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clutch lever partially sheared off

J

johnnyblaze

New User
OK---I learned my lesson.

I was brush hogging with my Ford 4000 in some pretty thick (too thick) stuff and ripped off part of my clutch lever along with the rod---had to turn the tractor key off to stop it since I couldn't take it out of gear (unless, as I found
out later I was at very low rpm). I found the rod and part of the clutch lever in the field----but the remaining part of the lever (the section that goes around the shaft) is still on the shaft. Looks like the remaining part of the
lever is welded on to the shaft. How can I get the thing off? (Should I have it re-welded in place or will it cause my clutch lever shaft seal/bushing to leak? Does it unbolt from the other side of the tractor and then the whole shaft
and lever slides out?)

I'm thinking about grinding off the remaining part of the clutch lever and jury rigging another similar lever onto the shaft---but it would be nice to fix it correctly and reliably.

Please help---Johnny Blaze 315-564-3036
 
Johnny,
Welcome to the Ford board.
First off, always, always mention whether you have a 62-64 4 cylinder 4000 or a 65-75 3 cylinder 4000. They are completely different tractors.
On a hunch here I'm going to assume you have a 4 cylinder model.
That little lever is on the clutch cross shaft. That shaft goes through the bell housing which has no oil in it so welding the lever should not be a problem.
After you repair it you will need to readjust your clutch so it engages properly. This is more important if you have live PTO on your tractor.
Click on the link for a diagram of of a 4 cylinder model.
I won't go into the 3 cylinder model untill you tell us which one you have.
Diagram
 

No three cylinder 4000's came with a two stage clutch for live pto, they have transmission pto or independent pto.

I should have a extra cross shaft but the tractor has to be split to swap the shafts.
 
Thanks Ultradog and De

I have a 3 cylinder gas Ford 4000-1971 model.

Tractor #C310280
Model #D1424C
Unit 1H16B
Engine 1F11B
Engine Block C7NN601SAK
transmission #:C7NN7006AR

I looked at the shaft on the other side of the tractor/housing---and the shaft can be seen but is pretty much flush with the end of the housing---so it must be held in place by internal pins.

I grabbed onto what is left of the lever with a pipe wrench and tried to turn it---it only turns maybe 5 degrees---so I hope I didn't somehow jam things up internally.

I looked at the picture you posted ---my set-up is close but with no jam nut---mine is welded.

Can I still have it welded realizing I have the 3 cylinder 1971 version and not the 4 cylinder version?

How many degrees should I be able to turn the thing with a wrench? or am I jammed up inside?

Johnny

Thanks for the help
 
That shaft is held in place internally by the throw out bearing fork.
Would require splitting the tractor to replace it.
The shaft passes through the bell housing which is dry so no seals to worry about if you weld it. That's what I would do.
There is plenty of adjustment on that little clevis so exact accuracy isn't needed.
I just looked at one here - pushed the clutch pedal down, etc. The shaft doesn't turn very much. Your estimate of 5 degrees is about right.
 
Model #D1424C is a 4000SU with gas engine independent PTO and 8 speed transmission.

The arm that the rod from the pedal connects to is part of the shaft. As Ultradog said, the shaft goes into the bell housing which is dry, no worries about causing a leak. You should be able to weld it up and be good.
 
thanks Ultra and Destroke,

I had my clutch level welded and straightened/adjusted the clutch rod---it works great !! Not jammed up inside. I'm back to brush hogging (leaving the big stuff to the chainsaw).

thanks again---you really helped me.

Johnnyblaze
 
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