Ford fuel line parts

Tractor is a 69 3400 gasser. PO bypassed the bad fuel pump to gravity feed the carb. Tractor ran rough so I did a full tune up and got a pump. The only bath this poor tractor got appears to be from the rain. Drained the fuel tank to replace the shut off valve and it's filter, put a new sediment bowl on only to find the guy lost the fitting that goes to it on the line from the carb. Pull the carb line off and find its a compression style fitting. Put the line back on, very hard to do with a loader on and ended up cross threading the carb fitting. TAKE the carb off and remove the fitting to find the screen pushed in and gone. Is this fitting still available? I'VE Googled to no end and it seems most places cater to the diesel fuel systems more.

Hoping I don't have to replace the carb to get it. Tractor will see snow clearing on my 1/4 mile driveway and some yard scaping. NO farming or hard construction use. It still has the holley which I know is a love/hate but I need 1st gear and 1/2 throttle most of the time. Also need to check timing but not with this major fuel leak I created.
 
Looks like they use the same prices and codes as the new holland dealers. They don't list the fitting on the carb side though.
 
The fitting on the carb is in the parts drawing for the carb itself if it's the original Holley carb. The part number is E1NN9E588AA. Partspring.com lists 5 in stock at $46.00 each. Messicks says "5-7 business days" and wants $47.61. Partspring having 5 of them means that you should be able to order one through your local New Holland dealership if you have one which can save on the shipping if you're willing to wait for their next regular parts delivery.
 
Thank you for the number, I tried to pull up the carb page but no drawing was listed or my phone wouldn't load it. Holy smokes is it expensive for a few tiny parts. I'M in the wrong business, that's for sure.

Opened the carb up and found little granular beads I'm assuming from ethanol gas, the interior part of the carb (the main airflow portion) is very carboned up. THINK I'm going to let her soak for a few days and try to rebuild it. the floats sound like they have fluid in them but appear to be soldered up real good, is that normal? IF not I'll order new floats as well. Also, the handy measuring tool to set em properly
 
Try these two places for the carb fitting with screen. They may have something that will work or direct you to a place that does. The other fittings are or can be replaced by standard 5/16" compression fittings.

http://www.markscarb.com/

https://robertscarbrepair.com/
 
Thank you bob, I tossed the bits in the truck in hopes of passing a hydraulic store or better hardware store. OFF to those sites now
 
Those little beads are what used to be droplets of water that were
captured by the ethanol. When dried you end up with little hollow balls that look
like rust. Not good. Your floats should be dry. Somehow, "rubber" parts and other
materials can be attacked by ethanol. Try to shut off the fuel and run the carb dry
at the end of each day.

I've tried to always use gas without any ethanol. It's so irritating, that for general use,
I've gone diesel.
 
I figured as much. I run ethenol free in my small engines, this gas tank was full so once I run it out, it's getting ethenol free as well.
 
Let the floats sit out, only one appears to have fluid In it. Found some pin holes in the solder but they didn't leak, found by applying very light squeezing pressure that on the sides has a very small crack. Im draining the gas out then solder the crack and test it. I've seen it work on older small engines so I'll give it a shot. Would be convenient if you could by the individual float sides and re solder to the bracket
 
Small update. Resoldering and tested the float, ok for now. Rebuilt the carb and cleaned everything up. Was able to save the fuel inlet fitting and it doesn't leak. Reinstalled everything and it fired up pretty good for having a dead battery. Ran smoother than before but still choppy at high rpms. It would rev up and hold rpms then just cut out, backfire and rev back up. Float adjustment? Still cuts out when you idle down. Timing is next but its cold and snowing.
 
(quoted from post at 16:46:55 11/19/16) Small update. Resoldering and tested the float, ok for now. Rebuilt the carb and cleaned everything up. Was able to save the fuel inlet fitting and it doesn't leak. Reinstalled everything and it fired up pretty good for having a dead battery. Ran smoother than before but still choppy at high rpms. It would rev up and hold rpms then just cut out, backfire and rev back up. Float adjustment? Still cuts out when you idle down. Timing is next but its cold and snowing.

If it's still gravity feed then that's likely why it can't get enough fuel at high rpm's.
 
That was my though as well. I have a new fuel pump ut no access to a power washer to spray the front of the motor off. There was so much manure packed in every nook and cranny you couldn't tell what was what.
 
Get a good spray on engine degreaser like Gunk and a scrub brush. Spray it on, let it sit a while, brush vigorously and spray off with a hose. Repeat as necessary until the area is clean.
 
Gone through 2 cans haha. No good way to get a brush in there. Spent a few hours scraping with various tools the spray and hose (water pressure sucks) and repeat. It's way better, may see if can load it on a trailer and drag it to the pay and spray
 

You know, I would say most of the members on this board use classic view, not modern.
I rarely use modern but just clicked on it for kicks and saw your post.
So an old thread like this one doesn't even get seen by over half of the members of this board as it's probably 5 pages back on classic.
If you want to get the most views and replies don't update a post that is more than a couple/few days old. Start a new thread.
 

I've found classic to be very confusing with post dates bouncing up and down the thread making it hard to keep up with what has been discussed.
Now I know why I find multiple continuation threads with no idea of what the original subject was about.
On most forms I visit if the thread is very old it's probably dead and if the OP wants to update it all they have to do is look it up in their posts.
 

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