Just bought a Ford 3000

Dchilds

Member
Hey guys - I thought I?d tell you a bit about what I have going on in my garage down in Dallas, TX.

My family has a small piece of land that we?ve needed a tractor on for years but just hadn?t ever sprung for one. Being a working (desk job) guy for eight or so years now, I managed to find room in the budget for a new-to-me Ford 3000.


I believe it to be a ?65 vintage. It?s a diesel 3cyl. With an 8 speed tranny and power steering (although that part isn't working at the moment). She sure isn?t pretty but I think I got a fairly good deal on her for $1,850 with a mower and boom pole. I bought it from a guy who buys and sells them. I feel like he probably makes a few hundred dollars on these transactions but that didn?t rub me the wrong way. He got the tractor out of the pasture and got it running. He pretty much stopped there. Like a lot of cheap Craigslist tractors, it had been the victim of neglect for many years ? likely sitting in the pasture uncovered and subject to the elements. Among other things, there was a severe diesel and power steering fluid leak. I?m going to be the wrench turner for this operation and this is all new to me. Forgive my ignorance in advance.


On the project list is the following:
- Fix fuel leak
- Fix power steering leak and change filter
- Rebuild steering ram cylinders
- Fix minor PTO shaft leak
- Change oil/filter, trans fluid, rear diff/hyd fluid
- Swap radiator hoses out
- Change coolant
- Change belt
- Replace air filter assembly
- Replace keyed ignition


So far I?m finding terribly old, used fluids with or without water present (water has been limited to tranny without signs of any real corrosion). I?m also finding greasy dirt?a lot of greasy dirt. It makes me want to take my power washer out and just go to town on it ? although I understand this is bad for most things motorized so I likely won?t.

Long story short, I?m pretty excited about the project. I will certainly have questions along the way and will probably post them separately as they come up (if I can?t find an answer via search).
 
Nice!
Those are excellent small tractors.
And the diesels just run and run.
Some thoughts on your to do list.
I have no qualms about pressure washing the He77 out of them. But do it before you change the fluids so that any water that penetrates the machine will be drained out when you chainge the fluids.
There's not much rebuilding the steering cylinders.
You can get new rod seals from the dealer but that's about all. But usually that's all they need.
Yes, replace the filter in the steering reservoir.
And pull the cowl and go through the steering column. Replace the upper and lower seals in it and clean out any rust or crud in the hyd block. They are pretty easy to fix and we can help if you need it.
And if you are into the steering box that far at least turn it upside down overnight and drain the old oil out of the bottom end. I always take them all apart and replace the sector shaft seals too. Then refill with new 90W. None of that is expensive or hard. PS is a great option. I would cry to have to go back to manual steering.
Pto seal is child's play.
Don't forget to add coolant conditioner to the radiator to prevent cavitation in your cylinder walls.
New airfilters arent expensive, nor is just the cup if that is rotted out. You can soak the filter in a couple of gals of diesel fuel to get them clean inside. They sell new filters here at YT. They fit just fine.
Got photos of the tractor?
We like photos here.
 
Sounds like a good deal to me. Congrats!

I'm with Ultradog, power wash it. I do all of mine.
It did bite me on my recently purchased 3000 though.
I apparently hooked the battery back up too soon afterwards and
blew the fuse so the gauges wouldn't work. Give it time to dry.

I replaced the power steering seal in the steering column he
referred to also. The seal is a cake walk if you've ever changed
a seal. Getting to it on the other hand, is a bit of a chore.

Mainly because you have to remove the steering wheel and all
the tin cowling beneath it to get to it. Mine came off with a die
grinder and an improvised puller that I fashioned after one that
Ultradog posted before. The picture was a test fit, I put a
muffler clamp around where the hose clamp is before putting
pressure on it. 1 and 1/2 inch pipe coupling. The steering
wheel still wouldn't come off with out splitting it though.

All total it took me about four hours to replace $10 worth
of parts but the power steering no longer leaks.

41568.jpg


41569.jpg


41570.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 17:49:02 10/17/16) Sounds like a good deal to me. Congrats!

I'm with Ultradog, power wash it. I do all of mine.
It did bite me on my recently purchased 3000 though.
I apparently hooked the battery back up too soon afterwards and
blew the fuse so the gauges wouldn't work. Give it time to dry.

I replaced the power steering seal in the steering column he
referred to also. The seal is a cake walk if you've ever changed
a seal. Getting to it on the other hand, is a bit of a chore.

Mainly because you have to remove the steering wheel and all
the tin cowling beneath it to get to it. Mine came off with a die
grinder and an improvised puller that I fashioned after one that
Ultradog posted before. The picture was a test fit, I put a
muffler clamp around where the hose clamp is before putting
pressure on it. 1 and 1/2 inch pipe coupling. The steering
wheel still wouldn't come off with out splitting it though.

All total it took me about four hours to replace $10 worth
of parts but the power steering no longer leaks.

41568.jpg


41569.jpg


41570.jpg

What's the white cab next to the corn field go to?
 
What's the white cab next to the corn field go to?
As soon as I get the snowplow mounted on this 3000, it will get
mounted on this tractor. It came off the 335I setting out there
next to it. That's another project that I haven't gotten to yet. :roll:
 
Thanks, guys! Well, I've got parts on the way - and quite a few of them. I managed to get the cowling off as well as the hood so I could access everything. I tore the steering down and found both column seals are not in good shape - have those headed my way. I got down into the block just to check it out - all appears well in there. Hopefully I got all those little parts inserted back in there correctly - no reason to think otherwise. I think I need to replace the seals on the gearbox arms while I'm at it. I also ordered seals for the rams but that install may come a little later.

I am going to get the power steering all back together along with the new filter and see what, if anything, leaks and go from there on that front.

PTO seal is next.

I drained all my fluids (besides coolant) already. I'm waiting on the PTO seal before I re-fill the pumpkin. Engine oil looked good, tranny was full of water but little rust, rear end looked good. Sight/check plug came out of the rear end easily but I had to weld a bolt on to the tranny plug to get enough purchase on it to crack it loose. It was rusted and rounded - great combo! All is well at the moment.

One thing giving me heartburn is the clutch. I've read enough to realize the two-stage clutch is screwed up. PTO won't disengage at full pedal depression and won't engage while motor is running without a serious grind. Should I just suck it up and split this thing? My tractor doesn't have the two clevis hole thing to switch to "single action" - just one.

If I need to split it, I'm going to put it back together to make sure everything I am in the process of tackling now is resolved. Then power wash. Then muster up the courage to split it.

Any and all encouragement is greatly appreciated. I will do my best attempt at uploading some photos so you guys can analyze "Ol' Leaky". Oh, one more thing....I really can't figure out the year model. The numbers I pulled off of the tractor tell me it's a '65 but when I look up parts or read on this interweb, I keep seeing reference to "newer generation"-type parts that seem to match my tractor... So I'm confused.
2016-10-13%2018.45.04_zpsutwtljqv.jpg

2016-10-13%2018.44.45_zpsopeluekc.jpg

2016-10-13%2018.51.02_zpsb4zzsv9i.jpg

2016-10-14%2014.58.18_zpszji0qaab.png
 
Oh, one more thing....I really can't figure out the year model. The numbers I pulled off of the tractor tell me it's a '65 but when I look up parts or read on this interweb, I keep seeing reference to "newer generation"-type parts that seem to match my tractor... So I'm confused.

Looks like you might have some mismatched parts from the pictures. The hood definitely has mismatching decals to the nose cone and fuel tank cowling. Where are you getting the numbers that are telling you that it is a 1965 tractor and what are the numbers? I wouldn't believe any numbers on the foil sticker under the hood if the sticker is there, as the hood itself is the part most likely to have been replaced. If the numbers you are looking at are stamped into the flat spot on the bell housing, then it's also possible that the transmission has been swapped at some point and those stamped numbers are from the tractor that the transmission was originally in.
 
Yes, they're the stamped-in numbers that I'm referring to. Numbers are as follows:

C1013C
5A21B
C452991

My interpretation is: "Ford 3000, Ag use, Diesel, Live PTO, 8 Speed, built January 21st, 1965"

Anything amiss?
 
But I'm not sure I agree completely on the mis-match. Here's a better picture of the whole beast. Now, the grill is definitely a custom job but I can't see that anything else doesn't match. Thereby - still confused.
2016-10-19%2012.32.57_zpsijjzbqe2.png
 
C452991 is a 1975 serial number, so the Unit Number (date code) of 5A21B means it was built January 21, 1975, not 1965.
 
Well that's great to know! I wish I could get ten years younger that easily. Does this affect the build in any way?
 
A few things changed from 1965-1975, but most of the tractor design remained the same:

Early sheet metal had louvers on the sides of the hood and a wraparound grill wile the later ones had smooth hood sides like yours and inset grill (original inset grill was 2 pieces, not a single piece like your "custom" grill).

Early power steering pump had a separate reservoir that sat up above the pump body, while the later power steering pumps had the reservoir integrated into the body of the pump.

Early 3000's had an exposed draft spring on the rear of the hydraulic top cover and later 3000's had a housing that covered the spring, while the 2000 had the exposed spring for the entire production run.

The diesel fuel injection pump on the 3000 switched back and forth a few times over the years between the Simms in-line pump to the CAV rotary pump.

I'm sure there a re at least a few more that escape me at the moment.

When looking for part numbers on the New Holland parts site, make sure that the description for the part number includes a date range that matches the assembly date of your tractor.
 
(quoted from post at 14:09:17 10/19/16) A few things changed from 1965-1975, but most of the tractor design remained the same:

Early sheet metal had louvers on the sides of the hood and a wraparound grill wile the later ones had smooth hood sides like yours and inset grill (original inset grill was 2 pieces, not a single piece like your "custom" grill).

Early power steering pump had a separate reservoir that sat up above the pump body, while the later power steering pumps had the reservoir integrated into the body of the pump.

Early 3000's had an exposed draft spring on the rear of the hydraulic top cover and later 3000's had a housing that covered the spring, while the 2000 had the exposed spring for the entire production run.

The diesel fuel injection pump on the 3000 switched back and forth a few times over the years between the Simms in-line pump to the CAV rotary pump.

I'm sure there a re at least a few more that escape me at the moment.

When looking for part numbers on the New Holland parts site, make sure that the description for the part number includes a date range that matches the assembly date of your tractor.

Sean - thanks for all your knowledge. This will save me from making a mistake. I don't think anything that I've bought was production date-sensitive but I'll be finding out shortly.
 
I give up... how do you remove the c clip from the PTO shat? I thought I could do it with pliers and a screwdriver. An hour later it's still on there.
 
(quoted from post at 19:52:27 10/20/16) I give up... how do you remove the c clip from the PTO shat? I thought I could do it with pliers and a screwdriver. An hour later it's still on there.

Shaft...not shat. ????
 

ends of c-clip should be off set or have a hole.. get a small screwdriver, or an icepick pointy object..... and hook the end.. push it to center slightly while lifting.. take a second screwdriver and put behind or under the clip where you lifted it out of the groove.. and continue to work the clip out, in a circular fashion.... it will get easier as you get expierence... (at the end, the clip will pop out and usually fly across the room and forever be lost.)
 
(at the end, the clip will pop out and usually fly across the room and forever be lost.)

Not forever, just until after you buy a replacement and install it. Then the original will mysteriously appear out of thin air. :D
 
I've made some progress but still haven't put new seals in to the steering column. I did manage the PTO seal replacement. I also replaced all the bolts that hold the front end together. I'm not sure of the technical term but there were three bolts on each side holding the front axles on whereby I suppose you can adjust the width of the tractor. One side was sagging and the cause was a nearly sheared off bolt. On the other side, the radius rod bolt in the front was also nearly sheared. Getting that booger out was a chore. All the hardware was replaced with grade 8.

Any specific type of coolant additive or (already conditioned) coolant?

Any tips for replacing the fan belt? I didn't see a tensioner.
 
I would go with grade 5 hardware myself, as that's what the parts drawings specify. I would rather have a bolt fail than a more expensive piece like the radius rod or axle end.
 

Grade 5 bolts are all you need

Use regular antifreeze

There's an slotted adjusting arm on the top front of the generator, loosen the top generator bolt and move the generator in or out to adjust the bolt.
Old school, belt tensioners weren't around when these tractors where built
 
Well...hopefully I don't encounter that but I already bought and
put in the 8's and that's actuallly all I could find in the length I
needed. Admittedly I didn't try all that hard to find 5s.

Does anyone know if the seal in the top and bottom of the
steering column is the same? I ordered both from YT. Top fit
fine. Bottom is way too big and appears that the top seal
would have fit there too.
 
(quoted from post at 04:08:19 10/28/16) Well...hopefully I don't encounter that but I already bought and
put in the 8's and that's actuallly all I could find in the length I
needed. Admittedly I didn't try all that hard to find 5s.

Does anyone know if the seal in the top and bottom of the
steering column is the same? I ordered both from YT. Top fit
fine. Bottom is way too big and appears that the top seal
would have fit there too.

I still can't figure out the seals. Does anyone have a part number for the lower seal that keeps fluid from making its way up the steering column? Or a description I can cut and paste into YT...?
 
(quoted from post at 15:44:33 10/28/16)
(quoted from post at 04:08:19 10/28/16) Well...hopefully I don't encounter that but I already bought and
put in the 8's and that's actuallly all I could find in the length I
needed. Admittedly I didn't try all that hard to find 5s.

Does anyone know if the seal in the top and bottom of the
steering column is the same? I ordered both from YT. Top fit
fine. Bottom is way too big and appears that the top seal
would have fit there too.

I still can't figure out the seals. Does anyone have a part number for the lower seal that keeps fluid from making its way up the steering column? Or a description I can cut and paste into YT...?

I just put a new seal in mine. Bottom of the steering column
it is the upper steering gear seal. Part # E1NN3N632AA
Mine is a 1974 with power steering. It fit fine.
 
(quoted from post at 13:13:22 10/28/16)
(quoted from post at 15:44:33 10/28/16)
(quoted from post at 04:08:19 10/28/16) Well...hopefully I don't encounter that but I already bought and
put in the 8's and that's actuallly all I could find in the length I
needed. Admittedly I didn't try all that hard to find 5s.

Does anyone know if the seal in the top and bottom of the
steering column is the same? I ordered both from YT. Top fit
fine. Bottom is way too big and appears that the top seal
would have fit there too.

I still can't figure out the seals. Does anyone have a part number for the lower seal that keeps fluid from making its way up the steering column? Or a description I can cut and paste into YT...?

I just put a new seal in mine. Bottom of the steering column
it is the upper steering gear seal. Part # E1NN3N632AA
Mine is a 1974 with power steering. It fit fine.


Thanks! Found and ordered one.

Does anyone know how to get the sector shaft off? I have the side covers and steering arms off and I'm not sure how to get to that seal...

 
Got it all apart. Major gear oil gunk and rusty buildup down in the gear housing. I'm glad I tore it down.

More to come later.
 
does anyone know where to buy the seal or o- ring that keeps fluid from coming out around the PTO shifter? I'd like to also buy a gasket for the round plate that's behind the shifter. Links and or part numbers would be great. Thanks guys!
 
The o-ring for the PTO control handle shaft is part number 14457281. The gasket for the round plate is 81818209. You should be able to get both from any New Holland dealer. If you don't have a local New Holland dealer you can get them on-line from either Messicks or partspring.

[u:210bbaf4de]o-ring at Messicks[/u:210bbaf4de]

[u:210bbaf4de]gasket at Messicks[/u:210bbaf4de]

[u:210bbaf4de]o-ring at partspring[/u:210bbaf4de]

[u:210bbaf4de]gasket at partspring[/u:210bbaf4de]
 
(quoted from post at 05:48:06 11/02/16) The o-ring for the PTO control handle shaft is part number 14457281. The gasket for the round plate is 81818209. You should be able to get both from any New Holland dealer. If you don't have a local New Holland dealer you can get them on-line from either Messicks or partspring.

[u:ff4de1cc39]o-ring at Messicks[/u:ff4de1cc39]

[u:ff4de1cc39]gasket at Messicks[/u:ff4de1cc39]

[u:ff4de1cc39]o-ring at partspring[/u:ff4de1cc39]

[u:ff4de1cc39]gasket at partspring[/u:ff4de1cc39]


Thank you, Sir!
 
Just a quick update - so far, I've done the following:

- replaced PTO shaft seal and gasket
- replaced PTO shifter o ring and gasket
- tore the steering gear all the way down, power washed, replaced all seals and o rings
- replaced sector shaft seals & felt washers
- changed the o ring and filter in the power steering pump reservoir
- changed all fluids besides coolant
- changed belt
- misc little electrical fixes

I have new hoses to put on and will replace coolant at that time.

The charging system does not seem to be working so I'll be diagnosing that next.
 

I can't get the genny to charge so I just sprung for a replacement unit along with a VR from YT. It's in the mail now.

I took it for a drive the other night and noticed that the temp gauge ran right up against the red after cruising around without a load for about 15 minutes. I suspected the thermostat may be the problem but wasn't sure so went ahead and drained the coolant from the radiator and block. I then disconnected the hoses and took off the front cap and radiator. The coolant looked good for the most part - aside from the last bit out of the block (it was rusty). I pulled the radiator and it's at the shop being worked over now. I have a thermostat on the way along with a new cap. I'll perform a proper flush of the whole system when all the parts are here.

I think I spend more time waiting on the shipping than actually working on the tractor. It is nice to have a reliable resource for parts, though.
 
This has been a fun read, I enjoy threads with good information and pictures.

How did you get the sector shaft seals out? Did you use a puller to get the arms off? Mine are leaking.
 
This no editing thing has always annoyed me.

This is the first Ive read of cavitation issues with the coolant. What conditioner is best to use? Water pump is leaking like mad on mine so the coolant is replacing itself... Gonna change the stat and hoses while Im in there.

Watch your power steering fluid level. Mine had a bad input shaft seal and was filling the crankcase up with hydraulic oil.

My transmission also had a bunch of water in it. Think the seal is leaking under the shifter plate, oil seeps down the side of the transmission.

 

The seals themselves were the easiest seals I've encountered on this ol' beast. Literally a flathead screwdriver from the back side (the adjuster plate side) and a few gently taps.

The arms took a pretty hefty puller to get them off and a few knocks with my hammer. They popped out fairly easily then. After that, pull the lock nut off the adjuster screw on the opposite side from each arm. Two bolts hold each plate on - remove those. Screw the adjuster screw in to make the plate come off the side of the gearbox. To get the sector shafts out, I had to put the nut back on partially that held the arms on (to protect the threads) and whack it with a hammer from the arm side. I think this was only because things were so gummed up in mine. 40 year old sludge.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top