Ford 5000 issues

dannyidp · Sep 19, 2016

Hello everyone
I'm new here hope I'm posting in the right place I just bought a Ford 5000 that needs a lot of work so I will be asking a couple of questions first off the tractor runs has some white smoke so probably going to rebuild the motor I don't know if it has sleeves or been bored yet. The tractor has absolutely no power steering but the main problem right now is the Transmission jumping out of 3rd gear so I took the cover off the trans and it was full of milky oil anyway where can I get part numbers or a schematic with a parts breakdown? I have found that the shift fork for 3 and 1 is worn And the rod where the shift Fork is attached is very worn and loose question is both the shift levers supposed to be round? The high low shifter is round the other one is Square on two sides it looks like it was made that way or is it supposed to be round? Thanks for any and all input

Destroked 450 · Sep 19, 2016

I wouldn't jump into a overhaul until I'd used it some to see how much blowby it has and if it uses oil. Could be worn inj or weak inj pump.
These engines don't have sleeves and must be bored if worn.
If yours is a early model with the steering cylinder up front you'll need to check for pin wear giving to much slop, and the control valve will need to be properly adjusted.
My would steer one way but not the other, after building up and resizing a couple of worn pins then adjusting the control valve it now steers easier than my 6610 with hydrostat steering.
Drain the milky oil out of the trans and put in fresh tractor hyd oil.
Haven't had the top off mine to see what the shifters look like.
Messick's Tractor Parts is a site I use for looking up parts and numbers.

tntrosco · Sep 19, 2016

http://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr52013ag20615 I an currently rebuilding my 5000 also, I go to new Hollands parts search, it gives all parts and exploded views, its a great site

tntrosco · Sep 19, 2016

I just read your post again, I am also having issues with my power steering, I put all new seals and O-rings in both ,the pump and cylinder, cleaned the valve on the cylinder, I replaced all lines and hoses, and still no power steering, needless to say, I'm aggravated and at a loss as to what is wrong glad I tested it before putting the radiator back on, btw, mine is a 1965 5000, cylinder under the radiator,

tntrosco · Sep 19, 2016

w
hat pin are you talking about that has slop? and how do you adjust the control valve? it sure seems that I have no pressure in the lines, I put all new seals and O-rings in my pump and cylinder and the valve on the cylinder, but I don't see any adjustment for that valve

Destroked 450 · Sep 20, 2016

(quoted from post at 18:38:22 09/19/16) w
hat pin are you talking about that has slop? and how do you adjust the control valve? it sure seems that I have no pressure in the lines, I put all new seals and O-rings in my pump and cylinder and the valve on the cylinder, but I don't see any adjustment for that valve

On mine the tapered pin that holds the cylinder onto the steering arm and the clevis pins attaching the link to the cyl and valve actuating arm had wear in them, it doesn't take much wear to have enough slop to keep the control valve from shifting properly.
Look on the left side where the drag link attaches to the steering arm and you'll see two adjusting bolts with jam nuts , one on each side of the steering arm. Adjust these out or in until the control valve on the cylinder moves in or out .030 to .060. Valve travel is checked between the face of the valve and the square clevis of the valve, I have mine set at .040. Turn the steering wheel to the right until the arm contacts the front stop bolt and check to see if the valve has moved out the proper amount, if not adjust the rear stop bolt, now turn the steering wheel to the left until the arm contacts the front stop bolt and check to see it the control valve moves in the proper amount, if not adjust the front stop bolt.
When new with the steering centered there's .040-.050 clearance between the arm and both stop bolts, on mine there's .050 on one side and .070 on the other to get the proper valve travel. If adjusting the stop bolts out doesn't get the proper valve travel the pins and linkage have to much wear and will need rebuilt or replaced.
Most people don't know there's a grease fitting under the right side of the main axle booster that allows one to grease the two bushings the center pin goes in, if there is much slop in the center pin the bushings and or pin will need replaced
I am unable to scan and post pages of my factory service manual but will copy and mail them to some one that can.

dannyidp · Sep 20, 2016

(quoted from post at 11:09:01 09/20/16)

(quoted from post at 18:38:22 09/19/16) w
hat pin are you talking about that has slop? and how do you adjust the control valve? it sure seems that I have no pressure in the lines, I put all new seals and O-rings in my pump and cylinder and the valve on the cylinder, but I don't see any adjustment for that valve

Click to expand...

On mine the tapered pin that holds the cylinder onto the steering arm and the clevis pins attaching the link to the cyl and valve actuating arm had wear in them, it doesn't take much wear to have enough slop to keep the control valve from shifting properly.
Look on the left side where the drag link attaches to the steering arm and you'll see two adjusting bolts with jam nuts , one on each side of the steering arm. Adjust these out or in until the control valve on the cylinder moves in or out .030 to .060. Valve travel is checked between the face of the valve and the square clevis of the valve, I have mine set at .040. Turn the steering wheel to the right until the arm contacts the front stop bolt and check to see if the valve has moved out the proper amount, if not adjust the rear stop bolt, now turn the steering wheel to the left until the arm contacts the front stop bolt and check to see it the control valve moves in the proper amount, if not adjust the front stop bolt.
When new with the steering centered there's .040-.050 clearance between the arm and both stop bolts, on mine there's .050 on one side and .070 on the other to get the proper valve travel. If

adjusting the stop bolts out doesn't get the proper valve travel the pins and linkage have to much wear and will need rebuilt or replaced.
Most people don't know there's a grease fitting under the right side of the main axle booster that allows one to grease the two bushings the center pin goes in, if there is much slop in the center pin the bushings and or pin will need replaced
I am unable to scan and post pages of my factory service manual but will copy and mail them to so
me one that can.

Thanks guys for the comments at this present time I've got all the pins and bushings coming from my front end plus a rebuild kit for the cylinder and the pump
I've been looking at the transmission and all the gears are worn pretty good third gear is a little oval for the synchronizers been grinding but the rod is loose we have a lot of play in the fork I'm debating on whether to replace first and third gears are getting hard to find or just fix the slop and Let It Go I don't know how long the gears will last all the gears look good except where the snchronizer goes in

tntrosco · Sep 20, 2016

Thanks for the explanation if possible you
can email me at [email protected], I would
love to see the pics, thanks

dannyidp · Sep 21, 2016

(quoted from post at 17:59:58 09/20/16) Thanks for the explanation if possible you
can email me at [email protected], I would
love to se

e the pics, thanks

Hey did those adjustments these guys told you about help you with your power steering? I have started taking mine apart all my pins and bushings should be here butt the drag link pin was seized I tried everything I heated hit up beat wedged impact everything so what I did what is an idea from somewhere else that I had read to heat it up put a jack on the drag link pin and hit it with a hammer on the side that's bad advice don't ever do that because I broke my Center casting off. Now I have to get that welded and it has to be dead on sense A pin goes through I finally got the drag link loose

Destroked 450 · Sep 21, 2016

Which part did you break? I may have a extra one laying around, we scraped out a 5000 SOS gas several years ago but still have some of the front axle parts and transmission.

You put a jack under the threaded part of the pin and put some pressure on it, don't jack the tractor off the ground, then place a large punch or rod on top of the arm as close to the drag link as possible and hit it with a hammer. I don't use heat as it will melt the grease out of the joints and some don't have fittings to add grease back in.

Destroked 450 · Sep 21, 2016

(quoted from post at 13:59:58 09/20/16) Thanks for the explanation if possible you
can email me at [email protected], I would
love to see the pics, thanks

email sent

dannyidp · Sep 21, 2016

(quoted from post at 12:10:15 09/21/16)
Which part did you break? I may have a extra one laying around, we scraped out a 5000 SOS gas several years ago but still have some of the front axle parts and transmission.

You put a jack under the threaded part of the pin and put some pressure on it, don't jack the tractor off the ground, then place a large punch or rod on top of the arm as close to the drag link as possible and hit it with a hammer. I don't use heat as it will melt the grease out of the joints and some don't have fittings to add grease back in.

I'm beginning to wonder if I paid too much for this ford I'm running into more and more stuff I just got the power steering cylinder apart which he told me had been rebuilt but it is full of rust in the cylinder the cylinder is pitted so how much is too much I don't know. does anybody know where you can find a cylinder? The part that broke is the casting off the front end hoping to weld it because that is the whole front chunk that bolts to the front of the motor. I might be interested in some transmission gears if you would sell them and they're not in too bad a shape thanks guys

Sean in PA · Sep 21, 2016

(quoted from post at 14:54:29 09/21/16)
I'm beginning to wonder if I paid too much for this ford I'm running into more and more stuff I just got the power steering cylinder apart which he told me had been rebuilt but it is full of rust in the cylinder the cylinder is pitted so how much is too much I don't know. does anybody know where you can find a cylinder? The part that broke is the casting off the front end hoping to weld it because that is the whole front chunk that bolts to the front of the motor. I might be interested in some transmission gears if you would sell them and they're not in too bad a shape thanks guys

The cast piece that broke is officially called the "Front Axle Support" on the parts site, and most folks on here refer to it as the "front bolster". Since you have a steering cylinder you must have the earlier style and the part number that you need is C7NN3029E. It is no longer available from New Holland, but you should be able to find one in a salvage yard if it can't be welded and if Destroked doesn't still have that part or if his is the newer style without the external cylinder.

Front axle support at Bootheel Tractor Parts

search results at tractor-part.com showing several salvage yards that have them

Walt's lists one as well, but this site won't let me post the URL.

Destroked 450 · Sep 21, 2016

(reply to post at 11:54:29 09/21/16)

So you broke the front bolster casting where the pivot pin goes in, that's not good.
I'll have to look at my extra cylinder is see what kind of shape it's in, I should still have the front bolster as well but it would cost a bit to ship it depending on where your located.
SOS transmission parts wont fit in your eight spd manual.

dannyidp · Sep 21, 2016

(quoted from post at 18:35:12 09/21/16)

(reply to post at 11:54:29 09/21/16)

Click to expand...

So you broke the front bolster casting where the pivot pin goes in, that's not good.
I'll have to look at my extra cylinder is see what kind of shape it's in, I should still have the front bolster as well but it would cost a bit to ship it depending on where your located.
SOS transmission parts wont fit in your eight spd manual.

Ya I know

But nickel rod will fix that.Can someone tell me the difference in the steering cylinder off of the 4500 5100 vs the 5000?ford new Holland website don't even show the 5000 steering cylinder. Destroked if you have a old cylinder please let me know.

Destroked 450 · Sep 21, 2016

I have a 4500, the cylinder is different, I'll look at the cylinder but wont be able to get it apart to know if it's good till tomorrow.
5100 cylinder is the one you have

Destroked 450 · Sep 21, 2016

Something I thought of is we have local machine shop that does a lot of hyd cyl repair. I've had them cut me a new barrel for hyd and air cylinders to replace a worn or pitted one.
You might want to check with a machine or welding shop or hyd repair shop to see if they will cut you a new barrel, normally a new barrel doesn't cost much.
My local guy can also get me seal kits for less than the dealer charges.

dannyidp · Sep 21, 2016

(quoted from post at 20:28:32 09/21/16)
Something I thought of is we have local machine shop that does a lot of hyd cyl repair. I've had them cut me a new barrel for hyd and air cylinders to replace a worn or pitted one.
You might want to check with a machine or welding shop or hyd repair shop to see if they will cut you a new barrel, normally a new barrel doesn't cost much.
My local guy can also get me seal kits for less than the dealer charges.

You guys have been very helpful I thought about that today I have a small machine shop myself. But after taking the control valve apart things are not looking too good for this cylinder. The stroke valve was stuck was stuck in the bore and also pitted bad. The tractor looks like it has been sitting for a while the tack has 468000 hours and it looks like it's been broke for awhile. Thanks thanks again Destroked let me know about that cylinder please sir That's mighty nice of you to mention it

Destroked 450 · Sep 22, 2016

dannyidp

I got the cylinder apart and it looks better than I thought it would, very little rust from setting that cleaned up with some fine sand paper, the aluminum piston has some light scouring but is useable, control valve looks good and works ok. The short pipe from the control valve to the end plate has been hit on the nut but isn't broke or leaking, I took the end at the end plate loose and didn't mess with the that fitting.
Sent a email to [email protected] and we'll talk about getting it to you.

tntrosco

I got the pages copied off you need and will get them in the mail in the next couple days.

For now back to the hay field.

dannyidp · Sep 22, 2016

(quoted from post at 14:47:37 09/22/16)
dannyidp

I got the cylinder apart and it looks better than I thought it would, very little rust from setting that cleaned up with some fine sand paper, the aluminum piston has some light scouring but is useable, control valve looks good and works ok. The short pipe from the control valve to the end plate has been hit on the nut but isn't broke or leaking, I took the end at the end plate loose and didn't mess with the that fitting.
Sent a email to [email protected] and we'll talk about getting it to you.

tntrosco

I got the pages copied off you need and will get them in the mail in the next couple days.

For now back to the hay field.

I don't know what to say but wow a man of his word awesome you sir have made my day.I will email you thanks.

dannyidp · Sep 23, 2016

Hey destroked when you get a chance could you let me know about the cylinder I emailed you I don't know if you got it or if it went into spam thank you sir my email is [email protected]

Destroked 450 · Sep 23, 2016

Been mowing hay and just stopped for lunch.
Sent you a email

dannyidp · Sep 24, 2016

Hey guys well I got the bolster welded up today cast is very tricky too weld.but it welded good we will see how it holds up.I got the wore out spindles out and have welded them up and ready to turn them down to size. Usaly if the spindles have some wear I just grease um up and let em go.but from what I have read you need to get it as tight as possible because the steering is tricky to adjust if you have a lot of play.I Still have a long way to go on the tractor.little by little lol.I got to get it up and going soon.

dannyidp · Sep 25, 2016

Hey does anybody know if the main shifter is round or does it have a square cut out?

tntrosco · Sep 30, 2016

Got your pages in the mail, thanks sir,
time to play! Lol

dannyidp · Oct 2, 2016

Hello
Destroked I got your cylinder a couple of days ago I took it apart the cylinder looks good.I'm in the process of rebuilding it Thanks so much that will help a lot.
I took my power steering pump apart yesterday and deciding what to do do with it the bushings are wore pretty bad I can't find any anywhere does anybody know where to get these bushings?I can make them but quicker to purchase.

Does anybody here have a transmission laying around or any gears?Just thought I would throw that out there.thanks guys

Ford 5000 issues

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