3000 diesel valve adjustment?

BobReeves

Member
Trying to adjust the valves on my 71 3000 diesel, IT manual says to turn the engine till the TDC mark on the flywheel is lined up with the timing mark. I removed the inspection cover and found what I think are timing marks but they are numbers. I set it to '0' centered in the inspection hole (don't see a fixed timing mark). I don't think I have it set for #1 at TDC as some of the valves they say to adjust in both cases are still tight.

One valve that seems to be all the way closed is the #3 intake and it's way too tight, I gave up when I wasn't able to get a .011 feeler gauge in the gap.

1. Is there actually a "TDC" mark on the flywheel?
2. Trying to do this by myself using a remote switch to bump the starter. Is there an easier way to turn the engine over while on your back looking in the inspection hole? I did jog it with a screwdriver to get it right on the '0' mark but wouldn't care to turn it 180 using a screwdriver.
3. Do valves tighten up with wear? No way can I get a .016 gauge in any of the valves that seem closed.

Thanks..
 
The "0" mark on the flywheel is the same as TDC. That said, I'm sure the IT manual instructions are confusing at best, so here's how I do it:

Put a wrench or socket on the front pulley. If no loader, you can go through the front axle pivot pin with a long extension. Turn the engine until you see both valves for #1 cylinder rock. This is the point where one valve just finishes closing, and the other just starts going down. Then turn the engine exactly one turn, and you can now adjust both valves for #1 cylinder. Repeat these steps for #2 & 3 cylinders, and you're done.

I'm sure that critics of my procedure will say that this method requires too many turns of the crank to get the job done, however it's one of the least confusing methods of adjusting valves on a 3-cylinder engine, and if you turn the engine with the front pulley, it's not hard.

Yes, valves can tighten up with wear. If the valves faces pound into the seats, lash will decrease.
 
Sounds like a good procedure to me. More precise than what I usually do... which is rock the engine until I feel the compression peak on the cylinder I'm working on. Otherwise I pull the injectors and use a piece of welding rod...

Rod
 
Thanks, should have stated, it does have a loader. Couldn't see any way to get to the crank pulley without dismantling the front end.

I may go ahead and pull the injector for #1, Had all three out a couple years ago to have them checked/rebuilt and think I may have a spare seal.
 
GOTTERDONE.. Discovered I was looking at the graphic in the IT book wrong and in my mind I was swapping #1 and #3. Once I figured out my error it went well.
 

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