8000 brakes dragging

I test drove a 1969 8000 today. I noticed two things; the brakes were "soft" at the pedals, meaning they had alot of travel before engaging and would not completely lock up the wheel, left or right. Also, when engaging the clutch to stop, the tractor did not roll far but came to a stop as though the brakes were dragging.
Another thing was the PTO would not disengage. With the engine off ,you could not turn the PTO shaft by hand. When running, it would not stop. I noticed that the PTO lever would not fully engage but stopped about 3/4" short of full travel. It felt like the linkage might be stuck/frozen at the upper end. I think this tractor has pulled implements most of it's life doing tillage rather than haying or any 3 pt work.

Can anyone offer ideas on causes and solutions? The owner is willing to deal some but I need to know what I'm getting in to. Engine and tranny sound/feel great, no leaks.Dual Power worked in all gears. Only leak I saw was at the hydraulic pump inside by the right wheel. I could see RTV boogers hanging out so it has been off at some point. I plan to use it for haying and some tillage.

Thanks for the help! Tim
 
If you got the damn thing for nothing it'd probably be too much to pay.... I would say from your description that the brake plates are warped, thus the spongy pedal and long travel before it stops... and the dragging and unwillingness to roll freely. That alone will run you the price of what the old mule is worth. The PTO... likely suffers from the same ailment. That's just the icing on the cake. The upside is that you'll only have to strip it all down once to do both repairs.... LOL
Given that both of those are suffering I would wager the DP is probably not far from cooked either. You could easily dump 5k in parts into a 4k tractor... Think long and hard about that.
The silly-cone on the pump suggests that the owner has already gone fishing and found the cost prohibitive OR simply has no idea what is wrong.
The other thing to consider is that the innards will be FULL of iron filings from the brakes.... and that will take a lot of internal washing, oil changes and misery before you get it all cleaned out... and the least bit of that stuff in the pump pickups will plug the screens and starve the hydraulic system. Run it like that very long and the hydraulics are never the same...


Rod
 
Thanks Rod. I have observed your experienced replies on these tractors and appreciate you weighing in. For my education, what causes these plates to warp? As far as fixing it ,it is a split between the tranny as well as pulling the rear axle housings to get at the brakes right? From there you can get at the brakes and PTO. Then there's the matter of the hydraulics after that. Sounds like a lot of work and all OEM parts.

Thanks again!
 
It probably got run low on oil.... or simply had the oil boiling hot. The brakes would require pulling both axle housings along with doing a major wash down inside. The PTO requires a rear split. Someone will chine in and say they did it through the hydraulic pump aperture.... but I don't think it's worth the misery of not splitting it.
The hydraulics, depending on how they are functioning may be OK... or not. With all the crap that gets floating around the various system valves can take some wear... I've got one here that went through that and I just find the hydraulics have never been the same in terms of how they work, even with new pumps.

Rod
 
Somewhere I read that the rear axle housings require a big press and special tooling. Is that for brake work or changing bearings?
 
I did the same thing on brakes, not really hard job but was about 1100 bucks for parts more than a dozen years ago
 

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