Looking at a 7710 II

MNfarmer

Member
I've found a 1988 7710 series two tractor with fwa dual rear remotes plus the load sensing remote, non synchro 16x4, and c/h/a. Can the load monitor remote be used to raise and lower an implement or is it just for draft control? What's the best way to determine what front axle it has? I'm going to look at it next week so I don't have the sn# right off hand. I've read through the archives and read some pretty good things about this model. I have 40 beef cows so it's main jobs will be haying in the summer and when I eventually put a loader on it feeding in the winter. From what I understand the 1000 PTO shaft is separate from the 540 so I'd have to make sure that both come with it. Just wondering if there's anything particular to this model I should look for? This will be my first Ford. Thanks!
 

Their good tractors, I'd like to have one myself.
See how it shifts, the shifter bushing ware making it hard to change gears, their in the shift controls under the cab and not to hard to replace, I had both shifters bushings replaced on my 6610.
Most of the series two black strip (decal) tractors had more power than they where rated for. The ones we seen on a dyno made around 100hp.
 
They did say they replaced the reverse
shaft and that it shifts really good now, I
wonder if they meant the bushing you
mentioned?? Thanks for bringing it up!
 

Dual Power is a big plus for haying, depending on hay thickness and field conditions (flat, hilly, smooth, rough) you have four to five gears to choose from to get the best baler operating speed, also three to four mowing gears depending on conditions.
The 16x8 synchro trans has better reverse selections and adds to the tractors value but the 16x4 is still a good trans.

Looked at a nice 90 model couple months ago, two wheel drive with dual remotes, 16x8 trans, 1800 hours, radials, good original paint, didn't have load monitor but I don't need it.
They where asking $20k, I was thinking $18k but had recently purchased a new mower and late model baler, just don't have the extra funds for a tractor purchase at this time
 

My cousin has had one for a long time. He has had guys working for him who could destroy an anvil with a rubber mallet, but they have not hurt that 7710. They are an extremely well liked tractor. Rod NS will chime in. He has one that is turned up to about 150 HP for pulling a two row corn chopper.
 
If it's a 1988 model it will have the Carraro axle.

Load Monitor can be used to raise a cylinder, but it will not lower one. Translation: whatever you hook to it will have to be gravity return.
 
Haha. The legend grows every day. Mine probably makes somewhere in the 105-120 range. I really don't know since it's never been dyno'd. I
just know what it burns... the last average consumption I calculated for it on heavy work using nebraska efficiency numbers... put it at 112
average output for the duration of that fuel tank.
A buddy has a black decal he claims makes 130 and judging by what he's destroyed on it (dual power) and what it's hauled around all it's
life... I would not be surprised if it does make it... but he also claims to have a different turbo and larger nozzles in it too.

Rod
 
As Bern said, it will have the Carraro axle if it's indeed an '88. If it's just a little bit older it will likely have a ZF APL345 or 350.
They use two separate stub shafts for the PTO... so like you say, make sure you get both. They're a couple hundred from the aftermarket if you need one.... and 5-600 I think from CNH... and I'm not altogether convinced I wouldn't pay the difference for OEM. I've broken the aftermarket and I'm more than a bit suspect of the 540 shaft in mine... I went back to the OEM shaft and all seems good now...
There's not so much any one thing I'd watch on those tractors as... everything at this point. As alluded to in the other post... a LOT of us have the pumps cranked a way up on the 77's... and depending on how they're used that may not have left much for you to use up. Best thing I can say is bring some tools. Pull the various plugs on them and check for oil contamination on the hubs, axles, transmission. Try and work it enough to get the oil warm and see how it shifts... and make sure the hydraulics work right. Overall they were a very good tractor and they'll do a lot more than they're rated for...

Rod
 
(quoted from post at 20:49:04 09/29/16) As Bern said, it will have the Carraro axle if it's indeed an '88. If it's just a little bit older it will likely have a ZF APL345 or 350.
They use two separate stub shafts for the PTO... so like you say, make sure you get both. They're a couple hundred from the aftermarket if you need one.... and 5-600 I think from CNH... and I'm not altogether convinced I wouldn't pay the difference for OEM. I've broken the aftermarket and I'm more than a bit suspect of the 540 shaft in mine... I went back to the OEM shaft and all seems good now...
There's not so much any one thing I'd watch on those tractors as... everything at this point. As alluded to in the other post... a LOT of us have the pumps cranked a way up on the 77's... and depending on how they're used that may not have left much for you to use up. Best thing I can say is bring some tools. Pull the various plugs on them and check for oil contamination on the hubs, axles, transmission. Try and work it enough to get the oil warm and see how it shifts... and make sure the hydraulics work right. Overall they were a very good tractor and they'll do a lot more than they're rated for...

Rod
40947.jpg
 
That's the front axle on it, the hubs don't have the three dimples on them that I've seen on older models
 
Yep, that's the Carraro. While I prefer the ZF myself, the Carraro is not a bad axle in my opinion, with the exception of the king pin bearings. My biggest dislike with it is actually with regards to the transfer case used with it. Unlike the ZF which uses a mutil-plate wet clutch, the Carraro transfer case uses a simple dog clutch to couple and uncouple the front axle from the rear axle. While simplicity is generally a good thing, the dog clutch design does not allow for disengagements under load. There's also no overload protection like you'd have with a clutch plate design.
 
Thank you all for your help! I greatly appreciate it.. Does anyone know what the transmission speeds are with the engine running at the correct RPM for 540 PTO work? I'm guessing that not being synchroed it would be a little difficult to shift to the next lowest gear at the end of the field. Thanks again..
 

Look in Tractor Data .com for trans speeds.
You can shift high and low dual power by stepping on the floor mounted button with out clutching giving you two easy speeds to choose from, shifting gears isn't that hard ether.
Some of my standard eight speed transmissions shift easier than the sychro trans in my 6610
 
You can engage and disengage "on the fly" - you don't need to be stopped. What you can't do is disengage under load, just like the diff lock. To disengage, you'll have to change direction (turn the steering wheel the other way), back up, or lift the front end off the ground.
 
I know where that tractor is, and have even sat in the seat looking it over. It is a pretty clean tractor in my opinion, and the establishment that has it for sale has a great reputation. Have purchased a couple items from there myself, and their service department does excellent work. Manager is as good of a guy as you'll ever find.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top