Carb still leaking after rebuild???

Lingcod

Member
Hi Fellas,

I have a 1957 861 powermaster with a MS TSX662 carb on it that i recently had "rebuilt" by a fella that works at the local implement and runs a side business working on antique tractors. At any rate, i put the carb on and everything checked out ok but after a few days i went back and there is wet fuel right at the mouth of the air intake on the carb ( air cleaner hose is still off until i get a replaement). I can wipe it dry and a couple minutes later it is wet again. Also there is a drop of fuel on the bottom of the carb where the small plug with the screen is. Does anyone have any insight as to what may be leaking? Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Don
 
The float needle or the needle seat is leaking. Now days the new float needle is likely to be rubber tipped and it take them a while to get a set in the rubber so they do not leak any more. Or the seat is not as tight as it needs to be. Years ago an old carb guy told me when I rebuild a carb to drop the needle in that tap on it a few times to put a set in the rubber so it will then seal and I have been doing that for decades and it works most of the time to stop a problem like your having
 
Old hit it on the head.
I had the same hair pulling problem after rebuilding my carb.
Finally someone put me on to the seat not being tight. After taking it apart I found a flat blade socket to fit a 3/8" ratchet. Much to my surprise I was able to get another 1/8 turn on it.
Put it back together, problem solved.
The old arthritic hands don't have the grip they used to. Can't hardly pull those new seals off products, you know, the ones that have a clear tab that you pull, and the whole seal come off.....well sometimes, that's what pliers are for now.
 
Also as another suspect . . .

Float level less than 1/4" from gasket to nearest surface of the floats so that the bowl has to have excessive gas in it before the floats can close the needle . . . or float rubbing on bowl body and so not rising to close that inlet valve.

I just rebuilt my NAA carb.
My float arms were all bent up from previous float adjustments, so I first flattened the brass arms to each float and made the floats square to each other. Then to adjust I lightly pinched each float arm with the vise grips right up against the float pin retaining curls before bending the arms so that I would have identical float arm bending for each float thus keeping them square to each other. I used a 1/4" rod, rolled along the gasket surface under the floats making sure both floats touched the rod (or drill bit) at the same point.
 
(quoted from post at 15:50:57 10/05/16) Old hit it on the head.
I had the same hair pulling problem after rebuilding my carb.
Finally someone put me on to the seat not being tight. After taking it apart I found a flat blade socket to fit a 3/8" ratchet. Much to my surprise I was able to get another 1/8 turn on it.
Put it back together, problem solved.
The old arthritic hands don't have the grip they used to. Can't hardly pull those new seals off products, you know, the ones that have a clear tab that you pull, and the whole seal come off.....well sometimes, that's what pliers are for now.

Michael's Dad,

I think what might be happening is that people shy away from putting the carb carefully in a vise for fear of cracking it . . . and so seats and main nozzles wind up not getting tightened down adequately.

Both my seat and main nozzle were too loose, my bowl gasket was too thin and homemade and my float level was off and the floats off kilter.

I tightened my carb seat with the throttle body snug in a leather padded (if necessary) vise, bearing down on a big bit screwdriver using two hands to keep it nice and straight so it can't climb out of the slot.

Then it is down to what experience has taught you is that perfect "tight" spot, where you know to not go any further. :)
 
I greatly appreciate all of your comments on this. I called the fella that rebuilt it last night and explained to him where the fuel appears to be coming from. Forgive me for not knowing the right terminology but he told me wipe up all existing fuel and to tighten the brass "t" nut at an angle on the bottom of the carb about 1/4 turn and then watch it to see if it is still leaking after a day or so and let him know what happens. Does this sound like a reasonable thing to do? Also, is there anywhere I can get a book or manual that would explain the marvel shebler carbs so I can better understand them? Thanks again for any insight!

Don
 
Send me an e-mail and I can send you an instruction sheet from a carb kit tha twill show you what all is in that carb and what all the parts are. I can post it here but when I do it does not come out in such a way that you can read it
 
(quoted from post at 11:09:57 10/06/16) I greatly appreciate all of your comments on this. I called the fella that rebuilt it last night and explained to him where the fuel appears to be coming from. Forgive me for not knowing the right terminology but he told me wipe up all existing fuel and to tighten the brass "t" nut at an angle on the bottom of the carb about 1/4 turn and then watch it to see if it is still leaking after a day or so and let him know what happens. Does this sound like a reasonable thing to do? Also, is there anywhere I can get a book or manual that would explain the marvel shebler carbs so I can better understand them? Thanks again for any insight!

Don


Don,

There are three plugs on the bowl bottom.

That very small brass one that is just a plug for the main nozzle passage.

The angular user drain pipe plug for draining the bowl or for removing to check fuel flow when you are in doubt as to whether you are getting ENOUGH of a supply of fuel.

The sintered strainer (screen) in the center, which requires no service and is there to drain off bowl flooding if excess gas is occurring. So if this is where the drips are then you are back to all of the above possible reasons for excessive fuel. by the way, a very uncommon, but leaky float can cause excessive fuel delivery too cause the float will have lost its buoyancy.

So on which of those exactly did you see the drops of gas forming?
 
Thanks for the explanation on those plugs. If I'm looking at the carb and the sed bowl is on my left, next there is a brass "t"
nut and after that there is a regular looking hex head plug and the drip is always on this plug. Have a good picture but am not
sure how to post a pic. Thanks again.
 
(quoted from post at 12:59:22 10/06/16) Thanks for the explanation on those plugs. If I'm looking at the carb and the sed bowl is on my left, next there is a brass "t"
nut and after that there is a regular looking hex head plug and the drip is always on this plug. Have a good picture but am not
sure how to post a pic. Thanks again.

Photo Attaching

Below where I am typing this to you right now,
You'll see: ADVANCED POSTING TOOLS in a red banner heading.

In the blue colored options there, click:
[b:3db128c8bf]Upload Photo[/b:3db128c8bf] (NOT that "Choose File" button lower down that you've probably tried.)

That method hasn't worked since this YT Forum developed problems a while back, where the normal photo uploading method ceased to function as did the option to go back and EDIT (change) what you had posted.

THEN in new pane that opens --> [b:3db128c8bf]Choose File[/b:3db128c8bf]

THEN ---> [b:3db128c8bf]Upload [/b:3db128c8bf]

THEN if you are satisfied with the visual preview
click the [b:3db128c8bf]CONTINUE[/b:3db128c8bf] button just above the little preview of your photo.

Finally, click the usual big [b:3db128c8bf]SUBMIT[/b:3db128c8bf] button that you normally use to post messages.
 
Don't worry about filling in all the other fields in that pane -- Make, Model, Year etc.-- it isn't necessary to fill anything in.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top