Ford 3000 Industrial

DTSharp

New User
New member, first post although I've been reading up here lately, so thanks to everyone for the knowledge base here. Anyhow I just picked up this 1969 or 1970 Ford 3000 industrial model, and have a few questions about it.



First and most obvious, what year model is it, 1969 or 1970? Here's the number plate under the hood:



The production code is 9L18B. According to the references I found online that denotes it was built November 18, 1969, day shift. The seller told me it was a 1970, which could be true if these are like cars. Do these tractors go by a "model year" or are they strictly denoted by the date of production? Should I consider it a '69 or a '70?

Looking at the model code, C5011F denotes its a 3000 industrial model, diesel, no PTO, with the 4/4 torque converter transmission, all of which checks out visually. But I have some questions about the "industrial" designation. Does anyone have a comprehensive list of all of the differences/changes the industrial model had compared to the other variants? Most obvious is the color, I'm assuming that yellow paint is stock for the industrial models. There's also a heavy steel nose cover and grille that differs from the other 3000's I've seen photos of. Anything else that's different?



I thought I read somewhere that the front axle is different for the industrial model?



Speaking of that nose cover, the only ones I've found photos of online that looked like that were designated as model 3500's. But I saw somewhere the 3500 was only built until 1968. Is the "industrial" 3000 just the continuation of the 3500, in an effort by Ford to streamline the model numbers? And if I want to replace the F-O-R-D letters, can I use the ones that are sold for regular 3000's? What about decals for this one, as the regular 3000 decal pack doesn't appear to be correct for this one?

My next question is about the loader. Is this a stock Ford accessory? Is there a way to determine the model number for the loader attachment?



There is what might be an oval Ford logo cast into the lower part of the upright, plus some casting numbers. Can this help ID it? I haven't crawled all over it yet looking for a number plate, but should there be one, and where should I look for it?



In addition to the huge outer wheel weights, there are some huge inner weights attached to the axle just inboard of the rear wheels. You can see them in this photo. Has anyone seen these before or know anything about them? I'd like to lighten this thing up a little bit, as it is HEAVY, and I don't think I'll need quite so much counterweight during normal use of the loader around my place. If I were to take off either these inner weights or the outer wheel weights, which would you recommend removing?



BTW I do have the hydraulic ram top link for it. The guy said he removed it because it leaked, but he gave it to me in the deal. I'll need to get it back on there to operate the gannon properly.

Next question is about the gauge panel, which is missing but I want to install one.



I see there are two different gauge clusters sold by some of the tractor parts places, for whether the tractor has an alternator or a generator. This tractor has a generator but its missing the tach drive, and I wouldn't mind upgrading it to an alternator anyhow.



The notes on the alternator-compatible gauge clusters say they are for tractors "originally equipped with alternator". But am I correct in assuming I can use it if do the alternator conversion at the same time?

Does anyone have a photo of the transmission shift pattern for the 4/4 TC trans? I can't find it in any photos, and the parts houses don't seem to sell replacement shift pattern decals for it.

That's it for now. I'll have a ton more questions I'm sure, as I get more in to this thing. Thanks in advance for any help with any of these questions.
 
not a 4500 for sure, wrong axle & steering cylinder to be one

you are right on with what you found

It is a 1969 3500

c5011F

C50 (350) 3500 Industrial 1965-1972
50 - Industrial
1 ? Diesel
1 ? No PTO
F ? 4x4 torque converter auto reversing
 

Well OK then, I guess I have a 3500. I thought I had read somewhere that they only made them through '68 but I couldn't find that reference again so maybe I read it wrong somehow.

Unfortunately I can't find a whole lot of info on the 3500. I'm guessing its pretty much just a 3000 with a few changes such as the paint color, heavy duty nose cover, etc. Is there a reference somewhere that will detail those differences?

Thanks for the help so far!
 
Yes,
It's a 3500.
Single reduction rear end, side arm power
steering, 4400 style bolster and front
axle, hard nose, etc.
Some day I'd like to find one like that.
Strip the front axle, steering, tin and
hard nose off of it and put it all on a
4000 ag chassis that I have.
 
(quoted from post at 18:12:16 10/06/16)
Well OK then, I guess I have a 3500. I thought I had read somewhere that they only made them through '68 but I couldn't find that reference again so maybe I read it wrong somehow.

Unfortunately I can't find a whole lot of info on the 3500. I'm guessing its pretty much just a 3000 with a few changes such as the paint color, heavy duty nose cover, etc. Is there a reference somewhere that will detail those differences?

Thanks for the help so far!

They made the 3500 from 1965 through the end of 1971 and replaced it with the 3550 starting in 1972. The 3500 has the same engine, rear axle and 3 point hydraulics (if it has a 3 point system) as the 3000 ag chassis model. It could have been had with some of the same transmissions as the ag chassis 3000 as well, or it could have had the manual or power reverser transmissions. The biggest difference between the 3500 and the 3000 is not the visual difference of the heavier grill surround on the 3500, although that is a quick visual cue as to what it is. The real functional difference is the single piece non-adjustable front axle on the 3500 vs. the 3 piece adjustable width front axle on the 3000. The front axle on the 3500 was much stronger and would hold up better to heavy loader work.
 
Nice, I just picked up a 69 3400 gasser not
to long ago. Can you you get some better
pictures of how the hydraulic links are
plumbed? I'm digging the better front axle.

The loader is a 730 I believe and looks just like mine minus the added reinforcement to yours, although I think I saw a crack but the tractor is under the knife so I can wait
 
Thanks everyone for your input! I've been out of town over the weekend so haven't had a chance to dig into this thing much. But I did order some manuals online from AgManuals.com. I got the operators manual for the tractor as well as for the loader. Reading through the loader manual I'm pretty sure its a 735 series loader, not a 730. Tons of great info in both of those manuals by the way, and so cool that they were available for digital download so I didn't have to wait for hard copies via snail mail.

I should have a little time to tinker with it this weekend and hopefully learn more about it. I need to get a few things tightened up on it so I can move some dirt :)
 
Hey folks, as you can see from my photos earlier in this thread I need to replace the missing gauge cluster. Here's the diagram of the stock one from the owners manual I downloaded:



The replacement ones I see for sale here and on other sites have 4 idiot lights along the bottom rather than just two, as shown above. I'm sure I can just leave the other two unused but can anyone tell me what the other two indicator lights are for (on the clusters with 4)?
 
One is for the air cleaner restriction warning lamp. This is when they went to paper air cleaners.
a239981.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 17:12:26 10/13/16) One is for the air cleaner restriction warning lamp. This is when they went to paper air cleaners.
a239981.jpg

Thanks Keith! You wouldn't have a higher res version of that image would you? I can't read the text on it.
 
(quoted from post at 10:42:56 10/14/16) It lost resolution when I uploaded it.
Open your e-mail and I'll send it to ya.( include your e-mail address in the heading of the message)
Keith

I appreciate it. I turned on the email button but you can just copy and paste my email address [email protected] which is probably easier. Thanks!
 

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