73' Ford 4000 lift cylinder- anyone try to hone?

ggb3

Member
Hi Y'all,
I am doing major work on my 4000 and, much to my disgust, I found some very light scoring on the lift cylinder to where my fingernail
just catches on the worst scores. I am already looking at a couple of grand and really want to avoid the $600 plus for a new one. What
do y'all think my chances of success are honing the cylinder with extra-fine stones on a hone? With steel rings, it would be a no-
brainer, however, with an o-ring and what I think is a leather back-up ring/wiper it may be worse than leaving it be. The book states,
any scoring, cylinder must be replaced, no options....... What say y'all?

I have not yet removed the piston so there may be more, but at this point, the scoring looks to be at the last 3rd of the cylinder
(the bottom of the piston's travel (up position of the 3 pt).

Thank you and I hope you and yours have a happy and safe holiday season,
George
 
Just offering food for thought as I just went through rebuilding the lift on my 3000.

It would be worth the $600 to me just to be sure I wouldn't need to remove and install that durn cover again when it didn't work after I was done. On the other hand if the new cylinder doesn't have the valves installed you will spend additional $ on special tools to remove and re-install the valves.

Tough decision and hope someone on here can give you more insight.
 
Well, you kind of nailed a big consideration.... If it were just the $600 and be done, I would go for it. However, worryin' over the control valve is what has me looking for options. The book states the control valve bushing is sized and fitted to that particular cylinder and then the different sizes of control valve are fitted to the bushing; to just have a slight resistance with no binding.
Further, just because you have a "blue" bushing, doesn't necessarily mean a "blue" control valve will be the right size. (I just used blue as an example). I take this to read, I would need a selection of each to find which one I needed......

George
 
I have honed quite a few of those cylinders. Unless the scoring is really deep, it will not hurt the operation except for some bleed down if you left the lift arms in the up position. The rubber o-ring will fill any shallow scores when pressure is applied.
I would hone it and replace the o-ring and backup ring. Will work fine.
 
Well RickB and JTwat, hone it is.....

Thanks all,
George

No offense intended, I did have to look twice to make sure I did not mis-spell your handle.....
 
I took mine to a hydraulic shop here in town...had them hone it and fit an oversized industrial "u" ring to the piston. It was snug to say the least but it worked great with no leaks in the cylinder. Cost was about $75. Just another option...
 
I take the glaze off mine with 120 grit emery cloth. Since it's rubber and not cast iron sealing, I don't want it very rough.
 
Yeah.... I've honed one in the past. It's worked reasonably well. It still creeps but it's lift performance is not badly effected. So... for that, provided I wasn't being too fussy... I'd just hone it out. It'll probably do you another 40 years if the gash isn't too deep.

Rod
 

I honed the one I put on my 4500, I used some 600 grit stones I had for honing race engines. It leaks down over a couple days but has no problem lifting and doesn't jump up and down from rapid oil lose.
 

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