71 Ford 2000 Shutting Off

nosajb15af

New User
71 Ford 2000 tractor 3 cyl gas. Will start and run for a random amount of time then start sputtering and shuts off. It cannot be restarted for a bit, but will fire right back up 15 min later and run for a minute or two more. New distributor, coil, plugs, wires. When it is sputtering and struggling, black smoke shoots from exhaust. Was about to order a new harness, maybe a electrical problem. I was also tossing the idea of a fuel clog, but i get great fuel flow to the carb. Any ideas?
 
Black smoke leads me to believe you have too much fuel.
Take the air cleaner hose loose and see where you choke is.
Open or half closed?

You can eliminate spark by checking it when it won't restart.
If you have good spark but it won't start then it's not spark.
More likely a fuel/carb issue. Possibly a plugged air cleaner.

Have you priced an original harness for these things? OUCH!
I was going to replace part of mine on my 3000.
The part that runs over the tank to the instrument cluster.
I think that little piece was $200. Right close to that anyway.

Aftermarket harnesses are cheaper but they state that they
will not plug into the original harness so you have change the
entire original harness out with the aftermarket one.
I ended up repairing mine.
 
Just bought a new coil and key switch from YT, should be in by Friday. Ill get spark tester as well. I like this tractor, just need it running right. Is it mandatory to run the resistor wire for the coil if i buy a true 12v coil?
 
true 12v coils don't need resistors. If you bought the coil for a 65-75 gasser, it ain't a true 12v coil.

Did you test bypass the resistor wire and run hot from bat to coil to check connections?
 
Will take air cleaner out tomorrow and try, but i removed old key switch and it was in bad shape. Connections were nearly corroded off, i hope that was the
issue. YT should have the new parts in tomorrow. Ill pull the air cleaner too. I bought a cheap inline spark tester to use as well. If everything points to
the carb, is there a better carb to buy vs the oem? Or just rebuild the original?
 
It's usually best to make one change at a time, that way you
know what to un-do if something doesn't work right.

If everything points toward the carb, I prefer to rebuild the
originals if at all possible. Does yours have a Holley on it?
 

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