'75 Ford 3000 injector pump leak

Dchilds

Member
I know I'm not the only one ever to have this problem but I need some guidance. My injector pump is leaking slowly but steadily. Originally I intended to shut off my fuel valve and not worry about it. Now I'm reading around and it sounds like it may not be too hard of a fix.

The pump leaks mainly from where the throttle linkage hooks up. It might also be leaking from around where the top half splits from the bottom. Is this a simple job or does the whole unit need to be torn down? I don't want to rebuild this thing if I don't have to.


I've taken pictures and pointed with the pen to the wet spots:




Can anyone tell me what kind of pump this is in case I'm trying to buy parts?
 
It is a CAV pump.
I haven't done those seals but have had a
few covers off.
Not hard to do.
There is a spring underneath that goes from
the cover to the "tombstone" in there that
you have to disconnect. A bit hard to get at
but doable.
Very important that you write down which of
the 3 holes on the tombstone the spring
connected to so you get it back in the
correct hole.
Any pump shop should be willing to sell you
the seals and gasket.
I bought a couple of lower seals and that
gasket a few years ago and they were not
expensive.
It's worth doing if the tractor runs good
otherwise. I did it without removing the
pump. But i pressure washed it off real good
beforehand. You don't want to get any dirt
in there at all.
Let us know how it goes.
 
(quoted from post at 14:04:44 11/28/16) It is a CAV pump.
I haven't done those seals but have had a
few covers off.
Not hard to do.
There is a spring underneath that goes from
the cover to the "tombstone" in there that
you have to disconnect. A bit hard to get at
but doable.
Very important that you write down which of
the 3 holes on the tombstone the spring
connected to so you get it back in the
correct hole.
Any pump shop should be willing to sell you
the seals and gasket.
I bought a couple of lower seals and that
gasket a few years ago and they were not
expensive.
It's worth doing if the tractor runs good
otherwise. I did it without removing the
pump. But i pressure washed it off real good
beforehand. You don't want to get any dirt
in there at all.
Let us know how it goes.

Okay great. It's runs really well. That one seems to be the last of the leaks I need to track down (cross my fingers).

Still interested in hearing from anyone who has undertaken this project!
 
The pump on my combine leaked at the throttle and the shut off. 2 o-rings on each. That spring that you unhook has different holes on each end to be watched. That sets the high speed limit so if it comes unhooked where you didn't expect, you'll need to watch the engine high speed and perhaps move the spring to a different hole on one end or the other to get the right high speed limit.
 
4 of the same part number o-rings and the cover gasket. R&R as described by others here. I know I stock the o-rings and gasket at the New
Holland dealership. It's a cheap fix if you are clean and careful.
 
I did it on mine. Procedure is as others describe; keep it clean and the spring in the same holes. Getting the levers off the shafts may
be a pain but after that the cover goes straight up after the bolts are undone (shafts stay put). Shafts have 3 'o' rings each IIRC. The
rings harden with age is why they leak. Can be tricky to get the shut-off shaft pin to engage the push rod on reassembly. Be careful
when scraping the old gasket to keep it out of the pump.
a244001.jpg

a244002.jpg

a244003.jpg
 
On a CAV pump NEVER think of a leak as just a leak. The o rings are leaking because of their age. They are the messenger. They are trying to tell you how old the main drive seal is. The main drive seal does not fail all of a sudden. It will leak fuel into the crankcase very slowly, but always will increase with time. If you have a tractor that uses a little oil now and then you may not notice you are not adding as much as before. Some times a guy doesn't notice the oil level a pinch higher than normal. It only takes a little fuel to really thin out the oil enough to cause bearing failure. That fuel leak is trying to do you a favor. My advise is don't shoot the messenger. Spend the money and get the whole pump resealed. It doesn't cost much or take much time. Little Ford tractors have gravity feed to the pump. This means the weight of the fuel is always pushing on this seal. Running or not. I repair my share of CAVs that are now leaking into the crankcase. Not sure I have ever seen one that didn't leak on the outside first. If you change the o rings yourself keep a close eye on your dipstick. CAV uses a o ring made of different rubber than standard o rings. If you feel it, it is slightly stiffer too. I use some grease on them when I reinstall them. This helps with bushing wear. Good luck,,, Al 231/757/0064
 
(quoted from post at 19:59:27 11/28/16) On a CAV pump NEVER think of a leak as just a leak. The o rings are leaking because of their age. They are the messenger. They are trying to tell you how old the main drive seal is. The main drive seal does not fail all of a sudden. It will leak fuel into the crankcase very slowly, but always will increase with time. If you have a tractor that uses a little oil now and then you may not notice you are not adding as much as before. Some times a guy doesn't notice the oil level a pinch higher than normal. It only takes a little fuel to really thin out the oil enough to cause bearing failure. That fuel leak is trying to do you a favor. My advise is don't shoot the messenger. Spend the money and get the whole pump resealed. It doesn't cost much or take much time. Little Ford tractors have gravity feed to the pump. This means the weight of the fuel is always pushing on this seal. Running or not. I repair my share of CAVs that are now leaking into the crankcase. Not sure I have ever seen one that didn't leak on the outside first. If you change the o rings yourself keep a close eye on your dipstick. CAV uses a o ring made of different rubber than standard o rings. If you feel it, it is slightly stiffer too. I use some grease on them when I reinstall them. This helps with bushing wear. Good luck,,, Al 231/757/0064

Everyone thank you all for the thoughts. Al, I'm interested in hearing more about what a rebuild entails. Is there an instructional video or a particular manual that describes this process in detail? What would be the cost of me removing the pump and mailing it off for a rebuild?
 
(quoted from post at 21:56:07 11/28/16) I disagree. I've replaced many throttle/shutoff lever shaft o-rings, and never had an issue with a driveshaft seal down the road.



I'm leaning towards replacing the o-rings and gasket for now. I will keep a close eye on the oil level and will change it regularly.

Is there a particular kit that works well or should I just buy all separately?
 
Just my two cents, but when the top cover starts leaking, the head seal and drive hub seal are not far behind. I agree with Al, best to do a complete reseal in the long run. I've even had some Perkins and Ford CAV DPA pumps that the only leak was the drive seal..
 
(quoted from post at 18:22:52 11/29/16) Ebay sells the gasket and o-rings for around $11.00 Done 4 or 5 of them.

I've got the rebuild kit on the way - cost $25. Depending on how brace I am feeling the day it arrives, I'm either going to have a stab at doing it all or just the o rings and top gasket.
 
For anyone considering this repair or interested in learning what it entails, watch the video I provided the link to. I worked through the pump using the video as a guide and it worked out great.
 

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