New to me '69 ford 3400

Picked up a 69 ford 3400 3 cyl. Gas w/
loader and rake for $1800 last weekend. Far
from perfect but further from scrap. It has
the 6x4 trans

Previous owner (s) jambed a pipe into the
manifold and welded a muffler on,
effectively pinching the pipe shut and
cracking the manifold. Got it all swapped
out thanks to the folks at steiner tractor
parts in Lennon,mi. Fired it up and it was
spitting flames (whitish orange with blue
tips on the big ones if I remember right).
Charged the battery (bad genny or regulator,
another day) and fiddled with it today, the
choke cable was replace with wire and wasn't
fully releasing the choke properly.

Ran alittle better once I figured that out
but need a cable obviously. Ran it down the
drive and the power felt better with the
open exhaust since I have to get a different
muffler. Tried the loader and the engine
just bogs down and doesn't recover unless I
push in the clutch or remove the load from
the loader. I can scrape lightly going
forward and get some material in the bucket
but can't fill it. There is a governer on
these that helps that, correct?

Checked the plugs and the wires are bad,
plugs are champion rn4c and were carboned up
heavily. Also, the new blue manifold is now
white on the tube coming from the number 1
cylinder port to the number 2 where the
vertical part is. I have a huge manual but
it's for the farm version (2000,3000,4000
and 5000 models)

The info in your manual is valid where you can verify individual components. Engine, carb, electrical will all be in there.

Adjustments and such? Governer adjustments etc? The locations appear different as far as a few accessories are but regulators are regulators.

RickB is correct.
A 3400 is essentially a 3000 with a heavier front end. Engine, transmission, 3 point, hydraulics, electrical, cooling, fuel systems, etc are the same.
When ordering parts - except for the front axle - you will have better luck asking for parts for a 3000.
They are excellent, bullet proof machines.

Thank you for the conformation guys, does it sound like it's running rich? Going to change the wires and double check the point and ignition system. I need to get the generator tested then test the regulator.

It did back fire a few times

Cleaned up the contacts and stuff onf the regulator with no change. Spark from the coil wire ground was whitish in color. Also ha a feeling the fuel pump went out as the hoses lines and filters are bypasses with rubber fuel line.

Added a reply but I'm not used to the format of this forum, it's under my first post

They will run just on gravity flow but to put out max horsepower they want a fuel pump.
The original fuel lines on those are rather circuitous but do work well.
Remember tbere are no less than 4 filters in that system.
One in the shutoff valve in the bottom of the tank.
Next is a screen in the top of the fuel pump.
Then there is a screen in the sediment bowl. Made up of about 300 little brass washers stacked on a post. The post can be removed and the washers cleaned. It's about a 2 beer job to restack all the washers on the post. That sediment bowl is NLA. Lastly, there's a screen in the brass fitting where the fuel line goes into the carb.
Helps to go through the system every 30 years or so and clean them all.

The bowl is missing, top housing and filter stack are still there though. Looks like the bent one of the lines to get the hose and clamp on. Hopefully once I get the generator tested and replace the regulator, tune up and fuel pump. I can put it to useful work haha. Just bogs down whenever load is applied and misses at higher rpm

My buddy dropped his bowl and broke the little glass jar. He made a new one on the lathe. Took all of 15 minutes to drill out a piece of aluminum round stock.
The newer ones were aluminum.
I could pull mine out and measure it up - give you dimensions of the jar if you decided to go that route.

Searched and the place I've been getting parts from that's semi local has em for a few bucks, the whole assembly. Almost looks like a small baby bottle or something. I think I'm gping to drop the loader until I get everything sorted just so I have room. The lines are all there for the fuel pump, just hope the fittings are too.

Took the generator off it was filled with nasty sludge and crud. Scraped the bulk of it off and opened it up. Pulled the back cap off carefully and found one of the wires going to the coils on the side of the case was broken. The thing is just filthy inside there, is there any point in getting it rebuilt? That leads me to my next question, should I install an alternator? The tach drive cable is melted so that doesn't work anyway. We aren't sure if the voltage regulator works or not since the genny is bad. I'm not afraid to try to rebuild it if I can find parts though, never done one before but doesn't look hard.

Hoping to have this thing up and running before the snow flys

My tack don't work never has and never needed it. When my Gen bits the dust a alt it will have.

Update:

Replaced-
Plugs
Wires
Cap
Points
Condenser
Botched wire from coil to points
Exhaust manifold
Muffler/pipe

Messed with the fuel line to back of carb and cross the add the fitting which I now need to replace. Found the screen pushed out/missing.

Fired it up before It started leaking and it still ran rough. Noticed the leak, shut er down and turned the fuel off. I'm hoping that once I fix the leak, a simple timing adjustment will help at least let it run through the winter. Still has the holley carb but dosent need to choke to run, only start. Hopefully that last as I can't replace it right now.

Need to get the motor warmed up so I can clean the gunk from around the fuel pump to replace that. It was buried in crap and caked on dirt. This thing hasn't had a bar in almost ever aside from rain from the looks of things haha