801 powermaster to rebuild carb/buy rebuilt or new.

all_atv82

New User
I bought this yesterday and it would only run with the choke on, but started everytime. Today it won't start. It got down to 32 degrees last night but now is warmed up to 50 or so. I did some research and have good fuel flow through the carb. The gas smells good, no sign of water in fuel. To make a long post short would a rebuilt carb solve my problems? Or are there other suggestions I can try or adjust besides the fuel to the carb which checks out ok. Also where are the fuel filter screen? I didn't find any other than right at the tank.
 
These carbs are fairly simple. Take it apart and look at float if gas is flowing out the bottom good. A rebuild kit is much cheaper than a new unit. From your other post about having to use the choke to keep it running it sounds like a fuel issue but would not hurt to look at spark. Needs to jump a 1/4" gap with a nice blue color.
 

Before removal and dissassembly check a few more things first. Take a spark plug reading. If it is getting gas to the cylinders, which needs to happen for it to start, The plugs should be wet. If it cranks over three times without starting gas should run out of the carb intake. Check for plugs sparking. Don't blame the carb if the plugs aren't sparking. There is supposed to be a screen in the filter bowl. You have to look up from below to see it after removing the bowl. Did you check for water in the carb float bowl. Do yourself a favor and eliminate easy things before tearing into more difficult and expensive repairs. Remove all of the gas from the tank by SIPHON. move the end around so that you are getting all the rust and crud from the bottom don't trust your nose. Put new gas in it. DO THE SIMPLE STUFF FIRST!!!
 
Start by testing spark.
You need a blue/white spark that will jump a 1/4 inch gap at the center wire of the distributor cap and at ALL 4 spark plug wires. If you have that then

Pull the carb drain plug and make sure you have a good steady flow of gas that will fill a pint jar in less then 3 minutes.

Pull the air cleaner tube off if you have both those things and hold your hand over the carb intake and try to start it. It may even try to start when you do that. When you do that you should fell a good suction and get gas on your hand.

Then post back what you find
 
I agree with checking the spark. Easy stuff first.
What carb is on your tractor?
If it is an original Marvel Schebler, I would rebuild it.
If it is anything else, I would look for a used M/S and rebuild that.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions, I did try some earlier today. But had to go to town for a new battery charger. The battery is new, but seems to turn over slowly or like its hard to turn over. The drain plug is rusted in vise grips wouldn't even work, thought about heating it up with a torch... that thought didn't last long in my head haha. So anyway, I unscrewed the brass needle in front of that, and drained it that way. Gas had some crap in it but not much and no water. There was some rust on the needle and in holes. I cleaned out with carb cleaner. Bowl was pretty clean and screen was clean but has a hole torn in it? Tank looks nearly spotless from the top and screen in there at the outlet is clean. Havnt unbolted the carb yet to check float yet. But will tomorrow probably. I got new rubber gas lines and new shut off valve as they are pretty old and hard. Also an inline filter if that's ok to add on since it doesn't have one other than the screens? Will also check the spark first tomorrow also. What's the gap supposed to be set at? I have new plugs too.
 
I'll have to check what carb is on it in
morning, I did see a brass tag on the rear
of it, but don't remember what it said.
 
I have found most in line filters cause more trouble then they are worth. Also be careful with a rubber gas line since it runs very close to the manifold and that can be a fire waiting to happen. As for the drain plug NO HEAT the carb if full of gas which means a big bang.

If you have a local O'Reilly's auto parts tore they sell a good carb kit with good instructions. Kit cost if around $20
 
I was going to order a new float also but there are two different sizes, the parts person at tyesterdaystractors couldn't tell which size I need by the carb number TSX769. Bottom bolt on carb rusted and rounded off on the carb, I'm assuming this needs to come off to get everything rebuilt. I have a friend to help me rebuild once I get everything ordered.
 
What do you mean by the bottom bolt?? If your talking about the drain plug once you have the carb apart you can heat it up and very likely be able to pull it out and replace it. As for the float take your carb to a New Holland Ford dealer and get a good float
 
Yes the drain, but I got it off with penetrating oil. It was rusty. I got measurements for the float. Now I am worried there may be more wrong than just the carb. I just now noticed some pencil marking above the sparkplugs on the hood; from rear to front it reads: comp. 120 0 0 100 now what do I make of this!? All wires get hot spark.
 
Well if you have a compression gauge I would check the compression. With out knowing the history of it hard to say who and when those numbers where put there.

If you do not have a compression gauge you can try the old finger trick and see if all 4 cylinder have compression but doing that will not really tell you much
 
I did just check by putting my thumb over each hole and they all felt about the same, some suction then a sudden burst of air out. But I tested each individually this way, should I test this way with all the plugs out at the same time. I will get a compression gauge when I get to town in a day or 2. Thanks
 
"should I test this way with all the plugs out at the same time."

Unless you have a blown head gasket or crack between cylinders
taking all the plugs out shouldn't make any difference.

If you don't have a permanent need for a compression tester,
many parts stores rent them out. Lately it seems you pay full
price for it as if you purchased it, but then get your money back.

Someone local to you may lend you one. A lot of guys won't
lend there tools, and I don't blame them, but they may stop
by and do the test for you just because they like to help.
I would if you were in my area.
 
Do not know of you have a local O'Reilly's auto parts store but if you do good chance they will have a compression gauge you can rent form them. What they do is you buy the tool and use it then take it back and they give you your money back.

When you test compression to have the throttle wide open NO choke and all the plugs out. You also test it with the cylinders dry then put a little oil or ATF in the cylinders and test it again.

As for the finger test what you did is just what should have happened when you did that and it may have good compression but to know for sure the gauge is needed
 

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