer.

Fordfarmer · Jan 3, 2017

The '65 and newer Ford engines have good oiling systems. I've only seen one failed bearing in these engines, and read about maybe 3-4. The
one in my garage right now failed due to a rounded-off oil pump drive shaft...after almost 50 years of use. Restrictors might be the way
to go in a racing engine, but not here. My 4600 (9800+ hours), 7600 (8000+ hours) and 7000 (13000+ hours) are all running standard main
and rod bearings. The 7600 is still running factory bearings.

Bern · Jan 3, 2017

Comparing automotive engines to tractor engines is apples to oranges - other than the "FORD" on the engine block, nothing else is the same, either in parts or design. The 201 tractor engine has a more than adequate lube system (the TW is another story), and I would not lay the blame of a spun bearing on the design of the system, nor would I try to modify it. Likely the failure was due to contamination or something similar. This would make sense if the other bearings looked OK.

ptfarmer · Jan 4, 2017

I the guy I bought it from said he quit using it when it started smoking, and knocking. I got it down to the short block today, all three of the cylinder bores look pretty good, and they all have the same little ridge. I have to make a adapter plate for my engine stand to bolt the block to before I can take the rest of it apart.

Destroked 450 · Jan 4, 2017

I take the flywheel off and remove the back cam gear if it has one, then stand the engine on it's end on some 6x6 blocks of wood, normally I use three , one one each side of the crank and one near the top of the block to keep it from tilting over backward.
With the engine on it's end you can disassemble everything but the crank, when you get to that point tilt the engine backward onto a couple of 2x4's or larger blocks of wood to make crank removable easier.

Having it on a engine stand makes reassembly easier, it's also easier on my old knees.

ptfarmer · Jan 4, 2017

I take engines apart in the bed of my truck, once they are apart, and out the bed of my truck a quick trip to the car wash my "work table" is clean again. I can sit on the bed rails while taking it apart so my knees don't hate me the next day.

1971 Ford 4500 tlb

ptfarmer

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Fordfarmer

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Bern

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ptfarmer

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Destroked 450

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ptfarmer

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