Changing coolant ford 3000?

BobReeves

Member
Guess nothing on theses old tractors is easy, on the down side of giving my 71 3000 diesel some much deserved TLC. Last item on my list was replacing the antifreeze, know it hasn't been done in the 10+ years I have owned it and figure it's due.

So OK I drain the engine, found a petcock on the side of the block and got about 4 gallons give or take. Book says 17.something quarts. That part went well. Now I start filling it back up and after two gallons radiator is full and it won't take any more even after letting it set for several hours and starting it. Only let it run for a few minutes for fear of overheating the block.

So what is the trick to making sure the block and radiator are both full of coolant?
 

You may have to remove the T'stat. The tiny hole in it could be plugged so that the air can't vent out of the block and head.
 
Makes sense, is the thermostat and gasket something I can pick up at O'Rileys or does it have to come from NH? If I remove it might as well install a new one.
 
Thanks, Called New Holland to check on the thermostat and asked about an additive. They just tried to sell me branded antifreeze saying it had everything in it that it needed. No real surprise..

What additive do I need to buy?
 
New Holland Part# showing on their coolant conditioner is FW-15. Napa I believe has an equivalent as well, I've used it in our 3600.
 

Found this at O'Reilly's, says it does everything.

42723.jpg
 
I run FLeetGuard DCA4 conditioner. New diesel rated coolant should have the correct additive package.... ~Should~ being a very large word. These blocks were known to perforate back in the day... even when new, with new coolant... so I always just add a bottle of conditioner. As far as filling those things is concerned... usually I find you need to run them for a bit to get them to burp, then top it off. If the thermostat hasn't been changed in a dogs age, it's not going to hurt to change it. I use 188 (88c) stats in the diesel engines.

Rod
 
Did you drain the radiator and block, or just the block?
If just the block, you got more like 2 gallons out of it, not 4.
 
Just opened the petcock on the block, drained into a 5 gallon catch pan and let it drain overnight. From the looks of what is in the pan I got really close to 4 gallons.

Auto mechanic friend said to raise the front up which would be pretty easy to do with the loader. May also try hitting the thermostat with a heat gun in hopes it will open and let the air out.

I did pick up a new thermostat from the local NH dealer. New one has no hole and would guess the one in it doesn't either.
 
If you only opened the one drain... I'd wager there's a good gallon in there yet. I sometimes pull the lower rad hose off the rad but given you have a loader on a 3000 I'd probably avoid that too.

Rod
 
Ya working around that loader is a real PTA but in the long run happy to have it.

Tomorrow before I get too carried away, I will put what I drained out into jugs and see exactly how much it is.
 
Thermostat can be found at parts store. Take old one out and take it with you. Get the 50/50 mix coolant and fill radiator to top. Start tractor and let it run until thermostat opens and the air in block is released. Top off radiator about 1 inch below top. If you want to add the additive, get it at NAPA.
 
Well I now feel like an idiot, just goes to show how perceptions can be really really wrong. You guys hit it on the head, I only had a little over two gallons in my drain pan.

What came out was pretty clean and still green so I'm calling it good with just replacing half of it. I will go ahead and add the conditioner after I have ran it to be sure everything is mixed well.
 

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