Ford 850 - sure seal on one axle...confused

JB93

Member
I am working on my new to me Ford 850. First job is to replace axle seals and brakes. The left drum was pretty clean. The right drum was loaded with grease. After pulling the axles I found that the right axle had a Sure Seal on the back of it where the rubber had delaminated from the metal can.

From everything I have read, the Sure Seal is only used as an alternative to replacing the outer seal on 2N, 9N and 8N tractors...not the 800 series.

I pulled the Sure Seal off. Was planning to just go ahead and replace the inner seals (inside the hub) and put the axles back in.

I just don't know why that Sure Seal would have been on there. It makes me concerned that I need to cut off the collar and remove the bearing and replace the outer seals.

Can anyone help me with what is proper steps?
 

Wild guess..

but a bad bearing caused the first seal to fail and also the second seal to fail... base on rubber being off.....???? or sure seal was wrong size to begin with???

with collar, you cant see if there is a worn groove. what is (or was) the bearing play?
 
So called Sure Seals are for early model 8N tractors. They are not compatible with later model Ford tractors.

That said, hundred series Ford tractors use oil seals on the axles to keep the differential oil from the axle bearings, which must be packed with axle bearing grease. The outer "seal" is simply a back up to help keep the axle bearing grease off of the brake shoes.

If the inner seal leaks, it will wash the axle bearing grease from the axle bearing. Moreover, the oil and diluted grease will work its way past the outer "seal" and contaminate the brake shoes.

The only way to repair such condition is to bite the bullet and disassemble the axle/bearing assembly in order to replace the inner oil seal. Of course, you will want to replace the outer "seal" at the same time. Be CERTAIN to properly pack the axle bearing before reassembly.

Dean
 


Thanks Bill and Dean. I was afraid I would have to bite the bullet when I saw the Frankenstein seal arrangement. I was hoping someone would bring unexpected good news. Alas...
 
Follow the procedures in the Ford or I & T manual.

Its not a fun job but it is required to properly fix the problem.

FWIW: What you learn doing this side will make the next side easier. Once both sides are properly done, you will likely never need to do either again.

Dean
 
After you have done both sides, you will NOT WANT to do it again for a while.. If you are not affluent with a torch, it would be advisable to find some one that is so the hold collar and bearing can be cut from the shaft to gain access to the outer seal. Or if you could find old FORD NH dealer that has the proper tools ,recommended by Ford, for this job would be the ideal situation. That way the bearing might be saved
 
(quoted from post at 13:02:49 12/24/16) After you have done both sides, you will NOT WANT to do it again for a while.. If you are not affluent with a torch, it would be advisable to find some one that is so the hold collar and bearing can be cut from the shaft to gain access to the outer seal. Or if you could find old FORD NH dealer that has the proper tools ,recommended by Ford, for this job would be the ideal situation. That way the bearing might be saved

Read through the process in my shop manual. I think I agree with your viewpoint. I'll see if I can find someone local to do this and stick with the remaining jobs I have the tools and know-how to accomplish.
 
Sure seals are only for 2n's and 9n's. I've used them and they work very well.

To change the seals you have to split the bearing collars. I split the collars myself. I won't put them back together myself
anymore. The local welding shop will do it for me and only charge me $30 for both axles.
 
Next question...standard size tires are 13.6-28. Would 12.4-28 also work reasonably well for a working tractor? I am looking for good used ones...so would be good to have couple of size options available depending on what I find. Thanks.
 
12.4s will work on your 850 but are a full size undersized.

13.6s are the standard OEM size but some folks use 14.9s.

12.4s are standard OEM size for 6** tractors and NAAs.

Dean
 
Drillsd both collars and split. Propane torch heated inner race
Of bearing. Turned axle upside down and banged it on piece
Of plywood on top of concrete garage floor. Done deals.

My manual says heat collars to 800 degrees to slide back on. I got nothing for that. Is broil in the oven at 500-550 hot enough with a little tapping or maybe self cleaning oven feature which I read is closer to 900f.

I only want to do this once. Bad job
 

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